The predictably seized exhaust studs

[SecretSquirrel]

Is there by chance anyone local to me (Epsom), able to help or provide encouragement as I attempt to remove some seized exhaust studs from my 1150GS?
I've read all the relevant posts and so have a variety of extractors, heat guns and welding kit. I have already been alternating between heat and WD40 and ACF50 to hopefully release them.
My last resort is the use the welding kit, as I'm not sure it's a good idea to use a MIG welder on the bike!
I'm a fairly new Tosser and haven't had the pleasure of meeting any of you chaps yet.
Plenty of available.

 

[ELIMINATOR]

Studs, from where?

You taking the header pipes off? The ones with nuts on the ends of the studs?

 

[SecretSquirrel]

I removed the header pipes a few weeks ago before I removed the gearbox.
One stud broke undoing a nut, the other nuts came off ok.
I found all the studs to be badly corroded and decided to replace them.
In the last hour, I have removed 1 stud and broken another close to the head [slap]
The stud extractor I am using is like a drill chuck. It's too big really to get properly located onto the studs. The other extractor I bought for the job is also just too large to get onto the stud [double slap]

 

[ELIMINATOR]

Essex, try doing a search for steptoe, he's the GS guru in London. Might be a good point to start, he is an independant Gs specialist.

 

[BillN]

I removed the header pipes a few weeks ago before I removed the gearbox.
One stud broke undoing a nut, the other nuts came off ok.
I found all the studs to be badly corroded and decided to replace them.
In the last hour, I have removed 1 stud and broken another close to the head [slap]
The stud extractor I am using is like a drill chuck. It's too big really to get properly located onto the studs. The other extractor I bought for the job is also just too large to get onto the stud [double slap]

Your local non franchise garage should be able to remove the broken studs if they are any good............the broken studs need losts of heat to get them out

 

[SecretSquirrel]

I know of Steptoe. He advised me about my clutch problem a while back. I've also read his excellent valve clearance post and followed it closely last night while doing my own.
I also know he's a busy man and may prefer to be left in peace
Formally of Essex, now residing in Epsom, Surrey.

 

[billynomates]

Theres also some spray that freezes the metal so shrinking it in the thread a motor mechanic mate uses it regularely.
If all else fails ive used one of those mini drills with a tiny .5/.75mm with TIN or COBALT coated tip and then carefully got larger drills so that all thats left is slithers stuck in the threads.
ian

 

[BillN]

Honestly if you have not done it before spend £30, (I paid a tenner 5 years ago), at your local garage and let them do it
Talk to them first and ask them if they can remove them.....it is only a 5 minute job for an experienced mechanic..older the better

You will be able to ride the Bike there if you just attach the headers with what you have left

 

[SecretSquirrel]

Theres also some spray that freezes the metal so shrinking it in the thread a motor mechanic mate uses it regularely.

I think that might help. I'll try Halfords tomorrow.

If all else fails ive used one of those mini drills with a tiny .5/.75mm with TIN or COBALT coated tip and then carefully got larger drills so that all thats left is slithers stuck in the threads.
ian

I've done this quite a few times before. The only problem is that the studs are along way into the head and the chance of drilling in straight is zero.

 

[SecretSquirrel]

I've given up with the studs for the evening and fitted a new rear Ohlins shock and bled the clutch. At least that was successful.

 

[SecretSquirrel]

Well, looks like I'm going it alone :-(
I've taken careful note of all of Steptoe's previous comments on studs and I'm hoping not to have to resort to taken the head off.
Back to the garage ...

 

[northengit]

studs

Well, looks like I'm going it alone :-(
I've taken careful note of all of Steptoe's previous comments on studs and I'm hoping not to have to resort to taken the head off.
Back to the garage ...

Fortunately the studs are made of soft cheese.... which means once they've siezed what ever you grip/ twist'em with they'll snap off. If you then go down the extractor route you'll have more trouble, they do drill out quite easy if you can keep everytrhing straight......but you could just keep it simple whip the heads off ( it aint difficult) take them "the heads" to your local auto engineers get,em drilled out and retapped and some new studs fitted.

 

[SecretSquirrel]

Yes, I'm approaching that point.
Today I have welded nuts to 2 of the studs, but couldn't get the weld to stick to the nuts, so they soon started to turn on the stud.
1 stud is broken level with the head so I'm drilling that one. Unfortunately, my best drills bits are at work ... doh!
Thank you for your help NG.

 

[SecretSquirrel]

I'm overwhelmed by the offers of help. Wot a wonderful load of Tossers you all are!
My garage was too small to accommodate all the volunteers. All but 1 had to remain outside the garage and provide remote words of encouragement. My lovely wife kept them supplied with beer, tea and sandwiches (what a star) and everyone left very happy. Hope you all managed to avoid plod on the way home ;-)
With a combination of patience, heat, WD40, more heat, bash with hammer, more heat, more WD40, lots of cursing, a few cups of tea, more heat, more WD40, another bash ... 3 studs have been removed without any damage to the head!
The 4th, I've carefully drilled out and extracted the remains of the stud with minor damage.
I was wondering about using a 40mm long M8 S/S bolt instead of a S/S stud and nut?
I might get this pile of shite back on the road soon?

 

[autogs]

just seen this squirrel,im i fetcham do you still need any help?

 

[SecretSquirrel]

just seen this squirrel,im i fetcham do you still need any help?

Good day AutoGS. Just about sorted now Ta.
I'm mulling over whether to use s/s bolts to secure the exhaust headers rather than s/s studs with nut as original spec?
If locked in place they should do the trick and be easier to remove next time.
The bike has been off the road since early June after input drive spline failure. Took ages to get a shaft from BMW in Germany!
I should have takled this job whilst I was waiting
You're rather conveniently close. I'm near Nescot, off Longdown Lane North.

 

[autogs]

yes i know it,glad your sorted,i have some really good snap on stud extractors at work,have never let me down esp with a bit of heat,any way history now,well done getting where you are now,stainless sounds good idea to me,good luck with rebuild,maybe catch up at newlands when your up and running,give me a shout if your stuck again

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Hi, stick to the studs, less likely to strip thread in the head in future.

 

[SecretSquirrel]

yes i know it,glad your sorted,i have some really good snap on stud extractors at work,have never let me down esp with a bit of heat,any way history now,well done getting where you are now,stainless sounds good idea to me,good luck with rebuild,maybe catch up at newlands when your up and running,give me a shout if your stuck again

Cheers, I will.
I bought 2 different types of good quality extractor, but neither would fit onto the studs.
I'll catch up with you and a few others soon hopefully. I do have another serviceable bike to use fortunately.

 

[SecretSquirrel]

Hi, stick to the studs, less likely to strip thread in the head in future.

Good point