Telelever ball joint boot

JMC

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Richmond, North Yorkshire
I’ve tried doing a search on here but can’t find anything.
My telelever ball joint boot is split on my 2010 GS, I’m told the boots aren’t available from BMW but are from other sources, if I can get one is it a big job to replace and what is involved?
I’ve done some research with a varying degree of complexity involved.
 
I’ve tried doing a search on here but can’t find anything.
My telelever ball joint boot is split on my 2010 GS, I’m told the boots aren’t available from BMW but are from other sources, if I can get one is it a big job to replace and what is involved?
I’ve done some research with a varying degree of complexity involved.

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=35&Ct=KA&SbCt=BA_15_35_KA_08


Easy job to someone who is used to doing their own repairs and can use spanners/tools.

As a guide.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iJmeP-F5qX8" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Disconnect ball joint
Clean out crap
Slather in some new grease
Fit new boot
Reconnect ball joint.

Repeat in a few months time with a new ball joint when grit and grime has now completely fekked the old one.
 
Thanks Uturn Tony, certainly looks do able and no need to drop forks or drain brake fluid, I haven’t used the motorworks link as I’ve got a boot in the post heading my way. Thanks again
 
The plot thickens, just snapped my Allen socket trying to overcome the BMW version of Loctite, I know ideally it should be heated up to approx 120 deg F but it is too near to the brake line and ABS cable, even in my opinion using a heat shield. Anyone any idea’s of what else I can try?
 
The plot thickens, just snapped my Allen socket trying to overcome the BMW version of Loctite, I know ideally it should be heated up to approx 120 deg F but it is too near to the brake line and ABS cable, even in my opinion using a heat shield. Anyone any idea’s of what else I can try?

try a plumbing heat mat to protect the brake lines
 
Might be a better option than my sheet of aluminium, so a replacement Allen socket 1st then a trip to ScrewFix for a heat mat, more fun than trying to fix the lawn mower&#55357;&#56832;
 
The plot thickens, just snapped my Allen socket trying to overcome the BMW version of Loctite, I know ideally it should be heated up to approx 120 deg F but it is too near to the brake line and ABS cable, even in my opinion using a heat shield. Anyone any idea’s of what else I can try?

I did mine last year I used my missis hair dryer directly on the nut It worked fine. Use the Allen to hold the ball joint still and the spanner to turn the nut not the other way around. I put the ratchet against the fork with some rags and applied pressure to the spanner think i may have added another ring spanner onto the open ended spanner to get more leverage.
 
You can get heat protection pads from a plumber merchants. But not using a blow lamp I used tin foil to direct heat gun heat away from brake lines etc.

Loosening the retaining nut will "break" the thread lock, then use the Allen key to stop the ball joint spindle spinning while you unscrew the nut.
 
All done, with a few additions to my tool box. Apart from this and exhaust flapper valve everything has been done at original dealers thinking it would provide a better history but dealership servicing comes at a price, I think home servicing or independent dealer/workshop could be the future. Thanks everyone for your valuable inputs.
 


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