Time for a new clutch.

[stratblue]

Hi All.

Slipping in 6th and a nice burning smell so time to replace. A few questions.

1. Anything else that would be wise to do at the same time?

2. Bearing in mind q1 how much do you reckon I should be paying? I'll be using an indie.

3. Been feeling a pulse in the clutch lever today when applying throttle, I'm assuming this is connected, what causes that?

Thanks.

 

[Pukmeister]

A pulsing clutch when applying throttle is probably the clutch slipping and grabbing as it rotates.

Have you checked the reservoir level for excess clutch fluid? As the clutch naturally wears, the fluid level in the reservoir RISES. Once it gets too full the fluid has nowhere else to go and puts a bit of clutch on for you, causing unwanted slip.

I'm not saying that's your issue, but its easily checked and eliminated. Just open the reservoir and if full, syphon off a tiny bit of fluid.

Parts alone for the clutch job are in excess of £400. Labour is about £500+ at a dealers.

 

[TLSgazza]

How old is your bike and what's the mileage? ,
You have checked the handguard I take it ?

 

[NicD]

If you have to do clutch, worth replaceing input shaft seals (front and rear)

With swingarm out also worth checking drive shaft, final drive, swingarm bearings etc

 

[stratblue]

How old is your bike and what's the mileage? ,
You have checked the handguard I take it ?

2011, 45,000 miles, I had a look at the lever and I can't see any interference.

 

[stratblue]

A pulsing clutch when applying throttle is probably the clutch slipping and grabbing as it rotates.

It's a single pulse, away from me as I apply throttle, not something regular or a vibration.

Have you checked the reservoir level for excess clutch fluid? As the clutch naturally wears, the fluid level in the reservoir RISES. Once it gets too full the fluid has nowhere else to go and puts a bit of clutch on for you, causing unwanted slip.
.

It does look very full and very dark, I'll do this today.

Parts alone for the clutch job are in excess of £400. Labour is about £500+ at a dealers.

Crikey.

 

[stratblue]

If you have to do clutch, worth replaceing input shaft seals (front and rear)

With swingarm out also worth checking drive shaft, final drive, swingarm bearings etc

Is this a job for Mikey boy then?

 

[Pukmeister]

If your clutch fluid is very dark it could be contaminated........ This one time, at band camp, we were in Gap in France and diplomaticdanny had a slipping clutch then lost his clutch action completely, his clutch fluid was black. We bought some LHM+ hydraulic fluid and flushed his clutch fluid through in a supermarket car park which restored the action.

If you change your clutch fluid NO NOT USE DOT4 BRAKE FLUID as it will destroy your clutch cylinder seals. USE A MINERAL OIL ONLY like LHM/LHM+/Magura Royal Blood/Vitamol V10.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Popell]

Most been said previously, mine was done at dealer in York,not because clutch was worn but it had been contaminated by a weeping shaft seal so get those replaced at same time.
Total cost was around 700 smackers.

 

[Steptoe]

If you have to do clutch, worth replaceing input shaft seals (front and rear)

With swingarm out also worth checking drive shaft, final drive, swingarm bearings etc

If the seals aren't leaking then leave them alone... i've seen far too many instances of perfectly good seals being replaced and new seals leaking.

Swingarm doesn't come off when replacing the clutch.. you need it attached to the subframe so you can wheel the whole rear end away from the bike.

 

[NicD]

When I had clutch replaced the mechanic said it was a no-brainer to replace input seals as they frequently fail, hence my suggestion. That could be wrong though, but makes sense to me.

Out of interest, do you think the replaced seals you see have failed because they were replaced, and if so were they fitted properly? On 7 year old bike with 45k miles, are existing seals more likely to fail than new ones, or vice versa? Would be interested to know. Thanks

 

[Steptoe]

The most common seal that I see leaking is the counter balance shaft seal, now and again ( couple times a year) a gearbox input shaft seal, rear crank seals I see once every few years ..

 

[NicD]

Thanks. Seems uncommon enough not to be a big issue then