Stopping corrosion

[andylel]

Hi all. I have found a reliable way to hold back corrosion if anyone is interested. (I know we shouldn't have to but we do). I have messed around with F365 and ACF50 on other bikes but all to no avail. In October I treated the vulnerable bits on my new R1200GSA with Bilthamber Dynax UC. I have not washed the bike since (I ride every day, all weathers) and it was covered in the proverbial. Today I covered it in SDoc 100, my cleaner of choice, left it for 15 mins and when I rinsed it off the bike was like new. All the usual bits that corrode are as shiny as a new pin. I am very comfortable it was the Dynax that did its stuff as there are slight corrosion spots on the very edges of the brake discs where I would have been stupid to put it of course. It does leave a dull finish when on the bike but comes off easily with a good degreaser. Anyway, hope this helps someone, I am a convert and won't look back for winter protection.


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[autogs]

it appears to be a wax?,did you put it on the engine?

 

[andylel]

It is and I did. It survived very well.


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[autogs]

did you apply it in thin coats or one thick one?

 

[andylel]

One or two thin coats with some thicker spots on the bolts and fasteners.

 

[autogs]

thanks it sounds good think i will give it a go

 

[topcat2006]

I use this and Dynax UB50 on my cars. I'm just finishing up what ACF50 I have left and will give it a go.

The UB50 is certainly nicer than waxoyl to apply and ends up being slightly fluid when applied so heals itself.

The UC is similar. If you can see it you've put it on to think. I use it on my alloy wheels and steel wheels to protect them over winter.

Tom

 

[Wrinkly]

Been advocating Bilt Hamber products for years. My own tests show...(Cheap wallpaper scraper, coated and left outside, one with Dynax UC one with ACF50. This is the 5th year stuck out there. The one coated in ACF50 started to rust 3yrs ago. The one coated in Dynax has only a few small areas of rust on it.).... Dynax UC to be far more effective than ACF50. The Auto Balm (polish) is also excellent.

They also make a remover for the Dynax, but it is expensive.

 

[andylel]

Been advocating Bilt Hamber products for years. My own tests show...(Cheap wallpaper scraper, coated and left outside, one with Dynax UC one with ACF50. This is the 5th year stuck out there. The one coated in ACF50 started to rust 3yrs ago. The one coated in Dynax has only a few small areas of rust on it.).... Dynax UC to be far more effective than ACF50. The Auto Balm (polish) is also excellent.

They also make a remover for the Dynax, but it is expensive.

Indeed. I use all their cleaning products on my vehicles. Excellent products, especially the Auto Wheel.

 

[chablis]

Interesting, and free delivery over £60.

http://www.bilthamber.com/

 

[topcat2006]

Opie Oils sell it too - last time I bought some I had a 15% off voucher from them.

 

[casper]

Their Surfex HD degreaser is excellent as well. I use it in my parts washer.

 

[andylel]

Their Surfex HD degreaser is excellent as well. I use it in my parts washer.

That's what I use for removing the DynaxUC when necessary. Good stuff.

 

[Hamslay]

Hey chaps

I just wanted to bring this thread back to life as the gritters are now out and it's time to protect the bikes again.

I've always sprayed ACF50 with a Bosch paint sprayer and then squirted the bike with FS365 after a ride and a rinse. It's done the job, but does leave the bike looking cack for 5 months.

As a fan of Bilt Hamber stuff, this year I took the plunge and ordered a can of Dynax UC with the intention of waxing the bikes with the Dynax first, and then spraying ACF50. However, I got an email back from Pete Hamber saying:

"I wouldn't do that - you'll degrade the UC - try them side-by-side. The UC will pick up less dirt too. Any oily product will soften the film and degrade the effectiveness."

So I'm not sure what I'll you use now, the mucky but effective ACF50 or the new kid on the block, Dynax UC.

But for anyone else tempted to go down the Dynax route, don't use ACF50 or FS365 on the same areas.

 

[Paul Wakefield]

I was also advised by All Year Biker not to mix ACF50 and FS365

 

[sk8mutie]

I bought a can of Dynac UC a few weeks ago to and put a little on my GS. Trading it in for the Adv and will be taking to tin with me to the dealership today to get them to apply it if they haven't already ACFd it at my request.
Definitely looks like it'll do a good job. Very similar to Boeshield T-9, but a much bigger can for the same money.


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[sven]

I don't like the way the Dynax melts on the engine and then grit and dirt sticks to it. It's OK for other parts though

 

[Hamslay]

I don't like the way the Dynax melts on the engine and then grit and dirt sticks to it. It's OK for other parts though

So what do you use for the engine, Sven? It seems that most of the corrosion issues people report relate to the engine paint. Are you saying it's a simple choice of crud stuck to ACF50 or crud stuck to Dynax UC?

 

[Engineer]

I drown the engine paintwork in FS365 after each weekly wash, if the FS365 gets washed off by wet roads or rain I re-apply it. I hand brush ACF50 onto fasteners and other vulnerable small areas.

 

[GSAdvKnight]

Same for me Engineer. After each wet trip or any time when salt is about its a visit to local jet wash followed by drowning in FS365 on return home. Instructions on FS365 suggest regular use and I even carry a litre in pannier for spraying mid trip.