Stupid generic question

[electric_monk]

A friend has asked me what sort of drill bit would you use to drill into plastic, he is attaching a beak to his 1150. I know what i would use if it was my own bike, but i'm known for bouts of stupidity and don't wish to be responsible for damage to sometone else's bike.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Any one of the correct diameter will do although it's easier with a small size one to centre up and keep the centre spot rather than a big one wandering all over the place

An old used one is better than a brand new one as the new ones get a real bite and try and screw into the plastic sometimes with detrimental results

A friend has asked me what sort of drill bit would you use to drill into plastic, he is attaching a beak to his 1150. I know what i would use if it was my own bike, but i'm known for bouts of stupidity and don't wish to be responsible for damage to sometone else's bike.

 

[cookie]

a sharp one, carefully guided.

edit: actually, DrFarkoff is probably right about a sharp drill getting a bit snatchy, but a blunt one will start melting the plastic.

 

[(RIP) maverick]

So basically a half sharp half worn one

For normal numberplate drilling I use steel drill bit (used bit) and drill at a slow speed stopping at intervals.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Oi!! This is the airhead section. Well have no talk about these new dangled machines in here thank you

 

[Kenny]

Don't worry Rob, I'm keeping a file on these people

This is a classic 1200 section posting anyway

 

[Bryn]

Stop leading him along... a wood bit with a hammer drill is by far the neatest solution

 

[electric_monk]

Well that clears that one up........

 

[rce]

A cone cutter

 

[John Roberts]

A cone cutter

I could be completely wrong here, but looking at that, I can't help wondering if it might have a tedency to pull itself into the hole once it penetrates and end up with a far larger hole than intended.

Apologies if I'm wrong, but had to say it.

 

[rce]

I have the more stepped version and for cutting plastic it is absolutely brilliant, mine are more like this http://www.dropshiponline.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2271

Makes a very neat hole and can be used carefully to make a nice chamfer using the next step (without letting it actually cut a hole).

Used on my F650GS & wifes G650GS to mount DIN sockets in the plastic panels.

Because the cone cutter doesn't have fluting like a drill it doesn't pull itself into the plastic, so is more controllable and leaves a much better hole finish.

 

[John Roberts]

I have the more stepped version and for cutting plastic it is absolutely brilliant, mine are more like this http://www.dropshiponline.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2271

Makes a very neat hole and can be used carefully to make a nice chamfer using the next step (without letting it actually cut a hole).

Used on my F650GS & wifes G650GS to mount DIN sockets in the plastic panels.

Fair enough: The jury shall disregard that last remark. Apologies.

 

[how much]

for drilling holes in plastic you should use a "backed off" normal twist drill.

this will prevent the drill bit grabbing and or shattering the plastic and it will cut neat accurate holes in plastic of most types.

to back a drill off...

you need to be an engineer/toolmaker/profesional model maker etc. like me



hm

 

[Ogmios]

A friend has asked me ...

Yeah,
like i've never heard that one before.

 

[Rob Farmer]

A cone cutter

He only needs to put a 6mm hole through the mudguard.

Just use a drill bit that isn't brand new and it should be fine. If your crap with a drill put a bit of insulation tape on there to stop the drill be skidding.

 

[Rob Farmer]

to back a drill off...

you need to be an engineer/toolmaker/profesional model maker etc. like me

Spent ages during the first year of my apprenticeship learning how to sharpen and dress drill bits by hand. Funny how it stays with you despite it being years ago?