The School Run (Santiago de Compostella)

[steve1]

Secret German Installation

I follow the wide road up a steep hill which levels after a while on a natural plateau.
Monte de Gozo is a hotel, come camp-site, come show-ground, come concert arena. The vast complex in situated on top of a mountain which overlooks the rain-soaked hippy magnet that is Santiago de Compostela.
I had inadvertantly ridden into the aftermath of some sort of concert. The whole place was littered with plastic pint pots which blew across the road like post apocalyptic tumble weed. (I later found out that Bruce Springsteen had played the previous night)
I pull alongside a concrete bunker which has a sign describing it as 'reception'. In i go and am immediately pounced upon by a man in a tailcoat and tie. Bloody hell he's keen. I realise i'm in the wrong place, the suit waffles in Spanish as i gawk at the opulence of my surroundings. They must have spent a fortune on this place all gold and marble with soft lighting- feel like i'm in the toilets at the trafford centre. Its totally unexpected, there was not a hint of 'poshness' from the outside- i was expecting a German machine gun crew.
Anyway this guy is keen to communicate with me (think it may be my attire, i don't quite fit). CAMPING i say in a slow and deliberate voice he shakes his head and leads me by the elbow outside. Now i'm worried he may be Gestapo!
Steady on old bean we hardly know each other. He unhands me beyond the blast doors and points into the distance down a deserted road which leads deeper into the base. He then motions his hand to the right and awaits my response.
Being fully conversant in international mime/sign language i instantly understand. I salute him, click my heels together and march briskly back to my tank, and boot it down the road....Bloody Germans (pardon my French)

 

[steve1]

My very own campsite!

Further down the road i pass 3 HGV trailers which are being loaded with all manner of concert equipment. I have to watch myself because the two fork lift drivers appear quite certain that there are no other vehicles/humans in their vicinity. I give them an extremely wide berth and continue on my way. The sign up ahead has a tent symbol on it so i follow and turn right. I'm confronted with wooden chalet that has a traffic barrier pole sticking out of it. The roads a bit too steep here to stop the bike so, much to the annoyance of the woman in the chalet, i pull around the barrier (because i can) and kick the bike onto its stand.
The woman has slid back her window and is leaning out of her little checkpoint glaring at me. I take off my helmet, stick it on the mirror and smile at her- she blanks me and goes back inside her hut.
I enter the chalet and walk up to a counter with a pc and telephone at one side. The woman has suddenly become so busy typing that she cannot even look up from her screen. I wait......still types, I cough...........still types.
Eventually my patience runs out and i walk to the door. Outside on the porch a huge drinks machine promises to refresh me for just 1.50 so i give it a whirl.
Sure enough the luminous green liquid brings the sparkle back to my eye.
I glance back inside- the Snow Queens face has changed she is now smiling from the other side of her barricade. I tell her i want to camp and she asks loads of the usual unnecessary questions - she tells me where all the facilities are and says that i can pitch anywhere.
I jump back on the bike, spin round and follow the road around to the right.
I soon realise why she said i could pitch anywhere- I'm the only one on the site!

 

[steve1]

Monte de Gozo

The site is two long parallel roads linked at the end in a "U" shape. Its one way so you have to ride all around it to have a good scan of the camp. The far end of the site is really picturesque however i decide against it. I know what the weather can be like in Santiago and its a bit exposed- nice view of the bridge though!

 

[steve1]

base camp

I settle on a place half way between the toilet block and the bar- seems sensible to cut down on the commute.
The Sun is so hot (I know unbelieveable for Santiago) i get changed into my shorts before i pitch my tent- Nobody can see i'm the only one here!

I call the Mrs and let her know i've arrived- we arrange to meet at the university in about an hour (6 Spanish time). This gives me plenty of time to set up camp.

 

[MMC]

Absolutely loving this, Steve. Top report!

 

[steve1]

who ate all the pies?

I sort the tent, dump my gear and ride off to meet the Mrs. It's good to see her at last i have someone normal-ish to talk to. I leave the bike at the university and we walk into Santiago. We grab a beer in the town centre but they've stopped serving food so we move on to another place and scoff down some tuna pasties.
The Mrs is full of university- her confidence has grown ten fold and she speaks to the waiters like a native (as in native to Spain..i didn't meant native- native, like on a desert island.) This course has been a valuable experience for her.
We wander through the streets shopping, the Mrs enthusing about university and me moaning about the lack of good road signs in Portugal.
Being a bit of a fat bloater i'm still on the look out for more nosebag so we grab a coffee and share a large ensalada atun- it's delicious.
The light is fading and our date is over too soon. I don't relish the thought of riding in the dark and so its a quick dash back to Uni to pick the bike. We say our goodbyes and i'm away in search of water and milk.

The traffic at this time of day is nightmarish and to make things more interesting they've closed a roundabout and confused my sat nav.

I eventually make it back to the campsite just as its going dark- deliberately piss the sentry off by not waiting for the barrier to rise and riding around it- (can't help myself)
The shop has closed but i manage to get water and milk even beer from the bar! result
I get back to my tent and i have neighbours. i can't help thinking its a bit weird that they set up next to me when the whole of the site is empty- they probably just wanna be betwixt the bar/toilets just like me.

 

[steve1]

funny noises and insomnia

As a rule i sleep like a log, however tonight's an exception. Funny noises in the bushes play havoc with my already over-active imagination. There seems to be much coming and going during the night.
I text the Mrs at 4am just to let her know that i can't sleep- 5 minutes later my phone chirps- neither can she.
I settle down and ruminate as to the origin of the funny noises in the bushes. A whole nights contemplation and my analytical thought processes come up with two conclusions.
1 (the most probable) A plastic bag has become entangled in the spiky bushes and is tearing itself apart in the prevailing wind.

2 (highly unlikely) Some Spanish psychopath is sat in the bush sharpening a knife.

I convince myself of the first option and pretend i'm asleep.

 

[steve1]

Tuesday 4th August 2009

Up at six (UK time) - dense fog and drizzle- decide to check out the shower facilities, they're very good- clean, modern and plenty of hot water, im suitably impressed.
Back to the tent for coffee on the trangia whilst i plan today's activities. The Mrs is on a day trip to A Coruna so wont see her till Wednesday.

Quick check around the back of the tent reveals no plastic bags but also no psychopaths.

Need some supplies so jump on the bike and head off to town, the fog is lifting and the sun is beginning to break through the drizzle.
As i enter the dual carriageway i can see a shopping complex up on the hill, this looks a better option than Santiago so i ride in the general direction. 10 minutes later i'm outside LIDL and Decathlon- result my two favourite shops.
(bookmark in favourites garmin)
Into lidl - pick up some cheese (why?) tomatoes, water, orange juice and some dried curry and rice- thought id get adventurous on the trangia.
Come out of of Lidl and my intention was to mooch around decathlon for a bit but i spy an electrical shop and my brain is filled with PORTATILES for the mrs. Unfortunatley they seem to just stock refrigerator stuff, fans and the like. Not to worry something will turn up. Back to the bike my plan is to have a good rummage around Santiago- I'm guessing this cheese and stuff will be OK in the panniers after all it would only be in a tent otherwise.
I ride into Santiago and find a bike park just off Playa Garcia

 

[steve1]

where's the bike??

Get changed ,lock the gear on the bike and go for a wander- the sun has broken through the cloud and the day is turning out to be quite pleasant. I find myself amongst old market halls, looks like I'm too late everywhere is packing up. There appears to be a separate hall for each type of food.
One for fish.......

 

[steve1]

One for meat

 

[steve1]

and one for fruit and vegetables......

 

[steve1]

where's the bike??

The suns really hotting up and all the moisture in the air is really draining. I grab a quick slurp to maintain my fluid levels. I find myself in a park with loads of birds, ducks, swans, etc . Sit down on a bench in the sunshine and watch people feed the birds. After a while sitting turns to slouching, turns to lying, turns to sleeping. Not really sure what happened to the rest of the day. Wake up around 5:30 Spanish time, the sun's beating down on me, I'm soaked through with sweat and there's and army of ants exploring most of my left leg. I jump up brush the ants off as best i can and down two cartons of juice from my bag.
Shit, where did i leave the bike???
I retrace my steps and find Plaza Garcia no problem however it takes me another hour, after exploring each road off the square, to find the bike.
Not really a comprehensive tour of Santiago - a market, a bar, and a park bench! but there's always tommorow.
I jump on the bike and head back to camp, wonder how the Mrs is going on in A Coruna??

 

[steve1]

"interesting" cusine

I blast back to camp, don't really need the sat nav as i've started to get my bearings now.
The last bit after the mini roundabout is brilliant, big wide empty road, good tarmac climbing up to my army base in the sky. Always stretch my legs on this bit then its right into the camp, check the speed as i squeeze through the barrier and cheer up whoever's on sentry duty.
Unload the panniers and come across the shopping from this morning mmmm warm cheese and tomato sandwiches- heaven
Note to self better chuck the cheese tomorrow.

 

[steve1]

washing

After a few texts to the Mrs and kids i decide it's about time i did some washing. I'm starting to run out of socks and undercrackers.
Interesting affair this washing lark- I use a piece of soap from the ferry and rub it all over the wet item then in the laundry room the sinks have ridges on the side that you can scrub your washing up and down- quick rinse then throw it on top of the tent to dry- hold on shouldn't there be an even number of socks???

Still puzzling over the missing sock i settle down to sleep- Mrs has free time tomorrow so we can meet up (and drink beer)

 

[steve1]

Wednesday 5th August 2009

Wake up 5:00 English time/6:00 Spanish time. Howling gale, sideways rain and freezing cold (even with the Mrs's posh sleeping bag) Dying for the loo, get dressed and brave the elements. Back from the loo, put on an extra t shirt and hide inside the sleeping bag, wake about an hour later.
The rain has eased a little and the wind has dropped but the weather is still poor enough to force me to brew up in the porch.
Coffee and a couple of strips of Milka for breakfast then interrogate the garmin for the nearest petrol station. Luckily one only 3 miles away.
After a quick shower, i sort the bike out ready to go out. Whilst doing so i notice my laundry has disappeared from the roof of the tent- a quick check downwind proves fruitless
Ho hum back to sorting my day.

 

[steve1]

Repsol fashion victim

Bike needs fuel so the Garmin leads the way. Its still quite early and i manage to sneak past the sentry without much fuss (cant help it - I pride myself on never having raised the barrier so far.)
Mr Sat Nav leads me towards Santiago and into the Repsol garage. I wave my credit card at the attendant and he fills my bike. He hands me a slip of paper and points to the kiosk. In i go with my 22euro bill.
There's a man in front of me so i wait my turn and gaze aimlessly around the place.
Why do they always sell porno dvds at Spanish petrol stations??

It is then i see the offer of the century- spend over 20yoyos and get a genuine team Repsol polo shirt half price-bargain!

I decide this is a good idea as my best one has either been stolen or blown away in last nights hurricane and the one i'm wearing is beginning to develop its own ecosystem.

After 5 minutes intense Spanglish i am the proud owner of a team Repsol polo shirt.
Before leaving the empty shop i pull off the labels, remove my smelly t shirt and put on the crisp clean garment. For a moment I zone out as my skin wallows in the pleasure that is "clean clothing". Its by now an almost forgotten experience because of my laundry dodging-habits.
The face of the woman behind the counter exhibits a mixture of incredulity and disgust and she utters something in Spanish (i'm guessing it's a prayer.)
I kid myself that i know what she's thinking
* i'm betting that she wants a piece of this fine English torso*
- however-
It is then i remember i'm not wearing a bra
(So the look on her face could have been envy!)

 

[muppix]

After a few texts to the Mrs and kids i decide it's about time i did some washing. I'm starting to run out of socks and undercrackers.

Hehe, nice one. I too did some washing yesterday, and found a novel way of drying said garments without them being blown away by the wind: take down the inner part of the tent and hang them from the poles holding up the outer part. Honestly, sometimes I think it's just me and Ray Mears.

Enjoy the rest of your trip, I'll be checking back as I finish the last days of mine.

Mup, somewhere in northern Spain.

 

[Stewart H]

Fantastic, frightening the locals with your manly physique

Stewart

 

[steve1]

Nice Bike

Chuck the smelly t shirt in the pannier and decide to have a wander.
Leave the bike outside a bank on the main road at the back of Santiago Cathedral
- this has become somewhat of a habit. I feel if i park my bike close to a large respectable institution then it imbues some sort of protection over my machine. Seems to have worked so far.

Off on foot into old Santiago, i round a corner at the bottom of the hill near to the cathedral (where the nice toilets are) and i'm met with this beautiful vision.
Mega GS loads of character.
I love the way the owner hasn't tried to hide the tool tube but instead has made a feature of it. (assuming it is a tool tube and not a flare launcher) Looking at the stickers its clear that this bikes seen the world- Japan, Europe even a sticker from the NY sherraton - classy.
Its got some interesting mods but not altogether sure what they do??
Antenna on the beak?? and a sort of guard thing where the back pegs usually are- i assume its ridden two up as there are two helmets locked to the seat.
I stop drooling and continue wandering in my fashionable orange and black shirt.

 

[steve1]

Wizard Dog

I continue my stroll up the hill and into the plaza at the front of the cathedral. The day is hotting up quite nicely and the square is beginning to fill with the usual cosmic types convinced something spiritual has occurred just because they've finished their pan European trek (sorry-rant over, you'd know what i meant if you were there)

Its a this point that i'm accosted by a short sandal wearing gypo. He points at a dog which is dressed as a wizard ( at this point i feel it's necessary to point out that i had not been drinking).

I smile at him, the way you do, and look around for his helper.
He insists on leading me to the dog. His Spanish is fast and he has a weird accent which is making communication interesting.
Here's how i understand our interaction.

gypo - Help me, my master has been turned into a dog by evil demons!

steve1 - How can i be of assistance? I am a foreigner in this town an i believe your are trying to steal my camera.

gypo- come and sit alongside my master and he will tell you what you need to do.

steve1- OK, seems like a reasonable request.

gypo- Hand me your camera and i will record your meeting for posterity

steve1 (Holding the dog by the collar) If i don't get it back i'm keeping this dog.

gypo (takes photograph of me and the wizard dog) 1 yoyo please (holding out his hand)

steve1 What?? I owe you 1 euro??

I pay up and exchange the dog for my camera.

I think i've just been fleeced by a gypo with a wizard dog or by a wizard dog with a gypo???? Funny place