The School Run (Santiago de Compostella)

Some nutters (pilgrims) even burn their clothes and/or boots at the end of their journey at Cape Finisterre.
I'm not exactly sure of the significance of this final leg of the pilgrimage.

Maybe if you had walked the Camino (instead of riding your big gs :ymca) you would not be so quick to label those who have done so.
 
Maybe if you had walked the Camino (instead of riding your big gs :ymca) you would not be so quick to label those who have done so.
I take it from your tone you are a native of A Coruna
I'm mean no offence. to quote the lord Morrisey

"Heavy words are so lightly thrown"

Looking at life in such an objective manner i'm sure you would agree
I have the greatest respect for anyone who sets fire to their clothes.
 
sittin on a rock in the bay

Finisterre is a tiny place, there's a harbour and some amazing beaches with white sand and clear blue water.
Looking NE from Finisterre point you can see the lighthouse at Faro.
The village of Finisterre is picturesque enough but i'm in no mood to give it the attention it deserves. I've left the tent at Monte de Gozo (I wished i'd brought it with me) and i'm not looking forward to the ride back to God's Urinal. I decide to stay in Finisterre for as long as possible because its warm!
Its getting busy as the tourists take snaps of the point so I move the bike further up the road close to Faro Lighthouse. I find myself a large rock that has been heated by the sun, lay back and catch some Zs.
 

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Time travel

What seems like 10 minutes passes by. The weather is turning, the sky has gone grey and there's moisture in the air. My front has pretty much dried out thanks to the sun. I jump off my rock to reveal a me-shaped wet patch, i'm guessing my back's still a bit damp.
I walk over to the bike and check the time OMG! its 6-o-clock (7 Spanish)I must have been asleep for hours!
Put the camera on my rock and take a picture using the timer function.
Anyway- less of this F-ing about, I'd best be getting off, i don't wanna ride in the dark.
 

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leaking dogs

From Finisterre I whack it back along the coast. Mr sat nav takes me inland and down a brilliant smooth tarmac road which undulates up and down but is dead straight- nothing else around so full steam ahead.
Coldplay remind me of warning signs as I glance black skies in my mirrors. Every now and then a spot of rain hits the visor but the sun is still keeping me warm.
At Santa Comba i have to stop i'm hungry and i need to eat something. I stop at the first cafe and order a large coffee.
The place is deserted and i have the bar to myself. I ask for food but they're not serving so i settle for a bag of strange flavoured crisps.
Within 15 minutes i'm ready to leave. I realise the weather is chasing me and i dont want to get wet.
As i leave the cafe a dog is just finishing pissing on the front wheel of the bike. I stand to take a picture of the bike and the incontinent canine tries to cock its leg near me. A quick stamp of my foot and the dog leaves a dark trail into a nearby door.
I jump on the bike and disappear before someone phones the rspca or makes me mop their floor.
 

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Around 15 minutes from Santiago the road begins to climb and the heavens open. My average speed drops from around 60mph to about 25mph. These bends are fantastic in the dry but its smooth tarmac with loads of road markings. I've previously caught a couple in the rain and scared myself so i'm weary when it's wet.
As I round the last few bends into Santiago and the wind picks up and the rain clears.
I stop at a supermarket to pick up some water for coffee and head back to camp. As i round the corner near the checkpoint the barrier is up but the guard is out of her hut. She hears or sees me approach and runs into the shed (i'm guessing she's gonna drop the barrier) I hold off the brake till the last minute and coast gracefully past her sentry box.

It looks as though it's been dry all day here-
(if i didn't have bad luck i wouldn't have any)
Make noodle surprise on the trangia (10p from Sainsburys) the surprise comes when you try to eat it....You'll be surprised if you finish it!
A quick shower - coffee then bed
............knackered -dream of food!
 
Friday 7th August 2009

Up early had a call from swmbo - able to collect her at 11 (spanish time)
Best news ive had in ages. Drop the tent and load the bike but not too carefully. The Mrs has loads of stuff and i'll just have to repack it all 10 miles down the road.

I dump all the crap and anything heavy. I give away beer and orange juice to a German fella who was extremely grateful.
He popped one open right there (9:30)- bit early for me. I later saw his wife and everything became clear (nearly went and bought him some more - poor bloke).

10:00 I'm fully loaded and able to kiss this wind-blown airfield goodbye. Down to the Repsol station to fill up (22yoyos) and i'm on my way to pick swmbo up from uni.
10:30 I'm outside University park the bike at the main doors, buy a coffee from the vending machine sit on the kerb and wait.
 

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Phone chirps- the Mrs just needs some documentation signed then she'll be with me.
Soon she's out hauling a 90 litre holdall that looks fit to burst and a large carrier bag. Shit where am i gonna put all that??

She's wrapped her laptop up in clothing and stuffed everthing around it inside the holdall. Whilst she changes into her bike gear i bungee the lot onto the back of the bike. This leaves just one sleeping bag which i strap to the d loops on top of the pannier.
 

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Mr Blue Sky

We exit the city very heavy- but the GS doesn't complain. 20 miles East and we stop at services for breakfast.
We check the map for possibilities over a breakfast of potato omelette and coffee.
I've parked the bike outside the window and i've locked the holdall onto the rack.
We're looking for better weather and we decide to run South West. We don't need to be back in Santander until Monday afternoon.

With no real destination in mind we hit the autovia and i just follow the signs for Madrid. The road is long and straight and the weather gets better with every mile. The scenery changes from lush green mountains to dry brown plains. The difference in temperature is amazing and it really lifts our spirits.
After about 100 miles i start picking up signs for roadworks or something similar.
The Mrs translates that the motorway will be closing at the next junction. We're signposted off and take the opportunity to have a coffee at a nearby service station.
The heat is unbelievable its 2:30 spanish time and the sun is high in the sky. The services are extremely busy, due to the motorway closure I expect.
 

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The Mrs takes the opportunity to text home and i notice a rather large beemer, not sure what it was looked custom (sorry about the picture quality)
 

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long time

c'mon steve, i'm waiting for the next installment. hope your not too busy drinking dirty beer and eating pies, or did you cop off with that tasty looking sheep at lumb farm.

freaky:ymca
 
Steve...

really enjoying your report. Keep it coming.

But how did you get away with : It's good to see her at last i have someone normal-ish to talk to.
 
STEVE!..STEVE!..STEVE!.....................??????? ?????????

Where have you gone we're all hanging around here waiting for the next bit.........

This is the best written, wittiest report for many a long time.:beerjug::beerjug:
 
Back in the saddle

After coffee we stretch our legs for a while and then its back onto the bike.
The diversion takes us around 5 miles through some serious twisties, which although normally would be mucho fun, proves to be hard work- with the bike so heavy.
The next autovia junction bekons and soon we're cruising in hot sunshine.
The miles slip by and the day becomes a scorcher. The road is straight, flat and relatively empty.
As the GS eats the miles the soothing tone of the engine lulls me into a false sense of security. The chatter between us stops as i enter a transcendental zone somewhere between reality and Mexico (circa 1865). This usually occurs when i'm tired,(not always as specific as Mexico) i'm totally on autopilot and my mind is free to wander. I'm truley at peace with my machine. The bike, the luggage, SWMBO and the landscape- we have become one. I am no longer riding but flying through a spaghetti western landscape half expecting the man with no name to tip his hat as we blast through his high plains.
My daydreaming is abruptly shattered by Green Day's American Idiot blasting through my headphones. (Not sure what's goin on with the volume on that track.)
Woken from my trance i realise it's time for a stop. The odometer reads 225 and the Repsol station ahead could be the last one for a while. Decide to pull in for petrol and a coffee.
Check my mirrors as we drop out of light-speed and am sure i catch a glimpse of a poncho-ed drifter guiding his horse across the carriageway. Thats it i definitely need a lie down.
 

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The mysterious man on the motorbike????

I fill the bike up (22 yoyos)and park at the picnic tables around the back.
We've reached Leon and the weather is glorious. I take my jacket off and sort my text messages as SWMBO goes in search of ice cream!

Aside- when i sent this pic to my family they didn't recognise me- not sure if that's a good or bad thing???
 

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This is not ordinary ice cream, this is Repsol's finest chocolate coated ice cream!

The Mrs's sortie into Repsol's freezer comes up trumps and she delivers the best tasting ice cream ever!
 

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Burgos or Bust!!

After 20 mins midst the tumble-weed and picnic tables we're ready to take on some more Spanish miles. After a quick scan of the map we decide we're going to try and make Burgos and find a campsite. It's 5 o-clock (Spanish time) and Burgos is is 140 miles away.
Confidence is high and Bono asks if "it's getting better?" as we continue on our south-westerly run. I'm inclined to answer in the affirmative, i've not had such a good day in ages.
Sodden Santiago becomes a dying ember in the fire-grate of my memory as we blast into the centrally heated white light of central Spain.
With the early evening upon us the never ending horizon is threatened by a ridge climbing on our right. Impossible to tell how far away, but as we near the wind speed increases from its direction. I estimate we are now fighting a steady 50mph cross wind. I find i can comfortably lean on the wind as we ride on. I just have to be careful of breaks in the ridge where the wind gusts and becomes stronger.
The Spaniards have exploited this resource and an army of turbines silently watches our approach for as far as the eye can see. We pass numerous low loaders which are carrying single blades for these gigantic windmills. The wind is incessant and it'd obvious why this electric forest has taken root here.

On the way into Burgos town we pass what seems to be a disaster area. An office block with the front collapsed. We later discover that it was the Civil guard's HQ which ETA had recently attacked.
We stop at a petrol station and ask the attendant for directions to the nearest campsite. He points us at Camping Fuentes Blancos and half an hour later we're setting up our tent in a fantastic campsite- Really good facilities and very popular.
 

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Tent up, grub up- beer

After much vagueness from the receptionist about where to pitch, i decide on a much used tactic. Not too near to the toilets but close enough. The ground was like concrete as i sent the Mrs off to check for bars and shops on the site.
 

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Otra Ronda

Soon it was dark and after a quick change we were both ready for food and drink. SWMBO has found an oasis close by and we were soon in there eating tortilla de patatas and mucho cerveza.
 

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