STOP washers

I took everything off the GSA wheel and put it onto the alloys exactly as it came off the wires.

The bobbins and washers are for use with new discs as they will wear with use.
 
I took everything off the GSA wheel and put it onto the alloys exactly as it came off the wires.

The bobbins and washers are for use with new discs as they will wear with use.

Ok Bendy thanks for that. I didnt want to start changing things over and discover i needed these washers. I have a new set of PR3s im going to fit to the alloys but im a wee bit busy just now. Hopefully will get it done this next week .
 
Del stick one on each brake disc mount pillar on the inside of the brake disc

its stops the disc eroding the pillar and making your discs wobble even more

Recommended!
 
I agree with Dr Farkoff , you definitely want the black washers . I did my wheels same as yours a few months back - see pictures below - as you can see from when I laid the original fittings out the black washers were there - as DrFarkoff states they need fitted between each mount and pillar . Picture only shows 5 of them - I was cleaning the other 5 so not in picture





Cheers

John
 
Also - make sure you clean all of the paint from the wheel mount points so your brake discs are lying flat and hence running true........

 
As to cleaning paint off if youhad them painted use a sharp blade and just the paint not like someone who came asking me for help

He'd filed the paint off!!! Yup! the 4 legged chair with one shorter than the rest syndrome! :eek: (sorted by a BIG Fcuk off lathe and 2 stop discs per brake pillar! :rob )
 
Will depend if it is the old style discs, mounted with domed bolts, or the newer type discs mounted with the flat head bolts.
Old style will need the washers, new style don't.
 
The paint can cause the disc to run out so it's better removed but careful filing of the PAINT ONLY with a diamond sharpening block might give an accurate disc mounting.
If the ends are taken back to bare metal use some marine grade anti seize/corrosion protection on the bare metal. Not too much of course but with no protection, that coating will be quickly peeling off.
 
No conflicition, old style discs used various wavy washers, bobbins, stop washers and domed mounting bolts.
New style discs have the bobbins and washers rivited on to the disc and bolt straight on, using the newer flat top bolts, nothing else between disc and wheel.
The new style mounts are slightly thicker than the old ones and make the disc sit 2mm higher.
So if you fit a pair of new style discs to your wheels the discs will be a total of 4 mm further apart compared to the old type.
This means the discs will not run central in the calliper, if you are fitting them to a bike originally fitted with the old style.
The callipers are different from old style to new with 2mm being machined from the mounting points to keep the central to the disc.
Does not matter what age the wheel is.
brakesi.jpg
 
You got it, you are using the origional discs and callipers from the bike and swapping the wheel. I picked up a pair of the new style discs so both sets of my wheel have their own discs.
 
The bobbins were introduced to let the disks float and reduce risk of warping.

Early 1200GS bikes had a spate of disk warping issues.

Wheels remained the same throughout the life of the 1200GS Hexhead allowing new discs with bobbins to be retrofitted as needed.
 


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