I was a bit anxious before setting off. It has been a while since going off on my own, unplanned, despite numerous French cycling holidays where I’ve just turned up to France on the ferry and cycled until I found somewhere to sleep. Silly really but a few words of encouragement from my wife and friends had me looking forward to it
The plan was go to Scotland. Motorbike about Scotland a bit. Come home.
I had planned to set off on Wednesday evening but was worried about the windy conditions, riding on the A1 in rush hour and being blown across lanes so I set off Thursday morning just after 8.00.
By 13.00 I'd reached Redesdale Camp for lunch just a few miles south of the border.
After the A1 I went up the A68 which is a great road. I got cold and wished I'd got my heated waistcoat with me, not for the last time. It was sunny when I left so decided not to take it.
Soon I was approaching the outskirts of Edinburgh and went around the motorway and over the Forth Road Bridge to Perth.
Perth looked a bit built up and didn’t appeal to me so I continued on.
I popped into a village just off the A93 as there was a B&B sign on the main road for a pub in the village. However they wanted £90. I said that was too rich for me and she asked how much would I pay. I said I'd go up to £60. The lady asked the assistant manager but apparently b&b can't be done for less than £90 in that village. They obviously don’t need money to run that business. If I’d stayed, had dinner and a couple of beers that would have been an extra £30 too.
I carried on to Blairgowrie and found a superb B&B 10 minutes walk from the centre of the town. Rosebank House. The couple running the B&B were new to the area and were looking to build business and were keen to attract motorcyclists too. I would certainly recommend them.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/17906540139" title="IMG_3445 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5467/17906540139_4d057250f4_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_3445"></a>
I had a beer in an adequate bar and a great curry in the local Indian restaurant.
Blairgowrie is a good kick off point to the highlands.
Friday
I awoke early and drifted in and out of consciousness until 7.00
Got dressed and packed the bike before having breakfast. A full Scottish was available and looked good, but I asked for a bacon and black pudding sandwich and wasn't disappointed.
I set off to Braemar and then the road over the top to Tomintoul. A fantastic road with quite a few very steep bits. Made even more challenging by a freezing cold and extremely strong sidewind.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/18093757281" title="IMG_3450 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5463/18093757281_6197421043_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_3450"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/17470226184" title="IMG_3451 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5336/17470226184_b586dfdc38_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_3451"></a>
After Tomintoul I headed for Grantown On Spey and took the smaller of the roads to Inverness which then joins the A9. The wind was gusty and all the way I found myself gripping the bars and my right shoulder started to ache a bit.
I was going to stop in Inverness but saw a sign to Ullapool so carried on.
The weather started to deteriorate and the road to Ullapool (which is great) was into a headwind all the way. So much so that I was having to fight to keep the bike at 60 mph.
I arrived in Ullapool and found it wasn't the birthplace of The Beatles but a freezing cold blustery fishing port. I was cold and approaching miserable.
I shivered into the local Tesco and used their facilities before buying some lunch. Looking at the map I found I was at a bit of a dead end. You stupid twat, I thought.
I noticed that my mate Jon had called so called him back. He was jealous of my trip and gave me the enthusiasm to carry on, rather than find a b&b, not top myself.
I put on an extra jumper, fleece buff and winter gloves and carried on.
I reviewed the map and went back along the road I'd arrived on, struggling this time to keep the bike at 60 mph as I was being pushed by the wind. After this 77 mile diversion (worth doing for the road by the way) I decided to make my way to Fort Augustus. More lovely roads although I was nearly taken out by a Tesco delivery van who pulled out to overtake just as I was along side him. Wanker. He knows who he is.
During this part of the journey, the weather improved and it was positively summer as I arrived in Fort Augustus and filled up with fuel.
Looking around Fort Augustus I stopped at a B&B with false advertising. Rooms from £42.50
Can I have a single room please. Yes that'll be £62.50. Your sign says £42.50? That's per person for two sharing. I retired politely thanking him for his time.
I then had a look for another b&b but nothing appealed. I went to try another road and saw a sign for a campsite. £9. Fabby. The campsite at Fort Augustus has the best quality turf I’ve ever camped on. The pegs almost went in by themselves.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/18093830621" title="IMG_3454 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5460/18093830621_9047a01463_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_3454"></a>
I put up my tent, got changed, used the facilities and paid for my camping. I then found a pub, The Bothy which sold beer.
After two pints I spotted another pub so had another before finding a cheeky fish and chip shop which saved me having to light up the stove. I sat at the side of the lock (yes on the canal) eating my dinner with great views of the mountains and the loch.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/17904975408" title="IMG_3456 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8824/17904975408_ded8be303c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_3456"></a>
Walking around Fort Augustus I reviewed what I was wearing. Pretty much stuff that I could fold up to fit on the bike. I thought 'refugee chic' but to any onlooker I probably just looked like a bag of shit, tied up ugly.
Upon returning to the campsite I found a gaggle of smaller inferior motorcycles had arrived.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/17472393703" title="IMG_3459 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8871/17472393703_e7e1b6d5d1_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_3459"></a>
I sat down at a picnic table and was harassed by a dog which had been clearly trained to annoy the English.
It was nearly 8.00 so I retired to bed hoping that I was able to wake up and set off before it rains.
Saturday
I awoke to glorious sunshine. Whilst taking my tent down I got chatting to the other bikers. They had been out for a week on small bikes, CZ, MZ, scooters etc. taking their time on their route. They’d lost two of the bikes due to engine failure, probably because of the constant riding and the steep hills.
I packed up and set off to Fort William for breakfast. A bacon and black pudding sandwich and a coffee. For £2. I paid and left before the chap changed his mind.
I travelled through Glencoe and along Loch Lomond. There was an enormous amount of traffic coming the other way. Every lay-by was full of parked cars. The place was packed. A fair amount of progress making was required to get past the traffic going my way until I got down to the Erskine Bridge.
Greenock sounded nice so I headed towards there until I felt I wasn’t really going the right way so I came off that motorway at the first junction and headed back to Paisley on the A8 and via the road around the back of the airport. I filled up with petrol and followed my sat nav (on my phone) down the A77 to Kilmarnock and then the A76 to Dumfries.
I couldn’t really see a better way of avoiding Glasgow and motorways and if you’re looking for a route out of Scotland and you have time, the A76 is fantastic. I will be using this route again, A77, A76 and A75. It is a good route out of Scotland and takes you to the top of the M6 just north of Gretna.
A junction or so down the M6 and I went into Carlisle, filled up again and continued to Keswick.
Keswick was full. I could see that I wasn’t easily going to get a B&B so I continued to Grasmere where I stopped to use the facilities (20p), then continued to Ambleside.
During my time in Grasmere and approaching Ambleside I noticed that pulling my clutch lever, wasn’t entirely having the desired effect and I couldn’t get into neutral at a standstill. In fact, a standstill was becoming difficult.
After a quick trip around the main B&B road in Ambleside I spotted one which had a sign up saying that they had one single ensuite room. There was a woman sitting on a bench outside so I asked her if she was staying there. She wasn’t but she popped in to find the proprietor for me. £45. Done. Parked on the road around the back.
I took my bags in and then went back to the bike and using spanners, adjusted my clutch. For those of you not familiar with spanners, they are like wonky bits of metal with open jaws at each end, apparently.
I found a very nice Thai restaurant and then retired for the evening.
Sunday
For breakfast I’d ordered a bacon and black pudding sandwich. Very nice, with mustard and ketchup.
Packed up the bike and set off via Windermere, Kirkby Lonsdale, Skipton, Keighley, Halifax, Huddersfield, Barnsley, Doncaster, Newark and home. A bit like getting out of Scotland. I’m not sure of a decent non motorway route from the north avoiding Manchester, Bradford and Leeds.
My route is a bit long winded as you go though the heart of the industrial north. Good to see but not if you’re in a rush.
Overall I had a great trip, covered a lot of miles (about 1250) and really enjoyed myself. I didn’t take many pictures as I was riding pretty much non-stop apart from petrol stops.
The plan was go to Scotland. Motorbike about Scotland a bit. Come home.
I had planned to set off on Wednesday evening but was worried about the windy conditions, riding on the A1 in rush hour and being blown across lanes so I set off Thursday morning just after 8.00.
By 13.00 I'd reached Redesdale Camp for lunch just a few miles south of the border.
After the A1 I went up the A68 which is a great road. I got cold and wished I'd got my heated waistcoat with me, not for the last time. It was sunny when I left so decided not to take it.
Soon I was approaching the outskirts of Edinburgh and went around the motorway and over the Forth Road Bridge to Perth.
Perth looked a bit built up and didn’t appeal to me so I continued on.
I popped into a village just off the A93 as there was a B&B sign on the main road for a pub in the village. However they wanted £90. I said that was too rich for me and she asked how much would I pay. I said I'd go up to £60. The lady asked the assistant manager but apparently b&b can't be done for less than £90 in that village. They obviously don’t need money to run that business. If I’d stayed, had dinner and a couple of beers that would have been an extra £30 too.
I carried on to Blairgowrie and found a superb B&B 10 minutes walk from the centre of the town. Rosebank House. The couple running the B&B were new to the area and were looking to build business and were keen to attract motorcyclists too. I would certainly recommend them.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/17906540139" title="IMG_3445 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5467/17906540139_4d057250f4_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_3445"></a>
I had a beer in an adequate bar and a great curry in the local Indian restaurant.
Blairgowrie is a good kick off point to the highlands.
Friday
I awoke early and drifted in and out of consciousness until 7.00
Got dressed and packed the bike before having breakfast. A full Scottish was available and looked good, but I asked for a bacon and black pudding sandwich and wasn't disappointed.
I set off to Braemar and then the road over the top to Tomintoul. A fantastic road with quite a few very steep bits. Made even more challenging by a freezing cold and extremely strong sidewind.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/18093757281" title="IMG_3450 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5463/18093757281_6197421043_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_3450"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/17470226184" title="IMG_3451 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5336/17470226184_b586dfdc38_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_3451"></a>
After Tomintoul I headed for Grantown On Spey and took the smaller of the roads to Inverness which then joins the A9. The wind was gusty and all the way I found myself gripping the bars and my right shoulder started to ache a bit.
I was going to stop in Inverness but saw a sign to Ullapool so carried on.
The weather started to deteriorate and the road to Ullapool (which is great) was into a headwind all the way. So much so that I was having to fight to keep the bike at 60 mph.
I arrived in Ullapool and found it wasn't the birthplace of The Beatles but a freezing cold blustery fishing port. I was cold and approaching miserable.
I shivered into the local Tesco and used their facilities before buying some lunch. Looking at the map I found I was at a bit of a dead end. You stupid twat, I thought.
I noticed that my mate Jon had called so called him back. He was jealous of my trip and gave me the enthusiasm to carry on, rather than find a b&b, not top myself.
I put on an extra jumper, fleece buff and winter gloves and carried on.
I reviewed the map and went back along the road I'd arrived on, struggling this time to keep the bike at 60 mph as I was being pushed by the wind. After this 77 mile diversion (worth doing for the road by the way) I decided to make my way to Fort Augustus. More lovely roads although I was nearly taken out by a Tesco delivery van who pulled out to overtake just as I was along side him. Wanker. He knows who he is.
During this part of the journey, the weather improved and it was positively summer as I arrived in Fort Augustus and filled up with fuel.
Looking around Fort Augustus I stopped at a B&B with false advertising. Rooms from £42.50
Can I have a single room please. Yes that'll be £62.50. Your sign says £42.50? That's per person for two sharing. I retired politely thanking him for his time.
I then had a look for another b&b but nothing appealed. I went to try another road and saw a sign for a campsite. £9. Fabby. The campsite at Fort Augustus has the best quality turf I’ve ever camped on. The pegs almost went in by themselves.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/18093830621" title="IMG_3454 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5460/18093830621_9047a01463_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_3454"></a>
I put up my tent, got changed, used the facilities and paid for my camping. I then found a pub, The Bothy which sold beer.
After two pints I spotted another pub so had another before finding a cheeky fish and chip shop which saved me having to light up the stove. I sat at the side of the lock (yes on the canal) eating my dinner with great views of the mountains and the loch.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/17904975408" title="IMG_3456 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8824/17904975408_ded8be303c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_3456"></a>
Walking around Fort Augustus I reviewed what I was wearing. Pretty much stuff that I could fold up to fit on the bike. I thought 'refugee chic' but to any onlooker I probably just looked like a bag of shit, tied up ugly.
Upon returning to the campsite I found a gaggle of smaller inferior motorcycles had arrived.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tuftywhite/17472393703" title="IMG_3459 by tuftywhite, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8871/17472393703_e7e1b6d5d1_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_3459"></a>
I sat down at a picnic table and was harassed by a dog which had been clearly trained to annoy the English.
It was nearly 8.00 so I retired to bed hoping that I was able to wake up and set off before it rains.
Saturday
I awoke to glorious sunshine. Whilst taking my tent down I got chatting to the other bikers. They had been out for a week on small bikes, CZ, MZ, scooters etc. taking their time on their route. They’d lost two of the bikes due to engine failure, probably because of the constant riding and the steep hills.
I packed up and set off to Fort William for breakfast. A bacon and black pudding sandwich and a coffee. For £2. I paid and left before the chap changed his mind.
I travelled through Glencoe and along Loch Lomond. There was an enormous amount of traffic coming the other way. Every lay-by was full of parked cars. The place was packed. A fair amount of progress making was required to get past the traffic going my way until I got down to the Erskine Bridge.
Greenock sounded nice so I headed towards there until I felt I wasn’t really going the right way so I came off that motorway at the first junction and headed back to Paisley on the A8 and via the road around the back of the airport. I filled up with petrol and followed my sat nav (on my phone) down the A77 to Kilmarnock and then the A76 to Dumfries.
I couldn’t really see a better way of avoiding Glasgow and motorways and if you’re looking for a route out of Scotland and you have time, the A76 is fantastic. I will be using this route again, A77, A76 and A75. It is a good route out of Scotland and takes you to the top of the M6 just north of Gretna.
A junction or so down the M6 and I went into Carlisle, filled up again and continued to Keswick.
Keswick was full. I could see that I wasn’t easily going to get a B&B so I continued to Grasmere where I stopped to use the facilities (20p), then continued to Ambleside.
During my time in Grasmere and approaching Ambleside I noticed that pulling my clutch lever, wasn’t entirely having the desired effect and I couldn’t get into neutral at a standstill. In fact, a standstill was becoming difficult.
After a quick trip around the main B&B road in Ambleside I spotted one which had a sign up saying that they had one single ensuite room. There was a woman sitting on a bench outside so I asked her if she was staying there. She wasn’t but she popped in to find the proprietor for me. £45. Done. Parked on the road around the back.
I took my bags in and then went back to the bike and using spanners, adjusted my clutch. For those of you not familiar with spanners, they are like wonky bits of metal with open jaws at each end, apparently.
I found a very nice Thai restaurant and then retired for the evening.
Sunday
For breakfast I’d ordered a bacon and black pudding sandwich. Very nice, with mustard and ketchup.
Packed up the bike and set off via Windermere, Kirkby Lonsdale, Skipton, Keighley, Halifax, Huddersfield, Barnsley, Doncaster, Newark and home. A bit like getting out of Scotland. I’m not sure of a decent non motorway route from the north avoiding Manchester, Bradford and Leeds.
My route is a bit long winded as you go though the heart of the industrial north. Good to see but not if you’re in a rush.
Overall I had a great trip, covered a lot of miles (about 1250) and really enjoyed myself. I didn’t take many pictures as I was riding pretty much non-stop apart from petrol stops.
With more time go further north to Cocoa Mountain at Durness for brilliant chocolates and hot chocolate that is better than any I've ever tasted elsewhere.
you are a true adventurer 
