Stripped Pivot Bolt.

[Bikergary]

Hi Guys....

I have a very creaking R1150GSA, all the bears have been changed except for the Swingarm (Bike done 140k, all year riding and rear Swing Arm, pivot never changed).
BMW said they couldn't get the bolt out ( this is a while back) and there was a risk of stripping the thread., anyway now I have a garage to work in I've had a go....

Even with lots of heat the bolt didn't budge, so kept heating..... unfortunatly instead of the bolt turning, the hex inside of the bolt stripped instead...
Hopefully picture attached.

Question is now, what are my options?

 

[cookie]

I'd weld a nut to it and try and get it out while it's still hot.

You could try beating an oversize torx bit into the rounded hole, but it sounds like the bolt is in pretty tight.

 

[Massive Lee]

The pin is aluminum. You may want to cut a section of an hexagonal aluminum rod. While welding, the heat will soften the Loctite.

[/IMG]

If you don't want to go this far yet, you can hammer in a 1/2" drive Torx bit and use an impact gun to remove the pin.

Or you can use an extractor. Drill a hole and torque the extractor.

And please, don't use Loctite on those pins...

 

[cookie]

the pivot pin is steel. loctited in at the factory.

 

[DrFarkoff]

the pivot pin is steel. loctited in at the factory.

Sorry Cookie its not Its Dural Alloy that's why the bastardin things round out

I've had this loads through the years and its a total cluster fuck! Yesterday I hit myself fucking hard in the bake trying to get one of these cunting hoofwanking bastardin pins out of my own 1200GS

Get a Thin "Stainless" cutting disc in a 4 inch Grinder and go buy some De Walt Bullet Drills 4 6 8 and 10 mm They are a total asset in a garage and Before I start one of these again I'll make sure these are at hand They may cost you £15 but the way they glide through the alloy is a joy

VERY carefully and slowly cut half the head off the Pivot Pin

Then when you can clearly see the definition of the circle of the out side edge of the pin and the gearbox starting drilling in perpendicular to the surface and working your way across so you basically split the pin in half and relieve the pressure of corrosion from the inner end which NEVER ever can get cleaned

this was my first effort at this method a while back but it worked and the bike is back home and happily doing miles ** I was about a mm too close to the box with the cutting disc

You can see a hole about centre that's where the dormer drill bit broke off!!

N.B. Do NOT hammer anything in to the hole IN this instance, All you are doing is expanding the pin even further and making it tighter and tighter

Please believe me I have been doing this for years and the Safest Way is to drill and split the pin across the Surface I cut half the head off because I didn;t know where the threads started and I did not want to drill through the gearbox outside of the pin area

 

[DrFarkoff]

Oh this is another Doosey one

The Debris left after all 4 pins were clean fucking seized on another bike

Yep that is a Split half inch to 10mm bit adapter

and to the right that big circle with the funny shaped hole in the middle ??

That's the Inner pivot pin adjuster off an an R1150GS and that's how I got it Luckily the big nut was seized on damn tight with corrosion and it let me get the pin out

The funny shape should be a 12mm Hexagon

 

[Bikergary]

I'd weld a nut to it and try and get it out while it's still hot.

You could try beating an oversize torx bit into the rounded hole, but it sounds like the bolt is in pretty tight.

I dnont have a welder (it's on the list of things to get and do) but it is something I've considered but I know Welding Alloy isn't easy
And yes was thinking of going the "knock an over size Torx into it" method, only I haven't got one that size.... possibly thannkfully.

 

[Bikergary]

The pin is aluminum. You may want to cut a section of an hexagonal aluminum rod. While welding, the heat will soften the Loctite.

[/IMG]

If you don't want to go this far yet, you can hammer in a 1/2" drive Torx bit and use an impact gun to remove the pin.

Or you can use an extractor. Drill a hole and torque the extractor.

And please, don't use Loctite on those pins...

the Extractors is something I was seriously considering as I think my only option was drilling...... very carfully.... as I dont want to damage the gearbox thread. but wanted to check with other before i go any further.

Oh and I wont be using Loctite

 

[Bikergary]

Sorry Cookie its not Its Dural Alloy that's why the bastardin things round out

I've had this loads through the years and its a total cluster fuck! Yesterday I hit myself fucking hard in the bake trying to get one of these cunting hoofwanking bastardin pins out of my own 1200GS

Get a Thin "Stainless" cutting disc in a 4 inch Grinder and go buy some De Walt Bullet Drills 4 6 8 and 10 mm They are a total asset in a garage and Before I start one of these again I'll make sure these are at hand They may cost you £15 but the way they glide through the alloy is a joy

VERY carefully and slowly cut half the head off the Pivot Pin

Then when you can clearly see the definition of the circle of the out side edge of the pin and the gearbox starting drilling in perpendicular to the surface and working your way across so you basically split the pin in half and relieve the pressure of corrosion from the inner end which NEVER ever can get cleaned

this was my first effort at this method a while back but it worked and the bike is back home and happily doing miles ** I was about a mm too close to the box with the cutting disc

You can see a hole about centre that's where the dormer drill bit broke off!!

N.B. Do NOT hammer anything in to the hole IN this instance, All you are doing is expanding the pin even further and making it tighter and tighter

Please believe me I have been doing this for years and the Safest Way is to drill and split the pin across the Surface I cut half the head off because I didn;t know where the threads started and I did not want to drill through the gearbox outside of the pin area

Thats an idea... I bought another set of pins so I know exactly what I was dealing with, I was also considering taking the head off completly and knocking in the edges of the pin... dont think I need to drill all the way through... or do I?

 

[cookie]

Dr Farkoff. I bow to your superior knowledge.

I must have been lucky, having never come across a totally seized pivot bolt.

 

[Captain Black]

F F F F F kinel ..

I won't sleep tonight looking at this.

 

[hutchy]

Did the same on mine last year

Fkd the swing arm trying to get it out

In the end I salvaged the FD thankfully and got a used swing arm for £60

New pivot bolt and bearings job done

As some one said a cluster fuck

Edit: jut to explain, after I fkd it I stepped away from the tools and got a proper chap to fix the thing.

Will never touch that pivot bolt again unless I really have too!



Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

[DrFarkoff]

Dr Farkoff. I bow to your superior knowledge.

I must have been lucky, having never come across a totally seized pivot bolt.

No bowing needed Cookie Sir!

Mind you the sparkles and colours if a MIG welder or something went near it would have been very pretty (i think)

I wish I had some of your luck but I think I have used a shedload of it up over the years getting some of these fucking things back together!

 

[spanner monkey]

I personally would avoid using easy outs on this type of thing, you'll just get them stuck and probably snap them off which leaves a piece of Fookin hard steel that you can't drill out.
Dr farkoff has defo got the best method here, it's not going anywhere until you relieve the pressure that a bit of corrosion can create.

 

[mikeyboy]

I don't know your abilities or the level of equipment you have available to you,but this would be my approach,I would centre drill the pivot then open it up in steps til I was just under the size of the pivot thread,by this time it will have moved and I would collapse the remaining pivot.
Then clean the threads with a tap.
Eazyouts are for bodgers don't even think about using them

 

[Slipperyeel]

I don't know your abilities or the level of equipment you have available to you,but this would be my approach,I would centre drill the pivot then open it up in steps til I was just under the size of the pivot thread,by this time it will have moved and I would collapse the remaining pivot.
Then clean the threads with a tap.
Eazyouts are for bodgers don't even think about using them

That's the way I'd be inclined to tackle it too

But good job Mr Farkoff. I'll be keeping this in mind.


Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

[mikeyboy]

I have about 20 sets of 1150 casings if you fuck it up

 

[Mac Henderson]

Oh goody, something else to worry about on my 1150!

I'm with mikeyboy; Easyouts general cause more probkems than they solve and should be thrown in the same bin as the adjustable spanners!

 

[Hay Ewe]

Fark!

I am wanting to pull my paralever sometime to give the drive train a check and service
Hopefully our road conditions here in Aus haven't caused corrosion build up.
I think I reinstalled with Loctite 243 when I did the bearings years ago......

 

[a2zworks]

Check this video out before doing this job every one.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI

Chris was a BMW mechanic and explains why you should not use Locktite and also to torque adjustable pin to 10Nm instead of 7Nm.