Toasty toasty...DIY heated garment kit.

I also bought a kit from the same company and sewed it into a quilted long sleeved ex-army coat liner from a local army surplus store for £8.50 :thumb
 

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Hmm..might be worth a call to find out the amperage or at least the diameter of the cables.....looks a little thin but it might do..cheers!! :thumb
 
Just spent two hours sewing with my Mum. We bonded :thumb

All the cable got used, two extra loops on the front to what the instructions show, if we hadn't then we'd of been left with the amount Fanum chopped off. Just got to connect the "cold tails" and the plugs. (technical term for the cable that doesn't get hot, I used to install trace heating on pipework :) )

Mounted the Rheostat supplied by Activmoto last night. I should be nice and toasty next weekend :bounce1
 
...can someone post some pictures showing the various lead etcs. Does it need to be connected direct to the battery or will it work with the socket?
 
Activmoto - will your Rheostat work on my chilli vest, as the original controller is gubbed????
 
Garryc said:
Activmoto - will your Rheostat work on my chilli vest, as the original controller is gubbed????
Yes it will work with the Chilli vest :thumb

But you are not a fully paid up Tosser so GDO
 
what are peoples thoughts about plugging these things into the bmw accessory sockets?

kit says to wire their socket direct to the battery & the fuse is on some pretty hefty wire, certainly compared with what bmw wire the sockets with.

anyone know what are the BM sockets are rated at?
 
cookie said:
what are peoples thoughts about plugging these things into the bmw accessory sockets?

kit says to wire their socket direct to the battery & the fuse is on some pretty hefty wire, certainly compared with what bmw wire the sockets with.

anyone know what are the BM sockets are rated at?


I think that the wire thickness with fuse (looks like 17amp), is overkill, you should not need any thicker than 5 amp, i have clan heated gear also and the wire is 5 amp and there is a "y" connector enabling to connect another garment into the same 5 amp lead
 
ianboydsnr said:
I think that the wire thickness with fuse (looks like 17amp), is overkill, you should not need any thicker than 5 amp, i have clan heated gear also and the wire is 5 amp and there is a "y" connector enabling to connect another garment into the same 5 amp lead

i agree having just spent an hour trying to fit that giant cable into a car cigar lighter socket :rolleyes:
 
cookie said:
i agree having just spent an hour trying to fit that giant cable into a car cigar lighter socket :rolleyes:

I used it on my electric toaster :D
 
cookie said:
what are peoples thoughts about plugging these things into the bmw accessory sockets? kit says to wire their socket direct to the battery & the fuse is on some pretty hefty wire, certainly compared with what bmw wire the sockets with. anyone know what are the BM sockets are rated at?

1200 GS:

The 1200GS power socket is rated to 10 amps as per news from BMW:

We can confirm that the Canbus aux power socket is ok up to 10 amps then it will stop working until the consumer is unplugged.
We hope this is of assistance to you.
Yours sincerely
Paul Adams
Product Information Advisor
BMW Motorrad UK
Tel: 0800 777 155
Fax: 0870 5050 206
Email: [email protected]
 
The wiring supplied with the kit is certainly over-rated for the job it's got to do, but that's good.....they could have skimped on the wire but they didn't, which tends to give me confidence in the whole set up.

I tend to want to overspec what I add to the bike as well....keep the weakest point in the circuit the fuse as it should be.

The BWM sockets will take it no problem....

I'm still after some decent heavy duty curly cable...Having played with a lump of ciggy socket extension cable i wasn't happy with it and still want to find some rubber coated 15-17 amp twin core for my set up.
 
The fuse that comes with the kit is 10 amps (over sized in my opinion), why would you want cable rated any higher than this?

The cable that comes attached to the fuse holder is over sized as it's got to be able to cope with the largest size fuse that could be fitted in the holder. Theres no need to try and match it if your only going to be drawing 5 amps.
 
Whatton said:
The fuse that comes with the kit is 10 amps (over sized in my opinion), why would you want cable rated any higher than this?

Er...cos otherwise the cable becomes the fuse??
I'd agree the fuse may be slightly overated but the cable HAS GOT TO BE higher rated than the fuse ;)





Whatton said:
The cable that comes attached to the fuse holder is over sized as it's got to be able to cope with the largest size fuse that could be fitted in the holder. Theres no need to try and match it if your only going to be drawing 5 amps.

Hmm fair point, though that's certainly not the case in most other appliances that use blade fuses..the wiring is rated for the application rather than the max rating the fuse could have.

20mm glasss fuses can be rated way above that...I use 20amp 20x5mm fuses in some Merkin kit and I've got blade fuses in my Saab at 50amps..so in fact, I call bollix to your last point ;)
 
The kit draws 5 amps, so a cable rated at 10 amps is fine.

A cable rated at 10 amps won't become the fuse as you say, it will run hotter if you pass a higher current through it. While a fuse rated at 10 amps is designed to melt and open circuit if you pass a higher current through it.

The fuse holder and the cable thats attached to it are off the shelf items that the guy putting the kit together has bought. The cable has to be large enough to cope with the largest fuse that could be fitted. The guy putting the kit together didn't attach the cable to the fuse holder, thats how it's manufactured.

What have glass fuses got to do with it, your rambling man.

Sorry to blow your theory out of the water Fanum, but if you feel safer stick a big cable in if you want, it won't make any differance :thumb
 


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