Top Dead Centre Tool - 2017 R1200GS Adventure

Boxflyer said:
A end is 8mm diameter
B end is 6mm diameter.
Click to expand...

I'm taking my tools over to my friends house on Friday, he wants to do the Valve Clearance Check and Cam Alignment first on a 2014 GSA

Because he's only just done a full Oil and Filter replacement, he was asking if he needed to change his oil again.

I honestly didn't know? I would assume the oil would be replaced as part of the normal service when this work is carried out. BUT does the oil need to be dropped just for a Valve check and cam alignment?

We understand some will be spilt and lost when the heads come off, but is there any other reason why the oil needs to come out? Friction on clutch for TDC etc? Or will we lose too much when the Cam Chain Tensioners are removed?
 
Warlord said:
I'm taking my tools over to my friends house on Friday, he wants to do the Valve Clearance Check and Cam Alignment first on a 2014 GSA

Because he's only just done a full Oil and Filter replacement, he was asking if he needed to change his oil again.

I honestly didn't know? I would assume the oil would be replaced as part of the normal service when this work is carried out. BUT does the oil need to be dropped just for a Valve check and cam alignment?

We understand some will be spilt and lost when the heads come off, but is there any other reason why the oil needs to come out? Friction on clutch for TDC etc? Or will we lose too much when the Cam Chain Tensioners are removed?
Click to expand...

Just get a couple of poundland washing up bowls, drop the oil in, and then put it back in later, and top up, nothing wrong doing that, and if you have a few magnets around drop them in the bowl, so any metal filings around will be caught in the bottom.
 
Smogbob said:
Just get a couple of poundland washing up bowls, drop the oil in, and then put it back in later, and top up, nothing wrong doing that, and if you have a few magnets around drop them in the bowl, so any metal filings around will be caught in the bottom.
Click to expand...

So the oil does need to be dropped? What's the main reason for this Shaun?
 
Smogbob said:
No I was saying if you have to drop the oil you can use it again.........;)
Click to expand...

Just had the answer posted to me....

No, you do not have to remove engine oil. You lose about 250ml from head removal, but can be topped up.

The crankcase oil is not contaminated or effected by this valve check and cam alignment procedure :cool:
 
Warlord said:
Just had the answer posted to me....

No, you do not have to remove engine oil. You lose about 250ml from head removal, but can be topped up.

The crankcase oil is not contaminated or effected by this valve check and cam alignment procedure :cool:
Click to expand...

:thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb you still need a poundland bowl...........:D
 
Boxflyer said:
Glad you got your answer...glad I could help...
Click to expand...

Yes thank you, your video's have been brilliant.

My friends bike will be done on Friday, and my bike will be done either this week or next week.

Will be interesting to see how far out the cam alignment is on both bikes.
 
Warlord said:
Yes thank you, your video's have been brilliant.

My friends bike will be done on Friday, and my bike will be done either this week or next week.

Will be interesting to see how far out the cam alignment is on both bikes.
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Or not at all...........:D and waste of money and effort.
 
Smogbob said:
Or not at all...........:D and waste of money and effort.
Click to expand...

Haha I very much doubt it.

Every single bike I've seen checked in on-line videos or thread posts, was out of alignment from the factory. I haven't seen one single engine cam alignment tool go straight on without adjustment. It may also answer some engines being rattly, lumpy or difficult startup's.

In fact..... it makes me think how many Hilltop bikes go for remapping with cams out of alignment. Some are probably really bad with wear as well. So anything Hilltop do is surely compensating for bad alignment in the first place?

You're better off checking cam alignments first, getting that all done nice and then going to Hilltop to get it's Voodoo feather ritual
 
Warlord said:
Haha I very much doubt it.

Every single bike I've seen checked in on-line videos or thread posts, was out of alignment from the factory. I haven't seen one single engine cam alignment tool go straight on without adjustment. It may also answer some engines being rattly, lumpy or difficult engine startup's.

In fact..... it makes me think how many Hilltop bikes go for remapping with cams out of alignment. Some are probably really bad with wear as well. So anything Hilltop do is surely compensating for bad alignment in the first place?

You're better off checking cam alignments first, getting that all done nice and then going to Hilltop to get it's Voodoo feather ritual
Click to expand...

Will be very interesting to see, and Actually just came across this...........talking about voodoo and so, but apparently not for the LC......:blast

https://brentuningmoto.com/product/bmw-r1200-all-air-and-watercooled-handheld-mail-in/
 

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Mine was Hilltopped before being checked for cam alignment.

It now runs about 2 degrees cooler (mind you, the air temps at the moment are nothing to write home about) and gets a few more miles from a tank. Burbles nicely too :D
 
Well, just done all the Valve Checks and Cam Alignment.

All valves in range, so thats great.

The cam lockout tool fitted both sides when there was no cam chain tension tool in situ. Just the normal cam chain tensioner.

However, as soon as you set up the cam chain tensioner tool, 3 clicks, the cam lockout tool then doesn't fit.

So I had to realign both sides.

Anyways the fookin thing started first time, so I've not killed it yet :D
 
What wasn't made clear to me was how the TDC Lockout Tool is used.

Working on the left hand side cylinder, the TDC Lockout Tool needs to use pin 'A'

Working on the right hand side cylinder, the TDC Lockout Tool needs to be reinserted to use pin 'B'

This then correctly aligns and secures both sides at the correct position for valve checking etc.
 
Warlord said:
What wasn't made clear to me was how the TDC Lockout Tool is used.

Working on the left hand side cylinder, the TDC Lockout Tool needs to use pin 'A'

Working on the right hand side cylinder, the TDC Lockout Tool needs to be reinserted to use pin 'B'

This then correctly aligns and secures both sides at the correct position for valve checking etc.
Click to expand...

So was anything out of spec..........;)
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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