Tobers, I've got a problem

[MiGSel]

Tobers,

I have fitted the Tobinators last week. Now I would like to move the screen high and towards me, but then the edge of the screen touches the edge of the Tobinator.

As far as I can see, I can't move the screen more back then the vertical position it is in now. And as I still experience quite a bit of turbulence at eye height, I would like to move the whole thing a bit more to the back.

Am I doing something wrong?

Cheers,
Michel

 

[mrTickle]

Tobers dremeled a small chunk of plastic from all the Adventure Tobinators he fitted at Princetown. Here's a picture of what he did...

 

[MiGSel]

Yes, I have seen that in the online pics, but that is not where the problem is. The screen is touching the front Tobinator bit if I tilt it to the back...

 

[Tobers]

Hi Michel,

Yes, I've had this as well. The lower lip of the screen curls in just a bit too far, and can rub against the front lower allen bolt or front edge of the front Tobinator riser.

Unfortunately, because of the shape of the screen, there is not a lot that can be done. I have thought about re-profiling the front Tobinator riser, which I may have to do eventually. However, you're still going to have the problem anyway as the front mount has a boss sticking out which will hit the screen as well.

There is enough flexibility in the screen to have it nuzzling against the front riser when leant fairly far back.

I suggest you try dipping the rear Tobinator riser a bit, as that will result in the screen leaning back more which is the way I have mine.

Cheers

Tobers

 

[MiGSel]

Hi Tobers,

I tried "dipping the rear Tobinator riser a bit" but that doesn't really do it for me.

I would like to move the screen more towards me without tilting it back. Like the animated pic on your site shows...

I think the thing to do is reprofile the front riser, as you said. If necessary cut off a bit of that boss. If you make the front bit the same thickness all over and chamfer the edges a bit, it will be a big improvement I think.

I am tempted to try that myself, but it will ruin the black finish of course...

Cheers,
Michel

 

[Tobers]

Hmm - but if I do that (reprofiling) then there will be nothing at the front of that riser for the bolt and washer to grip onto, so it will go all floppy.

Another suggestion:

Try having the front in a lower position so the bottom of the lip of the screen clears the front riser. The lower edge of the screen curves in a lot so there is space where it bulges outwards to fit the riser into.

This will enable you to lean the screen further back.

You will of course find that you cant do up the lower allen bolt with the screen in that lower position, so you have to position the risers first, tighten them up, then put the screen onto the risers.

This is the reverse of the normal fitting procedure which is to fix the risers to the screen then the bike. I'm suggesting you fix the risers in position on the bike then fit the screen to the risers.

Keep me posted how you get on.

Cheers

Tobers

 

[MiGSel]

Originally posted by Tobers
Try having the front in a lower position so the bottom of the lip of the screen clears the front riser. The lower edge of the screen curves in a lot so there is space where it bulges outwards to fit the riser into.

I don't see how that will help, as the distance between the mounting hole in the screen and the protruding bit of the front riser remains the same.

 

[Muppet]

Don't see why you can't just cut of the small part of the screen where it touches the Tobinaters?

 

[Tobers]

Yes - see what you mean. It would give you space for the bolt head but not the front edge of the Tobinator riser.

A small shaving of screen will do the trick. But I run mine with the lip of the screen touching the front riser and just put up with the small nick it creates in the screen edge.

Its a tricky one as the front riser needs to be that shape so the bolt & washer can bite properly over the whole range of the slot's adjustment.

 

[MiGSel]

A small shaving of screen will do the trick.

That would need to be quite a chunk! Sorry, no thanks.

Its a tricky one as the front riser needs to be that shape so the bolt & washer can bite properly over the whole range of the slot's adjustment.

I don't see what the problem is really. I have removed the bolt that goes through the front riser into the mounting piece with the boss to make sure. There is no thread in the protruding bit! So why not cut off half of the boss and make the front riser the same thickness top to bottom?

If you chamfer the front edge of the riser a bit too, you'll win quite a lot clearance.

Cheers,
Michel

 

[Tobers]

Hi Michel,

Interesting idea to trim the height of the boss on the BMW mount. This would work for those Adv kits where I supply the BMW mount. For those who already have the mounts they would have to carry out some surgery on the boss themselved.

Actually, thinking about it, I think that the boss on the BMW mount is actually an insert. It could therefore be possible to manufacture a replacement shorter insert/boss rather than irreperably hacking the existing boss to pieces.

I'll have a look tonight and see if it is possible to remove and replace this insert easily - it might be glued in.

If possible, then I'd also have to make up front risers to fit as you mention i.e. with a lower profile.

Then I'd be able to maintain the currently componentised kits across the range i.e. the same risers for all three models of GS.

Cheers

Tobers

 

[Tobers]

So, after some experimentation I have found that it is possible to push out the insert/bush in the standard mounting bracket.

This does mean I could make up a different insert which is shorter than the standard one, and as a result reduce the thickness of the front Tobinator riser accordingly. If you want to revert to your standard non-Tobinated setup, then you just put the old bush back in.

This would therefore solve the front riser clearance issue.

I'll do this on the next batch of Tobinators - the Mk5's, once the current batch is exhausted.

Thanks Michel for your question on this, which triggered enough thought process on my behalf to sort this.

 

[MiGSel]

Much better, thanks.

So I suppose you'll be sending me the updated materials in exchange for my professional after sales overseas advanced engineering customer input?

 

[Gecko]

Do I have to pick them up ?

 

[Tobers]

Jeez - I dont know - everyone is on my back at the moment. I'm off down the pub.

 

[waterhouse]

While you're working on the Mark 5 you could re-think the instructions, particularly the inch square photos which don't identify whether they are left or right hand.

It all went together eventually after some head scratching and consultation with the resident 14 year old. But nowhere close to 25 minutes. And that's without attempting surgery on either the bits or myself

So far only tried it upright, when it acts as a barn door rendering 6th gear unusable. I guess 68 more positions to try.

 

[Tobers]

Bigger photos - OK, shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Not having to redo your instructions are you Tobers... (snigger)

 

[Tobers]

OK ok Rob - that's 1-all then

Anyway, I've just had a conflab with my very clever precision engineering mates Richard, Richard and Wayne. They think that reducing the thickness of the front riser's lower boss will compromise the strength of that piece too much.

Therefore, I've had to have a re-think which has not yet finished. In the meantime, for the next batch I put out, I'll be putting a chamfer on the edges of the front riser's boss so it isn't so sharp edged.