I am just about to swap over my wheels. Does anyone hnow the torque settings for the disks, calipers and rear wheel bolts? Also, should loctite be used on the disk bolts??
Thanks in advance .
Thanks in advance .
Torque Settings
- Thread starter ianran
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For me, maybe not for everybody, 75ft lbs on the rear wheel bolts, common sense feel on the others and a smear of Copaslip on everything!
You're NOT supposed to use Copaslip on wheel bolts or the bolts on brake calipers. The torque setting is for DRY, otherwise the bolts will not be done up correctly and you run the risk of the bolts shearing or threads stripping before the torque setting is reached. Oh and don't use loctite.
Deleted account 211025001
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Rear wheel torque is only 60nm. (44 ft-lbs) dry.
I said my answer was not for everybody, I use Copaslip or Anti Scuffing paste on everything, (nearly all my bolts are stainless) I have always done this and always will do, I have never had a bolt come undone, shear or strip so that will do me. I do put Loctite on the odd bolt that is specific, but it's rare, I also paint mark important bolts. Thank you for your concern!
Looks like the rest of us are doing it wrong.
Absolutely not! Each to his own. I may just have been lucky perhaps.
Bendy toy
Registered user
I personally don't like Copaslip it's just too greasy. But a good high solids anti scuffing paste is a very good idea on stainless bolts. For stainless into aluminium a marine grade is even better if not mandatory.
Regarding torque settings - yes a dry setting will risk stripping a lubricated fastener. But what does lubricated mean? It's a minefield so I hardly ever use a torque wrench, preferring to feel when the bolt is tight. I've not yet had anything fall off.
Wheel bolts are an exception the hub flange isn't massively built and one damaged thread = big money repairs. Apart from the safety issues.
BTW Loctite will also affect the torque setting. If the spec says Loctite at N ftlbs then fine. But if the spec is for dry threads it risks another stripped thread.
BTW 2. Torque settings are used by the factory because the operators don't have time to feel for every thread. Also they use a lot of power spanners.
Joe Soap in his garage has time to do the job properly by hand.
Sent from a widget that can't spell.
Regarding torque settings - yes a dry setting will risk stripping a lubricated fastener. But what does lubricated mean? It's a minefield so I hardly ever use a torque wrench, preferring to feel when the bolt is tight. I've not yet had anything fall off.
Wheel bolts are an exception the hub flange isn't massively built and one damaged thread = big money repairs. Apart from the safety issues.
BTW Loctite will also affect the torque setting. If the spec says Loctite at N ftlbs then fine. But if the spec is for dry threads it risks another stripped thread.
BTW 2. Torque settings are used by the factory because the operators don't have time to feel for every thread. Also they use a lot of power spanners.
Joe Soap in his garage has time to do the job properly by hand.
Sent from a widget that can't spell.
I'm curious to understand if anyone has done measurements to show the difference between 'dry' and 'greased' torque pressures - i.e. is it just a few or much greater percentage or is it theory only?
It makes sense that the effective 'greased' numbers are much higher but equally if the thread is corroded etc does that mean that the actual torque pressure is lower?
It makes sense that the effective 'greased' numbers are much higher but equally if the thread is corroded etc does that mean that the actual torque pressure is lower?
when you buy new gen bm disc bolts they come pre locktited.
this where some experience and skill comes in handy. you can then dispense with the torque wrench in many instances and do the fasteners up by feel
Bendy toy
Registered user
Fasteners with the blob of dry thread lock won't suffer the same risk of over tightening because it won't lubricate threads like the liquid stuff.
The required torque reduction for lubed threads should already have been sorted out. It's hardly a new issue.
http://www.mechanicsupport.com/bolt_torque.html
Sent from a widget that can't spell.
The required torque reduction for lubed threads should already have been sorted out. It's hardly a new issue.
http://www.mechanicsupport.com/bolt_torque.html
Sent from a widget that can't spell.
Quick question, do I need to replace disk bolts or is loctite ok to use? also, is the diference in bolts dictated by the year of the disks? Im fitting earleir alloys to my Twin Cam gSA.
Deleted account 211025001
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Dunno about different bolts but can't imagine they would have changed?
Re Loctite it's fine to reuse the bolts just use a semi permanent Loctite.
Andres
Bendy toy
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Mine have been on for nearly a year using normal grade threadlock. Anything tougher could be a big problem when the bolts need to come out again.
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