Throttle Body adjustment

Shurv

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Having almost completed my 1st proper full on service on my 1150 myself including adjusting the valve gear ( dead simple by the way), should I be checking the throttle bodies?If so, is there an "idiots guide" to doing this ? If not, has anyone done it themselves,and how hard is it?.

Thanks guys. :thumb
 
Very easy. Make your own syncer with a simple transparent pipe (search for the forum, i think i posted pics of mine here too).


I always check the sync of TBs after valve adjustment.


Clicky clicky


Cheers, Margus :beerjug:
 
Tsiklonaut said:
Very easy. Make your own syncer with a simple transparent pipe (search for the forum, i think i posted pics of mine here too).


I always check the sync of TBs after valve adjustment.


Clicky clicky


Cheers, Margus :beerjug:

Thanks for the link, Margus :thumb - I've still to try out my Twinmax, so having your guide is great :clap

Al :D
 
Thanks for the link Margus,just the job.Any ideas where I can get one of these twinmax thingies? How much are they,they look like a useful gadget to have in the garage. :thumb
 
2005_0826newbr10014.JPG


Heres one I made earlier. 4mm Aquarium tube and ATF.....works a treat. :thumb
 
Wow, you lot are soooo clever.I'll give that a try. :thumb
 
i knocked up a manometer today with tubing i had lying around.

main loop is 1m long in 8mm clear tube with longer 5mm tube, which fits snugly inside, to connect to inlet manifolds.

man18hj.jpg


i tried it on the Convert (guzzi 1000) & experienced a few problems:

1) fluid bounced around badly at tickover & eventually some got seperated from main body.

2) if one inlet becomes disconnected ATF gets sucked towards the manifolds with potentially disasterous results (hydraulic lock).

3) as you can see, it now has an air lock somehow & won't level out. will probably sort itself out when weather warms up & ATF thins out.

does anyone think a longer U tube with more ATF will help reduce the bouncing or should i find some sort of restrictors?

my only idea how to safeguard against #2 is fit two reservoirs above the U tube. i can't think what to use, in line fuel filters? too expensive.

my solution today: i put my carbtune on & sorted the balance in seconds.
 
I've had my carbtune for over 20 years, works out less than £1.50 a year, and getting less every year i use it - it's 1000 times better than fish tube, and it can balance 4 cylinders.

How cheap do you want it to be FFS, you penny pinching lot. :rolleyes:
Your fecking about with tubes and fluid and bits of wood, then you've got to store it safely.

yet you'll gladly spend hundreds of pounds on pld shite like sump plate extensions on the center stand ( when you don't go off road), huggers, thermometers !!! :confused: , tank covers ( that flattens the paint your trying to protect) and all manner of old tat. But scrimp on a few pounds that will make your life so much easier. I do find it amusing. :rolleyes:
 
Cookie,

Use smaller tubing and a longer loop. If your tube does pull off then it can be a problem but if the tubing is smaller then the amount of ATF going into the cylinder doesn't cause hydraulic lock. You will get a small amount of bouncing at tickover but you can see if the fluids moving in one direction or the other. As soon as you are off tickover then it steadies.

Neil,

It's a lot easier to use than a Twinmax and why not make a manometer? If you have an early mercury Carbtune they are good but how dodgy are they to store? the newer ones with the stainless rods wear the plastic tubes and loose their accuracy.

The Twinmax uses a £7 strain gauge that is potentially knackered if you only connect one pipe and run the engine and is of dubious accuracy anyway. At least with a manometer it doesn't need any calibration.
 
Rob Farmer said:
If you have an early mercury Carbtune they are good but how dodgy are they to store? the newer ones with the stainless rods wear the plastic tubes and loose their accuracy.

It's in a sealed unit, you can even carry it upside down.

Your wearing the plastic tubes out because you use them on Guzzis and Triumphs, the stainless rods are up and down the tubes like a rat up a drainpipe :D


Rob Farmer said:
Neil,

It's a lot easier to use than a Twinmax and why not make a manometer?

The Twinmax uses a £7 strain gauge that is potentially knackered if you only connect one pipe and run the engine and is of dubious accuracy anyway. At least with a manometer it doesn't need any calibration.

I'll agree it's easy to make. But buy the proper thing to start, and it'll last a lifetime.

Twinmax is shite, i bought one after reading how wonderfull they were. Used it once, then had to use the carbtune to do it properly. Put the twin max on the shelf, where it'll stay as a reminder not to be so foolish next time.

Unless someone wants to buy it from me , they really are wonderful, it's just me that doesn't get on with them, just do a search and look at all the praise . ;)
 
Steptoe said:
How cheap do you want it to be FFS, you penny pinching lot. :rolleyes:
Your fecking about with tubes and fluid and bits of wood, then you've got to store it safely.

i just fancied trying one :)
 
Carbtune on ebay here , don't know if it's cheap or not. Might be of interest to you tinkerers out there :thumb
 
I bought one of those and tried it today...what a pile of shite :( Dead sticky in the tubes and not accurate at all. I had to rebalance with the manometer afterwards. At lower rpm's, just off tickover, where you really want the balance to be good, both of the rods drop to the bottom of the gauge and are effectively useless. Big thumbs down.
 
Shurv, I have pm'd you mate. :thumb

Furthermore, FWIW, I echo Steptoe's sentiments about the mercury Carbtune. Bought mine 20 years ago, it is still going strong, has been completely safe, and does the job a treat. I have used it on all sorts of bikes, and it has been worth its weight in gold.

Mind you , thinking about my last statement, that makes about 50 pence, as it weighs very little!! :D Bugger.
 
The mercury ones are probably very good but the one I've just bought, with the stainless rods, is garbage.
 
Rob Farmer said:
I bought one of those and tried it today...what a pile of shite :( Dead sticky in the tubes and not accurate at all. I had to rebalance with the manometer afterwards. At lower rpm's, just off tickover, where you really want the balance to be good, both of the rods drop to the bottom of the gauge and are effectively useless. Big thumbs down.

I agree with Rob
i borrowed a new one off a friend to try out,one of the rods kept sticking making setting up very difficult,back to the manometer.
dont know what everyones got against manometers, after all, its only the differential pressure that is being checked

:beer:
 


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