Torque settings

kwallace21

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Hi guys,
I promise to write this down this time. Can anyone remind me of the torque settings for the sump plug and the oil filter for my 04 GSA.

Many thanks
Kev
 
11 nM oil filter

32 nM sump plug

30 nM gearbox filler/drain

23nM rear drive fill/drain

20 nM spark plugs
 
thanks for that Boon. Does anyone know the ft pounds conversion. Should have metric on my wrench I think.

k
 
You need a torque wrench for the oil filter and sump plug :eek:

How do you manage to get the correct torque, when the sump threads and plug will have oil on them :nenau
 
How do you manage to get the correct torque, when the sump threads and plug will have oil on them

I have lost sleep worrying about this. In the end I took all the plugs to a special place and had them professionally de-oiled. Bit expensive but worth it for peace of mind.
 
ok guys,
I figure I asked for that. One and a half elbows for the plug and one elbow for the filter it is then.
Ta
 
Just thinking out loud, but it would be great if we could gather up all the torque settings and add them to a sticky... perhaps in the "parts and exploded diagram section" where we already have a sticky.

I have a torque wrench, only ever used it for the wheels of my car and replacing a bike brake disc, but would feel much better if I knew where to get a link to the Gs torque settings!
 
Here

Hi guys,
I promise to write this down this time. Can anyone remind me of the torque settings for the sump plug and the oil filter for my 04 GSA.

Many thanks
Kev

Just thinking out loud, but it would be great if we could gather up all the torque settings and add them to a sticky... perhaps in the "parts and exploded diagram section" where we already have a sticky.

I have a torque wrench, only ever used it for the wheels of my car and replacing a bike brake disc, but would feel much better if I knew where to get a link to the Gs torque settings!

This should help you guys...:thumb2
 

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OH MY GOD!!!

I have lost sleep worrying about this. In the end I took all the plugs to a special place and had them professionally de-oiled. Bit expensive but worth it for peace of mind.


what a completely pointless exercise. these bolts that you de-oil will get coated in oil when you come to put them back in - particularly the drain plugs!! how can you avoid it?? and why would you want to??

Having oil on them absolutely WILL NOT affect the torque settings in any way - IN FACT having oil (or indeed copper slip) on them will be a huge help in preventing them from seizing. The vast majority of the fixings on my bike have been treated in this way. Just reading this section shows what can happen when a bolt seizes and the threads are damaged. you''re faced with a nightmare that can rapidly become worse and end with a large bill. and I have no intention of that happening to me.

If a bolt has to be 'dry' - then it will say so clearly in the Haynes (or Clymer) and if the GS has any that 'must' be dry then I've yet to encounter them.
 
these bolts that you de-oil will get coated in oil when you come to put them back in

Sorry should have explained better :blast After they are de-oiled they are given a special coating that rejects oil so they are always oil free. That way you know the torque is always correct.
And I alwys use a new crush washer every time. Never had a problem so far. :thumb2
 
The authors of the service manual aren't that daft :rolleyes: Torque settings for fasteners which will unavoidably be lubricated (like drain and fill plugs) are specified taking this into account. In other words, these fasteners actually need to be lubricated in order to set the correct torque.

In the case of BMW sump and drain plugs, the torque is actually absorbed by the crushing of the new washer, so its immaterial if the thread is lubricated or not (hence the stipulation to always use a new crush washer). Expensive de-greasing and oil inhibiting treatment of sump plugs is completely pointless.

I hope Steptoe doesn't see this :eek
 
Sorry should have explained better :blast After they are de-oiled they are given a special coating that rejects oil so they are always oil free. That way you know the torque is always correct.
And I alwys use a new crush washer every time. Never had a problem so far. :thumb2

still pointless matey.. because as I said oil on a bolt will have no effect whatsoever on the torque. but will save you all sorts of problems. The bolt will be highly unlikely to seize. Always a risk of this with a stainless steel bolt fitted into an alloy thread. Which is why its always recommended that a smear of copper grease be applied. (or lithium grease in a high temperature application)
 
C'mon all you 1200 owners, Feck off back to your own bit of the Forum....:blast


Nods did they use the newer Bronze/Moly Cadmium coating on your sump plug or the older one ?
 
My point exactly :augie

Theres a time and a place for torque wrenches and oil filters and sump plugs are not it, or spark plugs for that matter :rob

Quite :thumb2

I couldn't get a torque wrench on my spark plugs if I tried - the only tool I've got that fits down the tunnel is the OEM tool kit plug wrench.
 
I don't bother using a torque wrench for any of the oil drain plugs - I just use new crush washers. I've never had one leak yet, nor have I stripped a thread - same goes for the rocker covers. I only use a troque wrench on critical fixings e.g. head bolts, brake caliper bolts etc.
 


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