That didn’t go terribly well!

How are worn brake pads/discs or fork seals = defects after 16,000 miles? Those are normal wear'n'tear items, and if the OP has never replaced/serviced them, then it's entirely reasonable for them to be worn and needing replacing. This would be true for ANY motorbike from ANY brand.

Some owners need to have a reality check if they think a vehicle that is used over 16,000 miles will not have consumables that need replacing.

Agree on the brake pads but not on a disc unless the pads were allowed to wear down to the metal. 16k miles? That's nothing for a high end bike and I wouldn't be expecting to replace fork seals at this mileage.

BMW bikes are high end, and should be expected to perform and last accordingly.
 
My bike is a Sept 2013 TE. I’ve no issues with the dealers position as neither he nor I knew of the issues beyond corrosion on the cylinder heads.

The deal was for a straight swap for the K at £8,140 which is about right as ‘book’ value for mine is £7,400 as a part ex.

The salesman told me that trade dealers were bidding £6,800 and as such it needed to be a bike they could retail themselves. Given the cost of correction to the point where it met BMW approved used standard on resale there wouldn’t be enough in it for them to do the deal.

I hadn’t checked the pads and it’s nearly 5k miles since the last service and change so I guess I’m not surprised they are worn.

Haven’t managed to get through to my local dealer about the warranty issues as yet - I’ll update you when I do!

If the issues are covered under warranty then I’m happy. After reflecting overnight I won’t be going back for the K. I love the GS but just feel the need for more power, better brakes and smoother running - any ideas?

Try a KTM
 
Agree with above, and even the break pads must have had some hard wear, with all that torque and generally ridden at a good pace they should last longer than that.
Another Reason I use V Power or 97 Octane helps with exhaust valves jamming etc. but still disappointing that it is an issue at such a low milage
 
All the time, torch down the calipers and run your fingers over the disc faces & check the bolts are tight

Just replaced front and rear wheel bearings in my bike tonight, slight play detected when I washed it on Monday

Only did them 3-4 months ago, gone for (food standard) stainless bearings this time - all bearings and seals were only £40 from a specialist in town

Whilst I was doing it, checked the pads (new before last weekend) and discs too - just to make all was seated properly and tight

Also checked forks etc

Doesn't take much time & effort, but on 2 wheels ................checking stuff may save your life

Food standard stainless steel bearings are not that good an idea as packed with Shite food grade grease, stainless bearings are usually only used in applications where regularly immersed in water / jet cleaned (food processing halls) they are not very durable. Best to stick with good quality standard bearings, use waterproof grease if necessary but likely you Fooked the seals while fitting previously? its easy to do if you are not using a puka bearing mounting kit
 
All the time, torch down the calipers and run your fingers over the disc faces & check the bolts are tight

Just replaced front and rear wheel bearings in my bike tonight, slight play detected when I washed it on Monday

Only did them 3-4 months ago, gone for (food standard) stainless bearings this time - all bearings and seals were only £40 from a specialist in town

Whilst I was doing it, checked the pads (new before last weekend) and discs too - just to make all was seated properly and tight

Also checked forks etc

Doesn't take much time & effort, but on 2 wheels ................checking stuff may save your life

Must have been poor quality bearings to have lasted only 3-4 months unless you are doing mega mileage per month.
I give mine a good look over before a ride but I don't go to the extremes of checking tightness of bolts / nuts etc.

I'm pretty confident in my own maintenance skill set, that if I fitted pads last week I wouldn't be giving them another look for a few thousand miles. It's what ever you feel safe with I suppose.
How do you go on with a car then, not bother with the checks cos' its got 4 wheels?
 
Food standard stainless steel bearings are not that good an idea as packed with Shite food grade grease, stainless bearings are usually only used in applications where regularly immersed in water / jet cleaned (food processing halls) they are not very durable. Best to stick with good quality standard bearings, use waterproof grease if necessary but likely you Fooked the seals while fitting previously? its easy to do if you are not using a puka bearing mounting kit

We will see
I use them on my Trials bikes and these are ridden in shite and rivers all the while and pressure washed
They seem to last longer
 
We will see
I use them on my Trials bikes and these are ridden in shite and rivers all the while and pressure washed
They seem to last longer

Stainless steel, by nature wears quicker than specialist bearing steel its a fact. I do use stainless steel bearings on my Mountain bikes pivot bearings purely because the protection seals are so shite & the water gets in / stays in. This is not normally the case with a road bike unless the lip seals are damaged or the wrong bearing seals are specified were you using 2ZZ or 2RS? what clearance? C3 is standard for this application, C5 may well appear 'loose' by spec
 
2RS, seals going in now are brand new

Bike spends its life in mud and shite + pressure washers, just like your MTB
 
Sound odd...not common for a dealer to reject a bike having verbally 'done the deal' I would at the very least expected a re-negotiation.

From what I understand most dealers and the industry in general is 'almost' on its knees.

Verbal descriptions or photos 'never' tell the full story!
 
We will see
I use them on my Trials bikes and these are ridden in shite and rivers all the while and pressure washed
They seem to last longer

Stainless bearings in your MTB or trials bike will last longer than on your GS. ... the race is moving a damn site slower....

2RS .. rubber seal on the face .. keeps out the majority of dust and water versus a plain bearing..
 
My bike is a Sept 2013 TE. I’ve no issues with the dealers position as neither he nor I knew of the issues beyond corrosion on the cylinder heads.

The deal was for a straight swap for the K at £8,140 which is about right as ‘book’ value for mine is £7,400 as a part ex.

The salesman told me that trade dealers were bidding £6,800 and as such it needed to be a bike they could retail themselves. Given the cost of correction to the point where it met BMW approved used standard on resale there wouldn’t be enough in it for them to do the deal.

I hadn’t checked the pads and it’s nearly 5k miles since the last service and change so I guess I’m not surprised they are worn.

Haven’t managed to get through to my local dealer about the warranty issues as yet - I’ll update you when I do!

If the issues are covered under warranty then I’m happy. After reflecting overnight I won’t be going back for the K. I love the GS but just feel the need for more power, better brakes and smoother running - any ideas?

Interested to know if you have had the recall collars fitted to your fork legs yet?

If not then the legs have to be removed from the bike so the replacement cost of the seal is negligible :rolleyes:
 
My bet is the bike was described, and the dealer had a prospecive sale based on the bike - & a nice profit to boot

When they saw the bike , the profit margin they had was either so small or non exsistant they declined

Now to me a profit is a profit, whether it's £100 or £1000

Dealers must either be flush with SH bikes, or so much in the black they can afford to turn down a sale :)

Your right to an extent. Dealer would have to provide warranty on 2 bikes instead of 1. Not viable. JJH
 
Interested to know if you have had the recall collars fitted to your fork legs yet?

If not then the legs have to be removed from the bike so the replacement cost of the seal is negligible :rolleyes:

I think the OP has one of the exclusive limited edition specials that don't need the collars.

The earlier ones are not part of the recall - same as mine :D
 
The exhaust valve is not covered by warranty. But mine on my RT was replaced by BMW when the bike was over two years old out of good will. The BMW fix is new headers, which is £1200. You maybe able to free it, but I couldn't free mine when I was waiting for their decision

Thats correct. Mine at 20000 was not covered by extended warranty ....an exhaust component ...however after some excellent arguing by my local dealer ,it was replaced by Good will !
 
From what I understand most dealers and the industry in general is 'almost' on its knees.

Where did you hear that? I was at my KTM dealer on Saturday, and they sold 6 bikes before lunchtime. There were 4 people collecting their 1290’s, ordered the week before.
 
Where did you hear that? I was at my KTM dealer on Saturday, and they sold 6 bikes before lunchtime. There were 4 people collecting their 1290’s, ordered the week before.

One swallow doesn't make a summer.

Common knowledge within the trade.
 
One swallow doesn't make a summer.

Common knowledge within the trade.

It's not common knowledge in any of the dealerships that I frequent

In fact. One of those very dealers has just taken on a second driver/valeter. Bought another new delivery van and employed a fourth technician :thumb2

And all this done as we sail toward winter time :clap

That doesn't strike me as an industry or dealership on it's knees :confused:
 


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