The School Run (Santiago de Compostella)

[steve1]

More rain

Main roads soon turn into narrow pedestrianised alley-ways We trudge on through the ancient city to the building that we think isthe cathedral. It continues to rain are they're aren't many people around. You know what they say- mad dogs and Englishment go out in the midday rain! I think most sensible people are inside watching the tv. In the distance a huge firework explodes with a deep boom, wtf was that for??

 

[steve1]

Window shopping

As we walk we pass numerous shops. At first their the usual type of thing - food clothing bakers butchers etc, but as we near the centre of the city the shops get more touristy. I take pictures of the things i can't believe their allowed to sell. We see one shop with guns and ammunition openly on sale! Is that legal?

 

[steve1]

tourists

The shops are now selling all manner of tourist parafinalia. Santiago de Compostela represents the culmination of a massive trek, known as the 'Camino' which can take pilgrims hundreds, if not thousands of miles across borders and months to complete. They're all headin to see the remains of st Jimmy in the cathedral. Anyway over the years a few iconic acoutrements have become essential fashion accessories for the serious pilgrim.
1 The walking stick- this is basically a piece of branch which helps you walk and i am sure offers great assistance to the serious walker (ps there on sale in every shop for 5 euro- even if the shop is next door to the cathedral) however its fun to watch the stilleto clad tourist pretending that they have walked for weeks!
2 The clam shell- now i have heard many different accounts of the significance of these shells, here are my favourite, most believable two. The first is that it represents a plan of the many paths which lead to santiago. As you walk around the city there are numerous symbols which include a version of this design. The second, and probably more practical, has the shell being used to catch rainwater for drinking. Again believable (you would never go thirsty in this town)
By the way these shells are traditionally tied to the walking stick with a bit of string?
3 Another item can often be seen tied to the walking stick- I cant make my mind up wether it is a funny shaped local cheese or some sort or gourd. Anyway im guessing that this would be for food.

So as were walking about we see many serious pilgrims with this bit of kit but also more laughably tourists who are clearly pretending to have done the camino. We had lots of fun playing spot the fake!

 

[steve1]

Distant Guns

Big, really big, fireworks go off intermitantly throughout the day as the rain beats a steady tempo on my wet head. We wander through endless streets, passageways and plazas being rained on constantly. I'm really depressed, i can't believe we left the wonderful campsite at Tapia for this. We sit outside a heaving bar and order a beer, the huge umbrellas protect us from the rain rather than sunshine. We both sit there dejected, its amazing how the weather can affect your mood. We make our way back to the camp at As Cancelas and buy food for tea en route. Its still raining, constant steady rain.
In the distance another huge shell bursts in the grey sky (the enemy must be getting closer)

 

[Popeye]

You tell a good story

 

[steve1]

Battle Fatigue "All Day it has Rained."

I begin to worry about the bike. All this rain could soften the ground and the sidestand could sink and it could fall over. We arrive back at As Cancales and climb the steep path (without ropes) to the tent. The bike is fine, i find a smooth rock and put it under the stand anyway- belt and braces.
This rain is getting to me - its difficult to do anything when it rains like this apart from lie in the tent.
The tent has stood up well to the weather - the Mrs makes sandwiches in the main tent whilst i huddle in the porch with the trangia making coffee. I was a bit worried about using it in the porch but so long as your not silly with the flames its ok.
Sandwich and coffee and all is well (apart from the rain!)

In the distance a huge firework explodes- reminding us both of how close we are to the front. Tomorrow we go over the top, this could be our last meal. Just enough time for letters home and final checks on our weapons.

The night brings heavier rain at around two the barrage (fireworks) from the enemy reaches an almighty crescendo. This must be it, the attack. As the rain hammers on the roof of my dug out i fix my bayonet and wait for the captains whistle- It doesn't come. I sit in state of readiness untill around four. Multiple airbursts coupled with heavy rainfall signal no sleep tonight - i think im going mad.

I decide to make coffee on the trangia inside the porch. The rain continues to hammer the vango and the porch is begining to flood. Fortunately the water is finding its own level and is simply flowing through the porch and down the hill. 4:30 pitch black pouring rain we drink coffe and share a pack of Spanish bisacuits- What am I doing here?

 

[pubby]

No Scorchio Scorchio then ?

 

[Tengiz99]

Went with the missus a few years ago, really liked Santiago. Had some of the best tapas ever there. Piementos do padron, yum yum.

 

[Invicta Moto]

Great tale... keep going!

 

[steve1]

PC City - portatiles

Saturday August 1st 2009

Morning comes and the rain is still with us. The porch on the Vango has totally flooded and we have to be carefull not to tramp mud into the tent. The Mrs makes a sandwich for breakfast whilst i fire up the trangia. Im getting a dab hand at this now. I deliberatey didn't bring any matches, instead i keep one of those fire steel thingys in my brew kit- works a treat. (Ray Mears eat your heart out!)
After last nights fiasco we are tired and cold and decide to have hot showers to warm up.
Mines a success but the Mrs complains that her shower was only luke warm. Apart from that the facilities are good clean, modern and plenty of room.

Back at the tent we put on as many layers as possible then its down to the bar for a coffee and a play on their internet connection.

SWMBO wants a Spanish laptop (portatiles) The only place i have found in Santiago is PC City ( Spanish equivalent of PC world) on their website a half decent one is around 370 euros which isn't too bad. We look at the map and set off in search- we need to get a wiggle on because SWMBO needs to be at Uni this afternoon.

On the map the store seems to be in the opposite direction to the actual town centre- so we go to Macdonalds roundabout and turn right.
We're walking along a dual carrigeway with housing blocks on one side amongst which are dotted the odd shop and bar. We both get the feeling that this is not a promising route so its into the bar for a beer/coffee and ask the chappy for directions. Its not long after that the Mrs finds out we have been walking in the wrong direction.
The chappy at the bar draws us a map and soon we're on our way armed with new coordinates. We plod on through drizzle and find PC city just where the man said it would be. Their prices are astronomical and bear no relation to the website deals. Around 500euro for the cheapest portatiles as compared to 370 on the web.
We decide to go back to the camp and buy one over the net.
On the way back hunger gets the better of us an we shelter from the rain in a pizza hut type place. Then its off once again back to camp. Unbelievably the rain has intensified and the streets have cleared, people are sheltering in bars and hiding in shop doorways. We dont have the luxury of time so we march onwards. In the distance a massive firework booms in the grey sky.
We arrive back at As Cancelas drenched, we head for the bar and the internet. I try to order a PC to be delivered to the UK but it will only allow spanish nationals to access the online shop. I tell SWMBO to check with the people at Uni for the best placews to buy a laptop and i will keep my eyes open whilst i'm out and about.

SWMBO needs to check in at Uni before 6 and there's no way i'm staying in God's urinal another night.

We climb the hill in the pouring rain and begin to pack up our wet gear. We divide up our stuff- i don't want to be carrying anything surplus to requirements and she can stash it in her room.

At 4:30 Spanish time we negotiate the precipitous track (Now a stream) down to Santiago town as distant fireworks burst more clouds. The rain is pissing and i'm hoping the sat nav knows where he's going. 10mins later he drops us in the middle of the university campus. Everything looks the same! No signs. A woman approaches and in my best broken Spanish I ask her directions to the dorms. She detects my Northern lilt and answers in clear Manc! She's on the same course as the Mrs. By 5:30 we've said our goodbyes and i'm heading South (hopefully to better weather)

Riding the GS is weird without the Mrs, we've come so far together and now im alone. The bike is much more nimble with just me and only haif the kit. I have to watch myself, SWMBO keeps my riding in check, i ride safe whilst she's with me but now the safety valve is off! I whack it South in the direction of Ponteverde. I deliberatly ignore the Sat Nav and stick to the minor roads. The weather is improving with every mile but my mood isn't. Im worrying if the Mrs will be OK in Santiago. I reassure myself that the experience will do her good and give myself a good scaring on the GS.
I follow a large bike with Spanish plate Southwards, he seems to know the road and rides like a nutter. I try and keep up with him until some dick in a beaten up citreon van pulls out on me and i have a serious moment. I'm off the leash and i'm travelling way too fast.
I give the citreon driver the international sign of disapproval and let him eat my dust.
Through Ponteverde the roads are worn out, the tarmac has been hammered by HGVs and is breaking up on most bends. My average speed drops drastically as i try to reduce the number of pot hole strikes. I notice that petrol stations are becoming sparse so when one appears i decide to top up my tank. Im heading towards Vigo but its getting late -7:30 Spanish time. I need to make camp, i ask the sat nav but, surprise surprise he knows nothing!
The man at the petrol station supports Manchester United (as you do) and directs me to a camp at Manoa. I follow his directions and 5 miles down a twisty road i'm there. The site is fantastic, down a steep slope on the banks of the Vigo estuary looking across at the city. The receptionist leads me in brilliant sunshine through citrous groves to my pitch. What a contrast to the swimming pool that is Santiago.

 

[steve1]

After clearing a few oranges from my pitch its time to get the wet Vango up!

 

[steve1]

Sunshine = Happiness

Although its getting late the evening sunshine lifts my mood as it drys the tent. I hang damp kit over the bike and put a damp boot on each cylinder. Setting up the tent is not the same without the mrs. Ive nicked her sleeping mat and bag so tonight i should sleep like a king!

Don't know what to do so i hit the bar, they have homemade empanadilla atun (tuna pasties) which, along with a beer, come to 3euros Bargain!
I have three rounds pastie and beer. The slender barmen looks at me and his eyes betray the international look of disapproval. I know in his head he's saying fat bastard but i dont care and swiftly order another. The barman obviously in awe of my appetite looks on mouth agape as i down my fourth pasty in two generous bites. I wash it down with the beer, pay my bill then its off to bed. Portugal tommorrow.

 

[pubby]

ride fat boy ride

 

[BegesRus]

Good tale - what's next?

 

[pubby]

Come on Ste, i'm waiting for the next instalment

 

[steve1]

Manoa

Sunday 2nd August 2009

Up at 6:30 Spanish time. Still pitch black and freezing cold. Was gonna have a shower but its too cold- nip to the loo then back in bed for an hour. 8:00 shower and shave, its light but i still cannot see the sun. The site sits in the shade of a large hillside which juts out into the Vigo estuary. This serves to shelter the area from coastal breezes however on the downside the sun doesn't hit it untill around 9 at this time of the year. The facilities at the site are rustic / minimal but adequate and clean with plenty of hot water. The toilets are the most interesting i have come across on my trip so far. Like a white shower tray with two raised footprints and a simple hole. I was gonna take a picture but i thought it would be to weird to explain if anyone had seen me.
Make a brew on the trangia then have a wander as the sun begins to warm everthing up.
The site is a mix of tents, motorhomes, caravans and some small log cabin thingys. Its mainly spanish who come here with a sprinkling of tourers like myself. The site has its own private beach on the river and the views across to Vigo are spectacular. I spend half an hour just looking across the water as Vigo wakes. An old man competes with the seagulls for the shelfish along the rocky shoreline. My thoughts are with SWMBO- hope shes ok.

 

[Popeye]

This is a cracking tale for some obscure reason. Great narrative

 

[steve1]

Wander back to the tent as the site begins to wake. Put another coffee on and plan todays route. Ultimately i'm heading South but looking at the map i realise i will have to follow the estuary Eastwards untill i can find a crossing point. Looks like the AP9 is my best bet. I'm heading into Portugal to a place called Covas near to villa nova de cerveria. I found this place on the internet and it has good reviews. I also got the coordinates from their website so the sat nav knows the way!
Its gone 9 o clock and there's still no sign of life at reception- how much sleep do these people need?. I grow impatient and begin to pack my gear as the sun clears the trees- its gonna be a glorious day. All packed up i walk round to reception and pay the girl 12 euros (Bargain) recommend this site!
I decide to skip breakfast and head off.

 

[steve1]

Campsite at Manoa

Camping Tiran Moana

 

[steve1]

Into Portugal

Soon i'm following a road alongside the Vigo tight switchback bends falling into villages and climbing over ridges. The estuarys on my right and i'm following signs for the autovia into Portugal. Its a good feeling to have the sun on my back - just the right temperature at this time of day.
The roads are so quiet, even when i travel through built up areas i hardley see a moving car, i realise its Sunday and think to myself that it must still mean something over here.
Soon i'm at the mnotorway roundabout which almost immediatlely leads onto a spectacular high level bridge across the vigo estuary. The Views are breathtaking. If i wasn't on a motorway i would have stopped to take pictures.
Onward to Portugal this is a very fast road- no one else around for miles - check the mirrors, nothing- then suddenly a car passes you at breakneck speed. These guys must be doing well over a ton. Speed limit says 120kmh dropping to 90kmh through tunnels. I tend to cruise between 80-85mph which is probably about 10mph above the speed limit, but its safe and the bike likes it- cars are still passing me as though i'm stood still. Still nothing to prove, ride safe.
Toll road ahead 2.95 euro -didnt seem too bad then back into nothingness -80mph, the sun is still rising and its getting hotter by the minute- might have to do something about this jacket - its getting warm.
Suddenly i'm picking up signs for Portugal - 5km. Check my speed drop down to 75mph (about 120) and think about my passport. Sign ahead Portugal 2km well here we go- but - thats it - nothing- no border, no guards, no passport check just an EU sign with Portugal written inside the stars. Weird- just like going to Wales (Only you've got the sunshine)
Only real difference is that the signs have changed language. Well then this is Portugal, another toll ahead and my first encounter with the indiginous life forms. She may as well have spoken Chinese- "Not bragging" i consider myself proficient in basic Spanish and i thought this would see me right in Portugal, how wrong can you be. I rode away from the toll with the dawning realisation that i only know one word in portuguese 'obrigado' and i think that means thankyou.
Feeling a little ill-prepared i press on. The sat has the co-ordinated loaded and he seems to know what he's talking about. He tells me that we should arrive in around two hours. Eventually the sat nav gets bored of the motorway and leads me on to country roads which begin climbing into mountains covered in dense pine forest. The smell is amazing as the road continues to rise up into the forest. Soon my speed has dropped as the road becomes narrow, almost single track in places. The trees have formed a canopy which is protecting me from the heat of the sun- what a pleasant ride. Now and again a break in the trees reveals spectacular views across a vast mountain range covered in green pine forest. I suddenly become aware that i have not seen another car, vehicle, truck, person, building in about 40 mins.......