Is your spindle bent??
I've seen that before
I've seen that before
Stantion rod - got a problem
- Thread starter Slipperyeel
- Start date
NicD
Registered user
I think I might have slackened off the front shock lower mount bolt too. Then re-threadlocked and re-torqued after fork clamp bolts
Don't think so... it turns consistently, I mean no tight spots as it turns. It also looks ok as it's turned, though I appreciate that's not a great way to check it!
I'll get it off and onto the surface plate... Wheel is off right now.
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Hmmm... would that influence anything? My thinking is, the shock and telelever arm can only move up and down?
But it'll be easy to do. I'll give it a go
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Right. I got back out there and had another go. I also read the manual.
In the manual, it says to connect the stanchtions to the top yoke AFTER the spindle is fitted and lower clamp is torqued up. So this is what I did and it went some way to helping ie. there was not so much resistance on the spindle as it neared the end of its threaded travel. Previously I had offered the stanchtions up into the yoke and just put the nuts on to hold them there.
So I'm a little happier. I pushed it off the centre stand a few times to 'bump' it. First thing I'll give it a short run to see how the handlebar alignment is. For some reason I'm not optimistic... not sure why tho?!
Rolled the spindle on the surface plate and it looked fine. A lathe world be much better, but that's over at a mate's workshop.
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In the manual, it says to connect the stanchtions to the top yoke AFTER the spindle is fitted and lower clamp is torqued up. So this is what I did and it went some way to helping ie. there was not so much resistance on the spindle as it neared the end of its threaded travel. Previously I had offered the stanchtions up into the yoke and just put the nuts on to hold them there.
So I'm a little happier. I pushed it off the centre stand a few times to 'bump' it. First thing I'll give it a short run to see how the handlebar alignment is. For some reason I'm not optimistic... not sure why tho?!
Rolled the spindle on the surface plate and it looked fine. A lathe world be much better, but that's over at a mate's workshop.
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No test ride today. Maddening. Aging mum, weather then chores prevented me getting out 
. Now it'll have to wait a bloody week as fully committed next week !@#$%!
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. Now it'll have to wait a bloody week as fully committed next week !@#$%!Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
(RIP) Bin Ridin
Registered user
A bit frustrating but no biggy. Highly unlikely to be anything wrong that you cannot solve in a short space of time. I found I could get the front wheel aligned to rear wheel by sighting from front along the front tyre and equalising the bit of rear tyre I could see on left and right of the front tyre. I then looked at the handlebars and could see if they were straight or not (mine are not bent, would be impossible if they were)... I think I measure from handlebar end left and right to centre of rear rack.... Took a few goes but got there.
Bit late back with an update. Working like a protestant and then I had to travel.
So today I got the bike out for that bloody test ride... Handlebars are definitely improved! But there's a but. They're not as perfectly true as I would like. Trying to decide if I should just live with it. But that's not me when it comes to this stuff.
Funny how such a stupid bloody thing can be so annoying. I think part of the issue is the wide bars. 2mm out at the yoke is like a cm or more out at the bar ends.
I think I need another bod to help me. I think I need to disconnect the sliders from the upper yoke, loosen the lower yoke and wheel, then yank it to the left while someone holds the front wheel... After that with the lower yoke torqued up, I'd like to think that would be it.
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So today I got the bike out for that bloody test ride... Handlebars are definitely improved! But there's a but. They're not as perfectly true as I would like. Trying to decide if I should just live with it. But that's not me when it comes to this stuff.
Funny how such a stupid bloody thing can be so annoying. I think part of the issue is the wide bars. 2mm out at the yoke is like a cm or more out at the bar ends.
I think I need another bod to help me. I think I need to disconnect the sliders from the upper yoke, loosen the lower yoke and wheel, then yank it to the left while someone holds the front wheel... After that with the lower yoke torqued up, I'd like to think that would be it.
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Did you check the new (SH?) stantion from MW is straight? Assuming it is SH its likely come off an accident damaged bike and could be bent!!
It's a good thought. But on this occasion, the stanchtion is all good. I've checked the spindle also.
I'm wondering if I should just leave it. It's better than it was before I even took it apart!
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NicD
Registered user
This is prob a dumb and someone prob asked already, in which case ignore. But are the bars themselves straight, and are they spaced evenly in the clamps - pretty much 100% of the time bars aren't accurately centered. Like i said though, likely irrelevant
That's not a stupid question at all. When I had the bars off to do the steering bearing I discovered they were not central by a good 5-6mm, even though there are punch marks to aid centralising them! So now they're central at least.
For the bars not being straight. I hadn't really thought hard on this. But that's because what I'm lining up - to see the alignment - is in fact the top yoke. It's the yoke that's not straight and therefore the bars are also out.
Short of taking the bars off, got any tips on how to check them?
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NicD
Registered user
its a good quesiton. not sure. you can check the angles on bars by getting something that fits one angle and comparing it to the other. be creative here - maybe a piece of cardboard or similar. and check visually from above etc. otherwise if you remove is much easier
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