The problem with home mechanics
- Thread starter ~Stef~
- Start date
Tools
Teng Tools and Britool I find are good quality............with lifetime warranty
Teng Tools and Britool I find are good quality............with lifetime warranty
brassmonkey001
I should change this
And amateurs too...
Britool are good quality stuff too, as are King Dick (stop sniggering).
Right then, I suppose I better reply to this one.
Any time I have ever had cause to remove wheels from anything, I have always replaced them using the tool supplied for that purpose. In emergencies the same tool would have to be employed.
No excess force ( or feet ) is neccessary or has ever been used on said items.
You will notice a smear of copperslip on threads, not advised in manual, but none on the bolt tapers.
The same goes for the front wheel. tools from kit used. Hand tight.
I have been working on bikes for more years than I care to remember and have always used a torque wrench where required to do so.
As for the other "horsed up" items you refer to. What? I am only one of the previous owners of your bike. You assume I am the only person who has layed spanners on it.
As it is fairly widely known that I am the previous owner of your bike, I feel these comments are a bit offensive.
Any time I have ever had cause to remove wheels from anything, I have always replaced them using the tool supplied for that purpose. In emergencies the same tool would have to be employed.
No excess force ( or feet ) is neccessary or has ever been used on said items.
You will notice a smear of copperslip on threads, not advised in manual, but none on the bolt tapers.
The same goes for the front wheel. tools from kit used. Hand tight.
I have been working on bikes for more years than I care to remember and have always used a torque wrench where required to do so.
As for the other "horsed up" items you refer to. What? I am only one of the previous owners of your bike. You assume I am the only person who has layed spanners on it.
As it is fairly widely known that I am the previous owner of your bike, I feel these comments are a bit offensive.
Peter Harris
Registered user
Rear wheel bolts
Next time I have my wheel out, I'm going to drill the bolt heads & when the wheels back in I will lock wire them together. A real case of Peace of mind.
Next time I have my wheel out, I'm going to drill the bolt heads & when the wheels back in I will lock wire them together. A real case of Peace of mind.
Mick Fagan
Registered user
I'm the only person who works on my bike and I correctly torque up the rear wheel, which, as has been noted, is extremely tight.
Every time I undo the bolts I use a ½" drive socket system and I put a hammer between the brake pedal and the throttle body inlet tube, to hold the wheel from moving.
Then I use my body weight by putting my foot on the spanner and push down slowly and firmly, it never ceases to amaze me just how much force is required to do this.
I don't think anything was wrong.
Mick.
Every time I undo the bolts I use a ½" drive socket system and I put a hammer between the brake pedal and the throttle body inlet tube, to hold the wheel from moving.
Then I use my body weight by putting my foot on the spanner and push down slowly and firmly, it never ceases to amaze me just how much force is required to do this.
I don't think anything was wrong.
Mick.
motomartin said:I agree, but what makes you think that it's 3/8" drive?
Nothing wrong with Halfords kit 99% of the time - it shouldn't have broke - must be a manufacturing fault - big notch at the smallest cross-section -case hardening too deep- chroming embrittlement etc etc
Phil
I wouldnt have expected it to break, either I was only using a 12" bar on it.
Slack nuts?
Your bolts should be even tighter
franco said:Halfords Professional are excellent quality tools. Problem is, it's too ferking cold up in Scotland, mine show no signs of strain whatsoever, despite being used on Defenders, dodgy 1980 Golfs, bainrs pushbikes etc...besides, the rear wheel retaining bolts are supposed to be tightened up to 76lb/ft....even compared to most Scotsmen that's bloody tight
Your bolts should be even tighter
Attachments
Rear Bolt Torque Setting
Right take a torque wrench (any make of your choice), torque the bolts up to 50NM in a X manner as initial setting. Now re-torque them to 105NM what they are suppose to be according to the manual. Take out your BMW supplied wheel spanner, insert the extra pipe fitting on the end for more leverage. Now see how easy it is to undo - NOT! You need to literally stand on the freaking lever to get it moving applying even pressure with the wheel locked down.
Rather have it tight than running past you on the motorway while you wondering who's back wheel just came undone.
Right take a torque wrench (any make of your choice), torque the bolts up to 50NM in a X manner as initial setting. Now re-torque them to 105NM what they are suppose to be according to the manual. Take out your BMW supplied wheel spanner, insert the extra pipe fitting on the end for more leverage. Now see how easy it is to undo - NOT! You need to literally stand on the freaking lever to get it moving applying even pressure with the wheel locked down.
Rather have it tight than running past you on the motorway while you wondering who's back wheel just came undone.
(RIP) Geriatric Germ
Registered user
Re: Rear Bolt Torque Setting
AGREE AGREE AGREE
See/Hear
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17891
maverick said:Right take a torque wrench (any make of your choice), torque the bolts up to 50NM in a X manner as initial setting. Now re-torque them to 105NM what they are suppose to be according to the manual. Take out your BMW supplied wheel spanner, insert the extra pipe fitting on the end for more leverage. Now see how easy it is to undo - NOT! You need to literally stand on the freaking lever to get it moving applying even pressure with the wheel locked down.
Rather have it tight than running past you on the motorway while you wondering who's back wheel just came undone.
AGREE AGREE AGREE See/Hear
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17891
well i think trying to shift 76+?? ft/lbs* with an (unnecessary) 3/8 chinese (probably) wobble extension is asking for trouble.
a normal extension would probably have lasted better than the wobble bar shown in the photo. it's snapped at the waisting of the drive section. what a surprise
they are meant for accessing awkward nuts/bolts etc. not graunching tight stuff.
and i've seen a fair few decent tools break too. with snap~on it's usually their piss poor hex keys & rubbish screwdrivers. never seen an extension of theirs break, though they probably do.
saw a mate shear two 3 foot MAC breaker bars at the pivot, one after the other once. i seem to remember they cost 70 quid odd
*it will take more torque than whatever it was initially done up to, to move it again.
ps. Kenny, 105 nm is approx 76 ft/lb
a normal extension would probably have lasted better than the wobble bar shown in the photo. it's snapped at the waisting of the drive section. what a surprise
they are meant for accessing awkward nuts/bolts etc. not graunching tight stuff.
and i've seen a fair few decent tools break too. with snap~on it's usually their piss poor hex keys & rubbish screwdrivers. never seen an extension of theirs break, though they probably do.
saw a mate shear two 3 foot MAC breaker bars at the pivot, one after the other once. i seem to remember they cost 70 quid odd
*it will take more torque than whatever it was initially done up to, to move it again.
ps. Kenny, 105 nm is approx 76 ft/lb
Re: Slack nuts?
Slack bladder maybe...but not nuts ;-) I suppose living in Europe, I should now be used to Newton-Metres....76lb/ft is 105Nm...Or for me, nearly 4 fingers on the spanner
Kenny Rodkiss said:Your bolts should be even tighter
Slack bladder maybe...but not nuts ;-) I suppose living in Europe, I should now be used to Newton-Metres....76lb/ft is 105Nm...Or for me, nearly 4 fingers on the spanner
Spanish Bob
Guest
cookie said:i find this puppy comes in handy
wheres the bloody puppy?
Deleted account W
Guest
Spanish Bob
Guest
whatton63 said:
oh blimey
anyway thats not one of Cookies
MasterDabber
Registered user
Fair do's to Halfords
No quibble, replaced them on the spot, no request for a receipt or anything.
Probably shouldn't have broken in the first place but at least they responded well.
Took both the broken extension bars back to Halfords this morning.motomartin said:
No quibble, replaced them on the spot, no request for a receipt or anything.
Probably shouldn't have broken in the first place but at least they responded well.
Re: Re: Slack nuts?
105 newton meter = 77.4440255 foot pound-force
franco said:Slack bladder maybe...but not nuts ;-) I suppose living in Europe, I should now be used to Newton-Metres....76lb/ft is 105Nm...Or for me, nearly 4 fingers on the spanner
105 newton meter = 77.4440255 foot pound-force
