The inside of my FD

Just had a thought:hide, why cant you drill and tap the housing during bearing replacement so that you can fit a magnetic drain plug as near to the bottom of the FD unit so its easier to drain the oil and you get to catch the bits of roller bearing when it begins to fail.
Just my two penneth, I used to be a fitter but thats a while ago:mmmm

TeZ
 
TeZREX said:
Just had a thought:hide, why cant you drill and tap the housing during bearing replacement so that you can fit a magnetic drain plug as near to the bottom of the FD unit so its easier to drain the oil and you get to catch the bits of roller bearing when it begins to fail.
Just my two penneth, I used to be a fitter but thats a while ago:mmmm

TeZ
Click to expand...
The FD casing is probably too thin to drill and thread
 
Ahh thats why it hasnt been done then. Oh well it was worth a thought...

Going to have a look at a 1200GS at the weekend wish me luck....:rolleyes:

TeZ
 
TeZREX said:
Just had a thought:hide, why cant you drill and tap the housing during bearing replacement so that you can fit a magnetic drain plug as near to the bottom of the FD unit so its easier to drain the oil and you get to catch the bits of roller bearing when it begins to fail.
Just my two penneth, I used to be a fitter but thats a while ago:mmmm

TeZ
Click to expand...


The casing is about 8mm thick at the bottom from memory, that's enough to take an M6 or M8 pin which will act as the drain plug if you wanted to add one yourself. However, the BMW plug is maybe 8 or 10mm in diameter with a fine thread and, I think, a seating for an O ring that provides the seal. I doubt there's enough meat in the old-style case to accomodate the plug in the way BMW intended.
 
REAR DRIVES

REAR DRIVE REBUILDS 1200 GS

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have just replaced the big bearing in rear drive and,checked the rest over.

I had to make up a few tools ie, puller and sleeve to dismantle the bugger

Replaced seal, bearing and circlip and good as new

There must be loads of rear drives around which need rebuilding

Contact me if you need yours doing

e-mail:- [email protected]

phone:- 0191 5220217

A new one is aprox £900
 
hi Pat are you up for having a few sent to you for repair?
i have had a noise just like yours and iv come to the point where it must be the same BRG that you have replaced. is there enough alloy where the BRG sits to drill some holes in to let oil run on it?
 
Hi This is the 1st time I ever posted on the forum - but hear goes

I am in the middle of a rebuild on my R1200GSA 2010. I embarked on this as the bike had a bad oil leak which turned out to be a failed balance shaft oil leak. Things are still progressing with the bike new clutch assembly and gearbox back on.

I decided to take a look at the rear axle whilst the bike is in two halves and in particular the rear U/J on the driveshaft as I had a new d/s and rear axle at 40K replaced under warranty after I lost drive and broke down one day.

The cause was that the splines had stripped and both parts had to be replaced!

Well as I suspected the splines are badly worn (fortunately on the driveshaft U/J). Luckily the splines on the rear axle look to be intact and in good condition.

My question is whether you (or anyone reading this post) know of any UK companies that sell reconditioned units or indeed whether they would put an new yoke on my shaft as the U/Js and g/box splines are perfect?

Look forward to receiving any comments which might help me

Flopro_123
 
Flopro said:
Hi This is the 1st time I ever posted on the forum - but hear goes

I am in the middle of a rebuild on my R1200GSA 2010. I embarked on this as the bike had a bad oil leak which turned out to be a failed balance shaft oil leak. Things are still progressing with the bike new clutch assembly and gearbox back on.

I decided to take a look at the rear axle whilst the bike is in two halves and in particular the rear U/J on the driveshaft as I had a new d/s and rear axle at 40K replaced under warranty after I lost drive and broke down one day.

The cause was that the splines had stripped and both parts had to be replaced!

Well as I suspected the splines are badly worn (fortunately on the driveshaft U/J). Luckily the splines on the rear axle look to be intact and in good condition.

My question is whether you (or anyone reading this post) know of any UK companies that sell reconditioned units or indeed whether they would put an new yoke on my shaft as the U/Js and g/box splines are perfect?

Look forward to receiving any comments which might help me

Flopro_123
Click to expand...
I can do it for you,
But would need to source a usable yoke,
It would also need a new u/j as it is not possible to split and reuse them.
Mike
 
Mike rebuilt my UJ and FD. Job well done.
OP - also check your gearbox shaft end float. If it's loose the rattle in neutral will sound like a clattering cam chain.
Also check the final drive pivot bearings. They should be packed full of grease but are often running dry.


Sent via iPhone so expect strange words
 
(RIP) Proff said:
This is exactly the same problem we had in 60's /70's with Triumph Herald/ Vitesse, GT6 and Spitfire driveshafts.
The inner bearing [ball] never wore, but the bastid outer needle rollers used to disintegrate and take the shaft out, leading to great expense.
My personal remedy was to turn shaft to take a smaller inner dia and the hub to a slightly larger outer dia needle roller and make sure the Grease nipple was permanently in situ.


Modern thing of the time was all grease points had plugs and you had one nipple to be inserted in every point @12.000 miles and greased then replug and move to next one :blast:blast


One other point, I ALWAYS use this stuff for rebuilding Everthing involving engines and metal to metal bearings>>
http://www.graphogen.co.uk/

Driveshafts and engines I built over 20 years ago are still running smoothly :thumb2 thanks to that stuff :bow

Fantastic work Pat :bow I'm following this thread with delight knowing there are still "PROPER ENGINEERS" about:thumb2
Click to expand...

Ha Ha Heralds with the reverse camber lateral leaf spring. The Diff hanger bolts ran through the rear centre mount / clamp for the spring ,

And they used to seize, or strip the head off the nut due to the limited access - I spent an evening filing new flats on a rounded bolt, then

quarter turning it with a ring spanner as there was no room for a socket..

Bastard bastard part :) and dont get me started on the feckin trunions lol
 
The 1150 rear wheel bearing is similar to the old Austin Mini front wheels which lasted well and stood up to abuse. A mod for the 1150 used an angular contact bearing pretty much copying the Mini. Sadly the 1200 has a completely new design that's far more fragile.

Bikes don't generate the lateral wheel loads that a car does. BUT road bump forces are vertical regardless of the bike's lean angle. Hitting bumps while leaned over will side load the wheel bearings. These BMWs corner so well they have to be tougher on wheel bearings than lesser handling machines.

I replaced the Hardy-Spicer cross on an MG Midget propellor shaft. It had circles so not too bad a job. It did not have drillings for a grease supply, but there really wasn't enough space for the actual grease nipple so it had to make do with Rocol moly grease.
 
patzx12 said:
The conclusions I have come to so far, this is just my opinions and relates to my bikes. other peoples bikes and experiences may differ.
Download or buy the latest BMW service CD rom, make sure its the latest one. This has all the tolerances and measurments.

1) Never power wash, ever, not ever.
2) Check the rear wheel for movment side to side.
3) Spin the wheel with the brake pads backed off and not rubbing the disk. You want to be in a quiet place. There should be absolutly no noise when you spin the wheel, it would be a good idea if you have a buddy with a GS to do both at the same time this lets you compare bikes. make shure you pump up the brake again before riding.
4) Change the FD oil every 6,000 to 10,000 miles.
5) When you have the FD swung down wiggle the pinion spline, there should be no movment.
6) Do the same with the drive shaft, wiggle back and forward and check for any play in the UJ's
7) Change the RH seal when you change the oil, it's a cheap item, the how to is on the BMW CD Rom.
8) Non of the above applies to bikes in warrenty.
Click to expand...

Hi Pat, whats the right hand seal you mention in step 7?

Cheers
Mark
 
these pics are of the FD threaded ring from my 2005 GS anyone out there tell me which is correct or neither I am mid rebuild are there two o-rings one in the groove and one on the shoulder or just the one in the groove? thanks in advance Paul.
 

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