the dreaded flashing red brake warning light!!!

If you mask the LED's in the cluster in a diagonal fashion ie just the reds with some butyl, the yellow leds still light up and cycle as normal.

TBH I never needed the yellow led's Fuel & LAMPF warning on the display was more than enough info needed


Re the ABS button - i found that a gentle scrape with a razorblade removed the offending letters - far cheaper than a new button cluster

Hold off on removing the front ABS ring, as if the rear fails, it switches to the front as a backup ..

However on my chopped ABS unit it never changed to the front
 
thanks lukebarton for that great write up. do you have a photo of the new rear brake line fitted at the master cylinder end? i might opt for doing that to neaten up my own attempt.
:beerjug:
 
If you mask the LED's in the cluster in a diagonal fashion ie just the reds with some butyl, the yellow leds still light up and cycle as normal.

TBH I never needed the yellow led's Fuel & LAMPF warning on the display was more than enough info needed


Re the ABS button - i found that a gentle scrape with a razorblade removed the offending letters - far cheaper than a new button cluster

Hold off on removing the front ABS ring, as if the rear fails, it switches to the front as a backup ..

However on my chopped ABS unit it never changed to the front
I masked mine diagonally.... but the yellow still wouldnt show once the reds had come on.... was the main reason for me going the whole hog in the end.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 
thanks lukebarton for that great write up. do you have a photo of the new rear brake line fitted at the master cylinder end? i might opt for doing that to neaten up my own attempt.
:beerjug:
I do......

91b8522a0a14a2db45c1080d44623722.jpg


Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 
in the early less reliable and "unrepairable" early ABS system, its is still a linked set up and what actually stops working when it goes wrong ?

do both ends still work? in which case what happens in diagnostics if you just set it to non ABS settings?
 
I masked mine diagonally.... but the yellow still wouldnt show once the reds had come on.... was the main reason for me going the whole hog in the end.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Mine was the same, but given i had LAMPF & FUEL displayed in the Kombi, the abscence of a yellow lamp was small change

It still came on during the startup check which is what i wanted :)

Also i didn't have a motoscan app so i couldn't do anything else
 
in the early less reliable and "unrepairable" early ABS system, its is still a linked set up and what actually stops working when it goes wrong ?

do both ends still work? in which case what happens in diagnostics if you just set it to non ABS settings?
So what actually happens when attempting this is that the bike realises that there is an ABS module connected to the CAN bus and switches all the settings back to having ABS.

The other problems is the what the system operates with seperate circuits (1 for each wheel & one for each lever) mean even if you could trick it into thinking there was no ABS the brakes would still only be as "good" as they are in residual braking mode. (Which is in fact not very good at all)

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 
So what actually happens when attempting this is that the bike realises that there is an ABS module connected to the CAN bus and switches all the settings back to having ABS.

The other problems is the what the system operates with seperate circuits (1 for each wheel & one for each lever) mean even if you could trick it into thinking there was no ABS the brakes would still only be as "good" as they are in residual braking mode. (Which is in fact not very good at all)

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thanks, not sure I get all of it. residual braking?

I remember getting slated when my abs2 died and the thing was a death trap. No one agreed with me. But that first failure the brakes became useless, either end would lock up readily but it didn't slow down anymore. I had a car system do the same on any one of the 4 wheels, randomly one would lock up with little provocation under gentle braking. Both the car and the bike were back to normal when the designed in faults were repaired. But the GS went a second time. But now it was "normal" and the brakes where OK just missing the ABS.

Also confused how it would reenable itself, maybe the old set up was super strange. But you turn it off in the software on the later one and its off.
 
Well done Luke for the electrical “work around” and for posting it :thumb.
 


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