Suspension noisey
- Thread starter Santa-2512
- Start date
NicD
Registered user
One thing I can't get my head around is why BMW fitted a non-rebuildable shock to an adventure bike that is meant to do big miles and offroad (which works the shock hard). The Showa unit is pretty good, but shock manufacturers spec a service/rebuild in 20k miles or less, so it makes no sense to me to fit a bike that should be doing 4x that with a unit that will be need to be rebuilt in less than half that time.
The shock is rebuildable, just not by BMW......
They prefer you to sell a kidney and buy a replacement.
They prefer you to sell a kidney and buy a replacement.
NicD
Registered user
It is a non-rebuildable unit. See details here if interested: https://www.racetech.com/page/title/SPNV Installation
It can be modified to allow it to have a re-gas, but it is worth reading the caveats in Race Tech's guide about having to tap a flat surface and the requirement for a good seal - it's 210 psi.
Why BMW fitted a non-rebuildable unit remains beyond me. Really stoopid
It can be modified to allow it to have a re-gas, but it is worth reading the caveats in Race Tech's guide about having to tap a flat surface and the requirement for a good seal - it's 210 psi.
Why BMW fitted a non-rebuildable unit remains beyond me. Really stoopid
Front jacked up and abused 
No audible clonks or clicks or play felt
The ball joint boot was ok and it turns from side to side with no obvious problems
Look like it is the back then ...
How hard is it to the the bugger off and do i need to replace the bolts on refitting?
No audible clonks or clicks or play felt
The ball joint boot was ok and it turns from side to side with no obvious problems
Look like it is the back then ...
How hard is it to the the bugger off and do i need to replace the bolts on refitting?
Rear shock is easy to do, just a bolt top and bottom unless ESA (which just needs unplugging).
Use heat on the lower swing arm casting to soften the Loctite.
Bolts are not stretch so can be reused. Keep them separate, don't mix the bolts. The lower bolt has a different pitch IIRC and if you put the top bolt in the swing arm hole it will chew up the threads and seize, possibly scrapping the swing arm. I felt mine seizing on tightening, stopped and removed, retapped the casting and got away with it after realising my mistake.
When refitting, there is a steel sleeved bush in the lower swing arm casting that can close up the 'eye' of the shock mount, meaning you can't get the shock back in. I had to use an oversized socket as a cup and nut/bolt to draw the sleeve back into the casting to provide enough clearance when refitting.
Check your swing arm bearings, these commonly corrode and wear as they are not fully sealed. Easy enough to replace with the swing arm out.
Also grab the final drive with the rear wheel airborne and try to twist it sideways at the hinged joint. The trunnion and needle rollers can wear allowing play in the FD to swing arm joint and wheel misalignment.
As an aside, the knocking you heard/felt could possibly be your brake pads rattling about in the calipers. I've had weird noises and knocks from both the front and rear pads on my bike in the past. In Riva Del Garda I had convinced myself that my driveshaft was shot and I couldn't ride it home from Italy. Close inspection found the rear pads were bouncing in the caliper casting as the spring shim above them had broken.
Use heat on the lower swing arm casting to soften the Loctite.
Bolts are not stretch so can be reused. Keep them separate, don't mix the bolts. The lower bolt has a different pitch IIRC and if you put the top bolt in the swing arm hole it will chew up the threads and seize, possibly scrapping the swing arm. I felt mine seizing on tightening, stopped and removed, retapped the casting and got away with it after realising my mistake.
When refitting, there is a steel sleeved bush in the lower swing arm casting that can close up the 'eye' of the shock mount, meaning you can't get the shock back in. I had to use an oversized socket as a cup and nut/bolt to draw the sleeve back into the casting to provide enough clearance when refitting.
Check your swing arm bearings, these commonly corrode and wear as they are not fully sealed. Easy enough to replace with the swing arm out.
Also grab the final drive with the rear wheel airborne and try to twist it sideways at the hinged joint. The trunnion and needle rollers can wear allowing play in the FD to swing arm joint and wheel misalignment.
As an aside, the knocking you heard/felt could possibly be your brake pads rattling about in the calipers. I've had weird noises and knocks from both the front and rear pads on my bike in the past. In Riva Del Garda I had convinced myself that my driveshaft was shot and I couldn't ride it home from Italy. Close inspection found the rear pads were bouncing in the caliper casting as the spring shim above them had broken.
Cheers
Ive got a week off at the end of the month i'll see if i can get it looked at then
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