Tips for engine swap on 1150 GS

Mike F

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Hi

I'll be swapping out the engine on my 2002 1150 GSA in a month or two. Never done one before, so any advice welcomed. Not so much a step by step guide how to do it the best way (but do feel free to point me to a thread if there is one), more sharing the things you wish you knew when you first did one.

Mine is a 65,000 bike thats had a hard life of late doing a few rallies and green lanes. The outer sheath on the wiring up by the bars is cracking so I'll be having a close look at the wiring but hope a good going to with insulation tape will suffice.

So all I have on my list so far is...

Try and find somewhere with the ability to strap the bike up, to drop the engine out.

New clutch bolts from Sherlocks (they do a kit I believe).

Clutch alignment tool needed.

Its got a new Hall Sensor fitted.

I'll give the replacement engine a full service once in, so will get a set of consumables lined up.

Thats it - pretty short list so far.

Are there any things that I would be crazy to not do while I am going to all this hassle - for example are there bushes or the like that are buggers to get to that don't cost much that I should just do while i am at it?

Advice from the wise much appreciated.

Tnx, Mike F
 
Mines stripped at the moment. It's not so much a case of dropping the engine out, but more taking everything off until the engine is all that's left.

On the top of the engine at the rear where the rear subframe bolts on, there's a stud that goes right through the engine with a nut either side (number 3 in the picture)

http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated...ts&bindName=Engine_Suspension&bindCat=46_0599


Mine had corroded itself to the engine (it's usually a case of undo one of the nuts, then tap the stud through). I had to remove everything so as the rear frame was loose, then gently bend the frame over the stud, leaving the stud in the engine.

It did come out with gentle heat applied to the engine where the stud goes through (hot air gun, NOT naked flame!), when it was quite warm ( got it to about 85 degrees) wound one of the nuts on using spacer washers to 'pull' the stud out.

Apart from that it was pretty straightforward, lots of bits though!

If you get stuck give me a shout, I work in reading....
 
You might s well replace the clutch whilst its apart, not just the clutch bolts.

Tom
 
Try and find somewhere with the ability to strap the bike up, to drop the engine out.

You don't drop the engine out.

Everything is bolted/attached to the engine.

You remove all the parts bit by bit. And then you re-attach them one by one to your new engine.
 
As discussed Mike, you are welcome to do this job in my workshop. I have everything needed to do the job apart from any knowledge.:)

I've got a Haynes manual and a socket set, what more do you need?:D

For the wiring, it is better to use heat shrink wrap rather than insulating tape as it results in a much neater job.

Also we are near to Sherlocks so if you need any bits we can easily get them.

And if you haven't finished it by Airhead Weekend, then Steptoe might be able to help put it back together. :) I'll just have to take down my Maggie Thatcher posters before he gets here.:D
 
not sure why you think its 'knackered ' at 65K ??

have u checked compression ?

No but I suspect compression is fine.

If you heard it I suspect you'd concur its knackered. Sounds like little ends are done.

I split the oil line to the oil rad at the Hafren, didnt realise 'til the end of the special. A quick fix and fresh oil and all appeared well. Ran fine for 6 months of commuting duty but a slight rattle has quickly become a significant rattle. I didnt think she'd get me home last night.

Could take the barrels off I guess and fix it but who knows what might go next.

Got what seems a good engine so lets give it a whirl. I'm sure Sid's got a big hammer to go with his socket set so we'll be fine.

Whats the verdict on clutches, opinion seems divided.
 
You don't drop the engine out.

Everything is bolted/attached to the engine.

You remove all the parts bit by bit. And then you re-attach them one by one to your new engine.

So starting the job with the engine on a decent stand is a sensible plan then. I believe I have such a stand from DaveG of this parish....

I can see there being quite a but of stuff in the boot when I drive down to Sids (& thanks again for the offer, I shall come suitably laden with biscuits and tea).
 
No but I suspect compression is fine.

If you heard it I suspect you'd concur its knackered. Sounds like little ends are done.

I split the oil line to the oil rad at the Hafren, didnt realise 'til the end of the special. A quick fix and fresh oil and all appeared well. Ran fine for 6 months of commuting duty but a slight rattle has quickly become a significant rattle. I didnt think she'd get me home last night.

Could take the barrels off I guess and fix it but who knows what might go next.

Got what seems a good engine so lets give it a whirl. I'm sure Sid's got a big hammer to go with his socket set so we'll be fine.

Whats the verdict on clutches, opinion seems divided.

if you can see an old clutch of unknown history...change it
 
if you can see an old clutch of unknown history...change it

Its my clutch, that didnt come with the engine. So fine as it goes but its got 60k miles on it. In for a penny in for a pound, any recommendations on best source for a new one, I guess they are all much of a muchness.
 
Couldn't believe the noise coming from mine. Thought it was terminal. Scrimingers replaced scuffed followers and now quiet as a mouse.
 
Clutch

Had to get a new engine in my 1150 after 100k+ after an accident. Original clutch still in it and now approaching 110k. If it was me, I'd stick with it, but then I'm a tight twat:D
 


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