Ticking/rattle

[lynchy]

I'm trying to find the source of a ticking/rattle and vibration that seems to be coming from the left hand cylinder on my r1150gs. I have done all the usual checks ,valve gaps /end play,tps setting, throttle sync. It only makes a noise when riding and the engine is warm, at first I thought it must be the cam chain tensioner as it sounds very much like a chain rattle. I have now fitted the upgraded tensioner but it made only a small difference to the vibration and no change to the noise. The bike has been down on the left side so I have now stripped the head off to check the piston but all looks fine. The only thing I found was the exhaust cam follower was badly pitted in the centre. I will be fitting a new one but is there anything else I need to be looking for while I have it stripped down and also do you think this pitting would cause the noise/vibration I'm getting. Also does anyone know where I can order a new cam follower from or is it a dealer only part.
Cheers

 

[Steptoe]

Check the (tiny) pushrods. The "mushroom" heads at each end can move in the cylinder body of the pushrod, which can cause the pitting you mention - You may need to warm it up, as thats when the ends show if they're loose.

 

[BLUE(UK)]

- You may need to warm it up, as thats when the ends show if they're loose.

Is that where the term 'at a loose end' came from?

 

[lynchy]

rattle

Thanks Steptoe, Ive now checked the push rod (stuck it under the grill ) but cant feel any movement . What you say makes a lot of sense when I look a the pitting on the cam follower, so I have ordered a new one anyway. Do you think this would cause vibration and noise loud enough to be heard and felt when riding at 70 mph. I was expecting to find something broken up.
Cheers

 

[lynchy]

push rod

I collected the new bits today from cannons and was given a completely different push rod. They said it was the right part number and didn't know if it was a upgraded version. Does anyone know if its the right one for my bike R1150gs, 2000 and if so is it alright to fit just one of this type or do I need to change them all. The old one is at the top.
Cheers

[/IMG]

 

[Steptoe]

Here's what happens to pushrods. Thats why they've changed the design.

Happens fairly regular, can be one of the reasons for a tapping/ticking noise

Read all about it in [URL="http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101272"]Nasty1[/URL]thread

I might do a sticky on this problem,and use your pictures as an example.

 

[cookie]

looks like you could use the new design as a knob stud in an emergency

 

[Steptoe]

looks like you could use the new design as a knob stud in an emergency

I do enjoy the occasional lttle insight into other peoples worlds

 

[lynchy]

I didn't take the old one with me to the stealer's and had to describe it as a sort of silver Liquorice Allsort , what the hell do I ask for next time .

 

[Mike Murphy]

ticking !!!!!!!

Lynchy
I hope the pushrod is the answer however I had a very similar experience with my 1100gs. When the bike got hot (i.e. at traffic lights) it developed a ticking sound (like a very loud tappet sound) on the right hand side.
This got to the stage that people crossing the street in front of the bike would look at it. Anyway by using a metal screwdriver against the head and up to my ear I reckoned the head was not the problem. After searching this site and others and also talking to the very helpful lads in MOTORWORKS came to the conclusion it was the small end bearing. I pulled the bike apart found very little play.
However there was a little so I replaced the con-rod (the bearing and rod are all the one piece). Be ware you need to replace both rods (as they have to balance) if you can get one from the same batch as the ones on your bike (colour coded) this would do also, but two new ones are better obviously. When I got the bike back together the noise was GONE.
The explanation, when the engine gets hot the parts expand. The gap (tolerance) between the small end bearing and the gudgin pin increases. This causing the ticking noise. When the bike cools a bit the gap reduces and the noise goes away.

Regards
M.
P.S. always make more enquiries before you pull the engine apart 1111

 

[Disaster Area]

Hi,
This sounds exactly like what is happening to my 1100GS. A 'tappety' noise from the right hand side when the engine gets warm (4 or 5 bars on the temp gauge.)
Forgive the stupid questions but: Are the pushrods and conrods different parts? If so, in which sequence should I try replacing them (i.e. which is easiest and cheapest to do? and which is most likely to stop that rattling!) Are the procedures outlined in Haynes?
I've no experience on BMW engines, although I do all get my hands dirty with Mini's quite often. I would probably have to do the job myself as here in NZ I haven't found a single independent BMW mechanic and can't afford main dealer prices! Just to put the icing on the cake, I would probably have to import the parts that I need. Steptoe, if you fancy a trip to the southern hemisphere, in return for accomodation, you can work on my bike!

Cheers in advance for advice

 

[Disaster Area]

Stupid questions ahead...

Hi,
This sounds exactly like what is happening to my 1100GS. A 'tappety' noise from the right hand side when the engine gets warm (4 or 5 bars on the temp gauge.)
Forgive the stupid questions but: Are the pushrods and conrods different parts? If so, in which sequence should I try replacing them (i.e. which is easiest and cheapest to do? and which is most likely to stop that rattling!) Are the procedures outlined in Haynes?
I've no experience on BMW engines, although I do all get my hands dirty with Mini's quite often. I would probably have to do the job myself as here in NZ I haven't found a single independent BMW mechanic and can't afford main dealer prices! Just to put the icing on the cake, I would probably have to import the parts that I need, although I'm back in the UK for a couple of weeks soon, so where would the best place to get the parts be?

Steptoe, if you fancy a trip to the southern hemisphere, in return for accomodation, you can work on my bike!

Cheers in advance for advice,
DA

 

[lynchy]

Fixed

I've put the bike back together and took it out for a good thrashing, its as sweet as a nut . There's still a little ticking when I roll off the throttle but nothing like it was and the vibration has completely gone. Don't you just love it when something goes right.
For DA in new Zealand the pushrods are easy to do, as they are the small rods that live between the cam followers and the valve gear in the head (con rods are the rods which join the piston to the crankshaft).Its best to check the cam followers (valve lifters) at the same time. If you follow the instructions for head gasket replacement you will see what needs to be removed to release the valve gear from the head, you then need to remove the cam shaft to get to the cam followers. If you are only doing the push rods you only need to remove the rocker shafts, this can be done by removing the rocker cover and then removing the small bolts that hold the shafts in place (there is one head bolt to remove) this can be seen in the adjusting end float guide. Make sure you have a manual and don't forget this is a bike engine and the bolts don't need to be as tight as in a car engine. If in doubt pay someone to do it for you, its always cheaper than a new engine

 

[Disaster Area]

Here goes nothing...

Well, the pushrods are on order and I got a copy of Haynes for my birthday (as well as a copy of "Build Your Own Sportscar for £250 ), lets see how many swearwords I invent when I try to replace them.

Just humouring me (an eternal pessimist) what are the chances of other bits of the engine being damaged if I haven't replaced the pushrods soon enough? I have visions of opening Pandora's box of worms on this one.

Thanks in advance,
Ben