Left cam chain rattle

[Reevo]

Just got back from a ride started my bike and for about 4 seconds horrid chain rattle
Pulled tensioner and it was the original one
So I’ve ordered the updated one

 

[DrFarkoff]

You are running 10W40 Semi synth aren;t you ???

 

[Reevo]

Yep when I pulled the tensioner once I’d cracked it with a spanner it undone easily with fingers next to no spring pressure

 

[DrFarkoff]

Yep when I pulled the tensioner once I’d cracked it with a spanner it undone easily with fingers next to no spring pressure

Weird But it rattled and disappeared Which is the important thing If it continued rattling you have to look at a snapped guide which happens

Anyway Usually a Change to 20W50 Dino is all that is required as they were designed for it and Not the less viscous lubes !

People are "precious" about oil But wiping away ALL the BS

The correct amount of Clean fresh 20 50 every 5500 - 6000 miles is PERFECT ..... Along with an OC91D Mahle Filter change

Do the FD with about 200ml of 75W140 GL5 Spec oil at the same time and whatever you fancy in the gearbox as long as it is GL5 spec and not hybrid Gl4/Gl5or anything else

Brake systems Dot 4 (Not Dot 5, the hoses and internals don;t like it)

Fuel filter every 24K but I usually change it and clean and lube the studs when I get an unknown bike

I have 93K on my R1150RT I serviced it for the gentleman for 17 years as he commuted here and there on it. following the above regime and apart from his not washing the old girl I would say it is mechanically superb

 

[Reevo]

Quick question
What is 20 w50 dino?
I understand the 20/50 bit

 

[KMD]

Quick question
What is 20 w50 dino?
I understand the 20/50 bit

Mineral oil, not synthetic.

 

[NeilDD]

Quick question
What is 20 w50 dino?
I understand the 20/50 bit

Dinosaur oil

IE Mineral oil

 

[Reevo]

I need to get with the program

 

[DrFarkoff]

I need to get with the program

We've been telling you that for weeks

 

[Two wheels good]

For mine: Valvoline All Climate 20/50 -not the more expensive VR1
Valvoline 80w90 GL5 gear oil
I remember often getting Elf/Total engine oil at a bargain price in a French supermarket, sacrificing the luggage space better used for Breton cider.

 

[Wrigsby1]

I need to get with the program

When you can speak all the bullshit you know you have arrived... Where is another matter but you'll speaka da lingo... Dino is an Americanism which is a whole new world of tires, bags, pavements etc... Google translate or ADV rider is you friend...

 

[Reevo]

Quick Question
I’ve fitted updated tensioner and did oil change 20/50 dino
I’ve heard sometimes the cam chain guides snap
If mine had snapped is the noise obvious?
I’ve got a ticking noise on the left
I’m going to check tappets tomorrow
Is there a check of the chain guide?
Cheers

 

[DrFarkoff]

Quick Question
I’ve fitted updated tensioner and did oil change 20/50 dino
I’ve heard sometimes the cam chain guides snap
If mine had snapped is the noise obvious?
I’ve got a ticking noise on the left
I’m going to check tappets tomorrow
Is there a check of the chain guide?
Cheers

Just get a torch and look down in The lower on the Left is fixed and should be straight and smooth

BUT in reality you get a Chatter more than a ticking

Ticking could be Injector, Worn throttle body spindle, Slight exhaust leak and other variables such as excessive valve or rocker end float clearances

 

[Si Yates]

Good info thanks chaps.

 

[Reevo]

Thanks for reply
I’m looking up how to adjust end float as well as tappets
Should be done by end of play today
I think I’m noticing it more now I’ve got standard exhaust on and as stated earlier sounds like a 2cv

 

[DrFarkoff]

Thanks for reply
I’m looking up how to adjust end float as well as tappets
Should be done by end of play today
I think I’m noticing it more now I’ve got standard exhaust on and as stated earlier sounds like a 2cv

Fit Noisy exhaust back on Tick gone

Eeeeeaaaasyyyyy! Solution

 

[DrFarkoff]

Fit Noisy exhaust back on Tick gone

Eeeeeaaaasyyyyy! Solution

IN reality, Throttle balance might also be worth a look at, I have seen quite a few with no free play in the cables / Adjusters at all and the butterfly taps on the throttle stop a little, there should be about 2 mm just so it is not tight in the adjuster barrel (NB do not adjust the 7mm throttle rest stops with the paint on them That is a factory setting!)

But if you intend to go a ahead ... Pay attention to the Torques!!

If I recall there is 20 nm plus 90 degrees plus 90 degrees for the Head nut and 18nm for the Cam carrier cap (they are M8 with a Torx 40 or 45
When you see mentions of M10 its the big Allen bolt down in the cam chain tunnel Don;t be torquing anything where you are working to 40nm Especially if that twat Botus mentions it!!!

Check/Set the Rocker end float !! THEN do valve clearances but if you can't slide the max clearance in, but can slide the min clearance

I would say leave well alone If you still have a load of play with the Max blade in Yeah its worth doing

Usually I slacken the nuts bolts a "bit" (experience type of thing but don't be loosening them off all the way, Just slacken) fit a pair of Mid Range blades above the rocker and hold them and the rocker arms upwards and tap the cast bit upwards with a chunky hammer (N.B> TAP!!! ) when the blades are nippy Torque them up roughly and see how the blades move (if they don;t change don;t hit them harder slacken a little more

You want them to be a LITTLE nippy when you test but not solid if they are? Loosen again and light tight tap down and repeat process until you get the desired result

Once that's done I tend to use a pair of feelers (2 feeler for inlet and 2 for exhaust) on each valve bank 0.15mm on Inlet and 0.30mm and that 10 mm locknut? its NIP it up not wring it off 8nm

Have fun But they are an agricultural engine if you are used to 4 cylinders, so it may in the norm for us Old Hands but unsettling for you newbies

Tightening Cylinder Heads; Checking/Adjusting Valve Clearances; (Inspections I, Ii And Iii) - BMW R 1150 GS Repair Manual [Page 45]

View and Download BMW R 1150 GS repair manual online. R 1150 GS motorcycle pdf manual download. Table of Contents: Replacing If Necessary - Page 46; Final Inspection With Road Safety And Fu... - Page 47; Technical Data - Page 52; Cutaway Drawing Of Engine - Page 59; Lubricating-Oil...

www.manualslib.com

 

[Reevo]

Right
Up to this point I’ve changed oil tensioner and air filter and plugs
I’ve set tps
So should I set cables first get them to 2 mm
Then set tappets and end float
You are right Japanese 4s and 6s which I’m normally working on are very different
But I’ve got to be honest I’m loving the simplicity of it all
Wouldn’t fancy a clutch though
And thanks again for your patience
Must be like teaching a toddler to brush his teeth

 

[DrFarkoff]

Must be like teaching a toddler to brush his teeth

Nah Man We have done this every time someone "Discovers" how good these old things are

Now! Go Brush your teeth and get to Bed!!

 

[Wrigsby1]

One of the other rules of thumb with Oilheads is they are naturally noisier with more ticks and small rattles... On my 6 oilheads I may have set the endfloats once but can't remember... Valve checks are rare and my experience is they need little adjustment....
Things like throttle body spindle tick are common and an easy test is put you fingers against the inside of cable end and see if it goes away... Not harmful... The odd throttle body balance doesn't harm but don't get obsessive or start adjusting too much together... If it feels right then leave it... And so on...
Engine wise they are old tractors in bike terms and enjoy that fact... Big miles are achievable with only basic servicing. Enjoy those traits...

PS another check when sorting your TB cable free play is make sure there's play in the fast idle cable first...