Tight Final Drive bearing

[Captain25]

Hi
first of all thanks for all the help and info on here. I did as instructed about replacing the final drive on my R1100s all went to plan,. Buttttttttttt i have a small problem, The wheel feels a little tight, i thought if i run around for awhile it might loosen up, the wheel doesn,t spin easily. Methinks its the shim on the conical bearing, i read that it was to be left along when replaing the bearing.
Any thought of this?????????????
I have an orrible feeling i have to take bearing off and take out the shim!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Timolgra]

If you've only replaced the bearing then the shimming should remain as it was since the tolerance on bearing size is very fine.
Did you heat the bearing or drive it on with a sledge hammer
It also helps to heat the cover plate so the bearing outer drops in nice and square.
Of course it does depend on what you mean by tight, don't forget there's quite a few things turning will have resistance.

 

[KMD]

What's your interpretation of 'spin' Captain? There's a drive shaft etc to overcome in there too. Is there a definite feeling of resistence? any accompanying noise? Is it the same if you remove the rear brake caliper?

 

[Steptoe]

Why did you have to replace the bearings, what was the previous problem.

 

[Captain25]

well the bearing was totally shot, as soon as i took the oil seal out ,bits of bearing came out with it,
And yes a cleaned the shaft and drove the small bearing on with a socket fully home being careful not to damage the outer race,
When i say resistance or spin, it turns okay but am sure it will loosen up in time, and yes i replaced the pads as well,
Just one thing!!!!!!!!!! when i took the whole assembly off in the first place the conical small bearing just fell off no need for heat or anything.

 

[Grizzly]

Small Taper Bearing needs Re-Shimmed!

My understanding - and experience - is that you can replace the outer (large) bearing using the existing shim, but if you replace the small taper bearing you have to adjust the shim with that bearing to re-establish the correct back-lash in the gears.
I had previously replaced the large bearing a couple of times on my 1150 then, next time, decided the taper was also needing replaced.
I used same theory as Timogra on bearing tolerances & just left shims as they were -but after a trip to Spain/Majorca I was unhappy with occasional whining etc, so stripped again & found the gear teeth "polished" due to mesh being too tight
I think the tolerace theory works fine on the large single-row ball bearing, but the taper bearing - by it's very design I suppose? - means the slightest difference in diameter tolerances makes a fair difference in lateral movement??

Cheers......................Grizzly

 

[Captain25]

I actually didn,t find a shim on the main bearing, perhaps there was none in the first place

 

[Steptoe]

I actually didn,t find a shim on the main bearing, perhaps there was none in the first place

It sits in the cover and is easily missed if you've never seen one before. Bottom of the bearing space, you sometimes need to use a pick to get it to come out.

 

[fundura]

same as mine when replaced FDB, Fitted with care.Probably just newer seal. Mines still fine 1year on