Tail Box (Replacing Pillion seat)

[TheJoker]

These nice German people do one for the 1100/1150's there range of parts for the 1200 is growing shouldnt be to long before they come up with something.

http://www.boxer-design.de/en/soziusboxee.htm

Stef, I've seen that one, and I don't really like it, but I guess that's the thing that comes closes to what I'm looking for.

I don't like the Boxer-Design one because it looks a bit too much "street", I'd like mine to look rough and durable, kinda like the huge Touratech panniers or the Jesse Luggage system.

But, yup, on these lines

 

[TheJoker]

Of course being a tight git and never one to buy what you can make ive started making one myself for my 1100, using an old seat cowl from an XBR500

Splendid! Did you ever finish it or what's the status?

XBR500 you say... Check!

 

[TerryM]

Aluminium "glue"

Guys,

Glad to see that I'm not the only one thinking about this!

Using the pillion seat mounting kit as a start would probably be the best solution. Then cut some nice aluminium into shape.

Anyone here know if there's any bonding product available for bonding aluminium,... available to us mortal consumers that is... As I've never been keen on pop-riverts..

Also, I was thinking that it would be nice to have a handle and some 2nd lock, so that you can either pull the whole box off the bike, or open it up on the bike. We don't want to sprinkle our gadgets all around the floor do we!

And yes, you're right about that it should be fairly low, we really don't want to do that hopping around like Charley did (good fella!).

Keep the ideas coming!

Most bonding agents have a problem with "peel mode". A good solution would be to drill for pop rivets and apply a very thin coat of two part epoxy(araldite) in stripes(allows for dispersal and stops the air bubbles ruining the bond) to the roughened surfaces immediately before riveting. and add some weight to ensure good contact .

3M do some great structural adhesives but they are expensive and not necessary for this application.

 

[TheJoker]

Re: Aluminium "glue"

Most bonding agents have a problem with "peel mode". A good solution would be to drill for pop rivets and apply a very thin coat of two part epoxy(araldite) in stripes(allows for dispersal and stops the air bubbles ruining the bond) to the roughened surfaces immediately before riveting. and add some weight to ensure good contact .

3M do some great structural adhesives but they are expensive and not necessary for this application.

Thanks for that TerryM!

I guess my reason for not liking pop-riverts is the ugly protruding bit that's left behind at the inside. Also, they're not water-tight.



Maybe I just should go out n buy a TIG welder, a book and tons of aluminium and start learning...

 

[Jockser]

Guys - like the way this thread is going !

Purely by coincidence I was playing around last nite trying to work out the best way to mount my Givi top box to my new 12GS (collected Tue !! ) - with/without pillion seat ? with/without tail rack ? but nothing really worked.

As i'm not much on visualising methods of construction or finished product i'll leave the hard work to you guys and hopefully copy the results !!

 

[Mouse]

Well I just ordered the top box mounting kit (as described by the Monkey) - £16 + VAT. I think TerryM is right and it should be possible to do something with parts of it. It should arrive in the next day or so, so I'll report back when I've had a play

 

[Russ]

I like the idea, maybe even diversify it into two versions.

A smaller 'stash box' thing along the lines of the Boxer-design thing, with a lockable lid, so as to stash the basics like phone, keys and wallet if you are going out for a sunday blat.

Then maybe a second version that is slightly taller and fills the space giving more room for bulkier items. The seat pad on the boxer-design item could then maybe become a pull out carry handle for easy lifting, and the whole unit could be made expandable upwards (like and oxford tank bag or tailbag), using material for the flexible expansion and some form of latching inside to give rigidity to the expanded material

I'll sketch my ideas if you wish, and add it to the smelting pot.

I think this will have to be made from some form of plastic though, those jesse 'tin boxes' look rather errrmmm...utilitarian shall we say

 

[Deleted account W]

I use an old magnetic tank bag that fits the space perfectly..

 

[Russ]

I use an old magnetic tank bag that fits the space perfectly..

As do I, but the tank bag is not neatly lockable to a) the bike and b)itself

 

[TheJoker]

I like the idea, maybe even diversify it into two versions.

... snip....

I'll sketch my ideas if you wish, and add it to the smelting pot.

Russ, I think you might be overcomplicating it for version one, but don't let me stop your inspiration. I think you're righth tho.
Two verisons or an expandable version would be cool.

You gave me the idea that maybe the rear of the thing could be hinged, and not only to open it up, but it could then be closed in different angles.

Say, from flat to maybe 20 degrees up? This would give you room to put larger things up front,...

Just another idea into the pot

Please post your ideas!



Mouse, I'm eagerly await the result of your artistry!!!

 

[Tim Cullis]

Well I just ordered the top box mounting kit (as described by the Monkey) - £16 + VAT.

The instructions for the mounting kit are part of the top box instructions, which were not passed on to me when the box was fitted by the dealer. So make sure you get photocopies of the relevant pages from the dealer.

Tim

 

[GSmonkey]

I ordered the mouting kit separately and didn't get any instructions. Few minutes scratching your head and it soon becomes apparent how it fits together.

 

[Swooper]

I use an old magnetic tank bag that fits the space perfectly..

Strines Inn?

 

[TerryM]

Re: Re: Aluminium "glue"

Thanks for that TerryM!

I guess my reason for not liking pop-riverts is the ugly protruding bit that's left behind at the inside. Also, they're not water-tight.



Maybe I just should go out n buy a TIG welder, a book and tons of aluminium and start learning...

Joker, are you thinking of going into the GS accessory business?

The good thing about epoxy is that you dip the pop rivets in it before pulling them and the water has no path. One nice alternative is what the Yanks call "RIVNUTS" which are a short tube internally threaded in sizes from about M3 or M4 up. They are pulled just like pop rivets but attached to just one side(sheet) of the two to be attached by conventional screwed fasteners.

But the BMW box relocation kit has brass threaded inserts in the plastic double hooked plate and the spike also is threaded. Looking at it the plastic plate may need a bit chopped off and filed tidy and the spike thread is too short to attach to a flat plate due to the underseat contours, so one of those long hex barrel nuts maybe usefull to extend it and provide a solid attachment.

Rigidity will be an issue for the base plate as it will wobble like a drum skin if only thin(even 3mm) sheet aluminium alloy is used.Then it will distort and the case will fall off.

Edge and/or cross bracing and some nice rubber buffers which are a neat fit between the base plate and underseat area would likely do the job. The really elegant solution would be to go to your friendly local heating and ventilating engineers who do lots of thin sheet metal. They could make 3mm alloy very rigid by using a "beader"to put a half round channel into it along the edges and a cross pattern from corner to corner. That would be very strong and light as no extra material is added.

On the other hand you just might find a suitably sized very shallow aluminium baking tray with a rolled edge?

But get the TIG anyway so I can come and play with it!

Terry

 

[birdseye]

If you want to use pop rivets, then go down to your yacht chandler and get the nimonic rivets that are used for attaching fittings to boat masts. These will not give way - mind you, you need a decent rivet gun to be able to pull them.

Bed them down in Duralac, and you will get not dissimilar metal corrosion for a long time.

 

[Deleted account W]

Strines Inn?

 

[Russ]

Sketches as promised

Option 1 is a small 'stash box' which is about the size of the current pillion seat, and ideal for storing small items for a 'sunday blat' (eg. Wallet, phone, keys and maybe a pair of waterproofs).

Option 1 Diagram

Option 2 is a 'tank bag sized' version of Option 1, it is maybe 6 to 9 inches tall(?), which can be expanded in the same way as the BMW panniers and topbox (with the plastic forming the expansion layer) or using a material to act as the expansion material, it will expand to between 7 and 11 inches(?). The rear backrest doubles as a carry handle.

Option 2 Diagram

 

[strucko]

This might sound stupid............ but have you thought about using a kind of cash box?..... like the ones you see car booters using..... they can be got in allsorts of colours and sizes..
Just thinking about keeping the costs down.......and they are lockable...... take out the plastic tray and line it with ......... something like thin foam or carpet etc

 

[TheJoker]

This might sound stupid............ but have you thought about using a kind of cash box?..... like the ones you see car booters using..... they can be got in allsorts of colours and sizes..
Just thinking about keeping the costs down.......and they are lockable...... take out the plastic tray and line it with ......... something like thin foam or carpet etc

Aaahaaaa!!!

I was looking at a CD folder at Homebase a few weeks back, had the kind of GS-look, but it was too flimsy and too shallow for my liking (but quite cheap).

A cashbox must be a lot sturdier... Must investigate - Get my coat, Dr Watson!

Thanks for the tip!

 

[GSmonkey]

If you're feeling lazy, Jesse have already gone part of the way with a mounting plate in place of the pillion seat. Its $100 and looks as though it could be cut down so the luggage rack could be fitted as well. This would then form the base of the box.