25th June 2015
At last – a good night’s sleep. I wake at 0700 feeling well rested for the first time this trip, deal with some emails and then ablute and wander downstairs for breakfast.
I spend ten minutes packing, then load everything onto the luggage trolley and wheel it out to the bike, safely ensconced under the canopy…
On the way past the front desk I swipe a 'go-bag' - that'll do for lunch...
I have booked a room tonight at the Hilton Garden Inn at Kalispell, Montana, and Doris has a four and a half hour winding roads route for me to follow.
So Chris (the builder) came around to estimate the bathroom work. I mentioned to him (thinking if he knew more work was in the offing he'd be more competitive with his quote

) that I would want to get my kitchen and dining room knocked into one room and fitted out, probably later in the year. He offered to have a look at the job, whilst he was here. I then got a kitchen designer involved and, before I knew it, Chris had quoted competitively for both jobs - and said he could complete them both in the three weeks I was away...
With the bike packed, I check the oil and tyre pressures and then set off at about 1025. It's a beautiful cloudless day, already warm, but not unpleasantly so...
Doris steers me along State Highway 27 - it's a nice road - good surface and little traffic, although it
is governed by a 55mph limit...
Most cereal crops seem to have been harvested here. It's very green...
...making a pleasant change from yesterday's parched landscape.
I take a wrong turn (misread Doris's screen) and am flagged down by Mary-Anne "call me Micky" Tee...
We chat for a couple of minutes. That is to say she speaks and I listen
I learn that she is 92 (she tells me this at least three times), her late husband Don was a gunner on B17s during the war, she has visited seven foreign countries - including England - and one of her two sons is a motorcycle cop. She's as mad as a box of frogs and absolutely delightful with it...
I tear myself away and Micky goes beetling off down the road taking her morning constitutional.
Meanwhile, back on the road...
...Doris has chosen a great route for me.
At around midday, I stop at the side of a lake and have my snaffled lunch. It's completely quiet, except for the occasional drone of a dragonfly and the intermittent tick and click of the bike's engine cooling...
Large wood-cutting chap on the front lawn of a school in Saint Maries, where I stop and fill up with petrol - and my card actually WORKS!
Onward!
From Saint Maries, Doris steers me down the St Joe River Road, which...
...as it name suggests, follows the St Joe river. It's a beautiful bit of countryside, there's enough shade to make the temperature perfect for riding...
I pass this chap on an old Honda with a Vetter fairing...
...and just enjoy the ride...
Doris turns me right onto about twelve miles of good quality gravel road...
I stop for a while to enjoy the peace and quiet...
But soon get going again - Kalispell isn't getting any closer...
We cross the river again and re-join the paved highway. It's well surfaced, virtually empty and is just a continuous stream of sweeping bends and turns - it reminds me very much of the Lo Lo Pass in Idaho...
It's an area popular with fly-fishermen and I catch sight of them once in a while - focussed completely on their pursuit...
Onward!
At about 80 miles from Saint Maries, the road leaves the river and starts to climb into the Idaho Panhandle National Forest...
I climb for miles, the air getting slightly cooler with altitude. Quite abruptly, there is a "Pavement Ends" sign on the right and this one on the left...
...and I enter a long downhill stretch on a gravel and dirt road...
It's well built and clearly well maintained, so I'm able to keep up a reasonable speed for the 20 or so miles it lasts for...
Doris then has one of her turns again. She tells me to go down this road (clearly marked Forest Loop - as well as the no unauthorised vehicle malarkey), saying it's called Tin Can Road. I just mark it as blocked and she redirects me to MT Highway 200...
Spotted this brightly coloured offering - any guesses on make/model/year?
MT 200 is a great road - just surfaced and with a speed limit of 70mph...
This chap in a huge Cadillac barge held me up for a while - lots of no-passing lines - but I eventually found a gap...
It's still not oppressively hot - I'm hoping that heading north might get me out of the worst of it over the next few days...
...but I'm feeling ready for something to eat - the Hampton Inn's cereal bar and apple can only take a chap so far...
The miles tick by, the scenery is just gorgeous...
I turn left and cross the Flathead River near Plains...
...and found these old boys sitting in the sun...
Identical twins, I reckon...
Onward!
I had forgotten how beautiful Montana is...
...and what the locals are like...
At last, Flathead Lake comes into view...
...and, in the originally named town of Lakeside...
...I stop at the Homestead Café - and notice that it has undergone some changes since I used to stop here for breakfast a few years back. It is now a bar and casino - and antique shop...
Never mind - is the food still good?
Yes
A Montana beef melt ensures I survive for the rest of the day...
I have a slow ride to Kalispell...
...and check into my room.
Great day...