The ‘79 California Rebuild Thread

If you can prove year of manufacture, and it hasn’t been significantly modified I’d say yes.


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On reflection Mike you’ll probably struggle with that last “modified” bit if it’s one if your bikes!


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Crimp AND solder? I hope you’re doing it in that order since tinning the wire first will reduce the effectiveness of the crimp :rob
As you seem to have the correct crimp tool for the pins you are using, you could save a lot of time by not soldering - you shouldn't need to.

Teach not my mother’s mother to extract
the embryonic juices of the bird by suction.
The dear old lady can this deed enact,
regardless of the kind instruction.

Ogden Nash
:D
 
Crimp AND solder? I hope you’re doing it in that order since tinning the wire first will reduce the effectiveness of the crimp :rob
As you seem to have the correct crimp tool for the pins you are using, you could save a lot of time by not soldering - you shouldn't need to.

Teach not my mother’s mother to extract
the embryonic juices of the bird by suction.
The dear old lady can this deed enact,
regardless of the kind instruction.

Ogden Nash
:D

It’s not desirable to solder crimp on terminals, it makes the point where the solder ends prone to break due to vibration.
 
Crimp AND solder? I hope you’re doing it in that order since tinning the wire first will reduce the effectiveness of the crimp :rob
As you seem to have the correct crimp tool for the pins you are using, you could save a lot of time by not soldering - you shouldn't need to.



Ogden Nash[/I]:D

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but...

Soldering a crimp is pointless, and usually harmful. If the crimp is done correctly that is all that is needed. The pictured connector is not done properly though. The ends of the upper crimp should turn in towards the wire, not overlap on it.

Should look more like this...

ampseal-contacts-video.jpg


Also, the solder looks like a dry joint.
 
Odd isn’t it how our experiences differ.

I “grew up” working on fishing boats with grizzled old engineers working in some pretty harsh conditions.

What they taught me was the crimp is just there to hold the wire, solder everything or you’ll be doing it again, probably in the dark, probably with your life at risk.

They’re all going into connector blocks so very minimal opportunity for the cable/solder interface to vibrate in any meaningful way.

I’ll do the last 30 using Cookie’s method, let’s see what happens! It’ll be a lot quicker at least.
 
The other problem with soldering after crimping is that the insulations melts back reducing the effectiveness of the part of the crimp that is supposed to take the stress off the stripped wire.
 
The other problem with soldering after crimping is that the insulations melts back reducing the effectiveness of the part of the crimp that is supposed to take the stress off the stripped wire.

Which is why I get through metres of adhesive heat shrink ...


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I found it very frustrating doing the wiring on my Norton,I’m actually going to redo some of it. One of the problems is the quality of the connectors especially the female ones. So many were either too tight or too slack.Finding decent, consistently good ones can be a pain..........good luck!
 
I was watching one of the Bad Obsession you tube videos on the build of Binky, where they went through the reasons for and against solder and crimps, conclusion being that in any high vibration environment, then crimp every time dont use solder at all, given that they are a Motorsports company, professionals in electrical, systems for such as that is a large part of what they sell and do as a company, think I will stick with the right crimping tool and crimps over solder.
 
Well I’ve done half and half now, so let’s see what happens!


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Soldering can also heat treat the wires, making them more brittle near the crimp :D

I'm sure both sets of joints will be fine though. Probably :)

I come from an electronic wiring background of many thousands of crimps and MOD inspectors moaning about them.
 
Fair play Cookie, not disagreeing with your experience at all! I’ll do em all your way in future, it’ll be a lot quicker.


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Thread hijack:D:D
78 bike,
Registration uk 1983,
Eligible historic bike?

Good question.My Guzzi,1979 bike registered in 1980,DVLA say no even with a dating certificate.Another bloke on a Guzzi forum I am on,1979 bike registered 1981,DVLA say yes historic.
 
Good question.My Guzzi,1979 bike registered in 1980,DVLA say no even with a dating certificate.Another bloke on a Guzzi forum I am on,1979 bike registered 1981,DVLA say yes historic.

Somebody needs to get the paperwork together and try to get the Dvla to see sense. There are similar inconsistencies with all sorts of things the Dvla deal with. Apologies if you are one of them ( Dvla employee), but there are far too many civil servants who get their salary independent of how many people they piss off. I speak as someone who has been self employed for the last 33 years and really has had enough of these fecking jobsworths. Rant over and no, I’m not Att.
 
Now I’m hopefully approaching the end of the Montjuic rebuild I need to sort out the historic status. It’s not been on the road for over 3 years and I sorned it once then forgot all about it. It’s old enough to be classified as historic so avoids those tedious noise regulations but do I have to apply for historic status or just ignore it as is normally my way of treating things that I find a bit boring :nenau
 
For Cookie.

IMG_3119.JPG

Right you historic plate nerds, go play on another thread.


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