Torque settings

[Stewart H]

I don't bother using a torque wrench for any of the oil drain plugs - I just use new crush washers. I've never had one leak yet, nor have I stripped a thread - same goes for the rocker covers. I only use a troque wrench on critical fixings e.g. head bolts, brake caliper bolts etc.

+1
Stewart

 

[ian6760]

My point exactly

Theres a time and a place for torque wrenches and oil filters and sump plugs are not it, or spark plugs for that matter

+1 for myself, but I wish the plumb I bought my GS off had owned one, because there was loads of nuts / bolts was over tightened when I bought it. He had even striped a few threads then just left them, so there are a few helicoils on my bike now.

 

[motobiker]

I do.. (with the drain plugs in particular) even though i've been doing this job for years. takes just two seconds to check that its the correct torque. for my own peace of mind thats 2 seconds well spent. never found a bolt to be less than the torque setting mind. but so what? sods law and all that.

 

[Noddy]

Nods did they use the newer Bronze/Moly Cadmium coating on your sump plug or the older one ?

I was unaware there was a new formula. I guess I must have the earlier version as it was done a couple of year back.
Any clue as to the change?

 

[Noddy]

Torque settings for fasteners which will unavoidably be lubricated (like drain and fill plugs) In other words, these fasteners actually need to be lubricated in order to set the correct torque.
Expensive de-greasing and oil inhibiting treatment of sump plugs is completely pointless.
I hope Steptoe doesn't see this

So are you suggesting that the factory actually lubricates the plugs before fitting them to new engines etc before adding the oil.

 

[motobiker]

So are you suggesting that the factory actually lubricates the plugs before fitting them to new engines etc before adding the oil.

 

[MattW]

So are you suggesting that the factory actually lubricates the plugs before fitting them to new engines etc before adding the oil.

Interesting that you chose to edit the quote of my previous post why would you do that?

Anyway, once again, what I am suggesting is that it makes no flippin' difference because you're using a new crush washer! The applied torque is absorbed by the (incomplete) deformation of the washer - the lubrication or otherwise of the threads makes no difference because you'll get no where near deformation of the sump material. The crush washer is made of annealed aluminium and is much softer than the sump, so lubrication doesn't matter - this is why they say you 'must' use a new washer! Have you ever noticed the horrid 'give' you experience when torquing up new crush washers (feels nastily like a thread stripping)? This is plastic deformation of the washer under the torque loading.

If you choose to reuse a washer then all bets are off (I often reuse the washers on gearbox and FD fill plugs but I don't torque them - I just snug them with a standard socket wrench).

If you can't get this straight in your head, should you be attacking your bike with spanners in the first place?

 

[Noddy]

Interesting that you chose to edit the quote of my previous post why would you do that?

Just to see how far it would go Matt.

Few clues.

Plugs professionaly de-oiled.

Special coating that rejects oil.

Bronze/Moly cadnium coating. (Cheers Beetle)

Factory lubricated plugs.

Total complete and utter bollox.

BTW. I sometimes just turn the crush washers upside down before refitting them.

 

[MattW]

Just to see how far it would go Matt.

Few clues.

Plugs professionaly de-oiled.

Special coating that rejects oil.

Bronze/Moly cadnium coating. (Cheers Beetle)

Factory lubricated plugs.

Total complete and utter bollox.

BTW. I sometimes just turn the crush washers upside down before refitting them.

Bas*ard!

That's what I get for posting after the pub

 

[MMC]

Sorry should have explained better After they are de-oiled they are given a special coating that rejects oil so they are always oil free. That way you know the torque is always correct.
And I alwys use a new crush washer every time. Never had a problem so far.

Christ - I hope you were joking about that cadmium coating. Under the high temps the oil can reach in the sump you can get flakes of cadmium coming off and clogging the oilways - with disastrous consequences!

I've had mine done with particle-plated Irridium. Much more temperature stable and won't flake.

















Still just nip it up and use a bit of PTFE and a blob of BluTak mind

 

[Stewart H]

I dont like the PTFE tape option on the drain plugs, my Mole grips cant get a proper grip.
Stewart

 

[MattW]

Did someone say something?

Can't hear you - la la la la la