Tyre changing at home

Captain Black

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I'm off to the TT tmrw on my PD , maybe I hadn't already mentioned that? :augie:D

Anyways, bought a couple of sets of the Metzler Sahara Enduro 3s, and I thought it would be a good self lesson to try and master changing these tyres with levers at home. No tubes to snag etc so I think I'll give it a go. Is it difficult or is technique everything ? I have two short tyre levers and one long one.:thumb
In the event I manage to swap my old Enduro 3s for new, what about self balancing the wheels ? Buy some weights and create some thing to spin the wheel on its axel, but where are the weights added ? :nenau

I just think it would be reassuring to know I could change a tyre on the road if needed. :D
 
Ive changed many sets of tyers have piles of old tyers to prove it. Never balenced one in my life. I read where its possible to do it with the wheels in sistu just make sure the breaks are not tuching the disc and spin the wheel by hand mark where it stops same again add weights to the opposite side if required. I just don't bother. JJH
 
Hardest thing is breaking the bead when removing them. Use plenty of water fairy liquid when putting them on and keep the tyre in the centre of the rim

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I break mine down in a bench vice. Use cardboard to protect rims. I bought a big tub of tyre mounting lubricant. Its usually white. I got black stuff. It's the 1 thing u can do to make the job easier. Use plenty and try to keep the bead in the well of the rim as you go. JJH
 
I find the type of tyre lever is critical even with tubeless tyres. I only use 2 and prefer these.

As said breaking the bead can be difficult, I use the sidestand on another bike even at home. You will need a compressor to inflate and seat a tubeless tyre.
 
I have one of those Aussie bead breakers that works a treat

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and one of those hang on the wall tyre balancers that work very well.
 
Be careful not to damage the brake disc, easy to do. Leave the tyre in the sun, if it's out, or else warm it up some other way, a warm tyre is much easier to fit. Watch some You Tube videos on the subject. The marker spot is lined up with the valve which is the opposite of years ago.
Make sure the tyre is right down into the well when you start levering or it is almost impossible to fit it.:beerjug:
 
Once the bead is broken kneel on the opposite side to where your planning to lever the tyre off this should keep the bead in the well, plenty of lube and don't rush it, two levers are enough for me and i use as big a lever as I can get away with, I also use rim protectors but a piece of rubber does just as well.
 
Don't buying any special tools to break the tyre bead.. Use a 6in G clamp.
Put it through the spokes and upwards (if you know what i mean) one side on the rim the other side on the tyre. Job done.

The rest of the job is easy.
 
I'll give it a bash when I return from the TT. I'm going tmrw..:bounce1

I've got a compressor , levers and I can get the 6" G clamp and some tape or old inner tube to protect the rim.

The wheels have balance weights on them so ill just run the bike with the new tyres on and see how it feels. I'll also lay the disc on the front on an old cushion on the grass. Front wheel first I think !! :D
 
These work:
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/accessories/warrior-tyre-changer-bead-breaker
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/tools-workshop/wheel-tyre-equipment/sealey-motorcycle-bead-tool-vs1821
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/tools...pment/sealey-motorcycle-wheel-balancer-vs1819

Try hair conditioner as a tyre lube. Cheap & readily available.
Clean the rim before trying to fit the new tyre.
If the tyre seems like it won't come off or go on -STOP - and think it through. If the tyre size is right it shouldn't be that hard.
Heidenau and Mitas can be bastards to fit and remove.
I always balance mine using a cheap balancer like above. If the tyre has a paint dot line it up with valve. Had some as much as 80g out. Adds to vibes and wear if not balanced.
Watch a few YouTube clips on tyre changing before starting.
 
On the balancing front the tyres have a spot on them to indicate where the lightest part of the tyre is to position next to the valve :beerjug:
 
Adding to whats been said, you need the tyre to drop into the well of the rim to give slack to lift the opposite side over the rim, so keep it pressed down at least 2 thirds of the tyre, you don't need big levers,
I have a pair of mountain bike levers in steel approx 8 inches, the trick is to take little bites around 2 to 3 inches apart , if it needs force take a smaller amount or push the tyre into the well of the rim further round,
Its all good practice use rim protectors and a bit of tape until you get the idea,, i just fitted 2 car tyres with the same levers on alloy rims,, i do prefer to balance tyres but it can be done later if you feel the need,,
Roamer
 
When you get it right the tyre will go on without using levers at all.
 
Like Smug says pros dont use levers - my guy has a BIG carpenters mallet and he shuffles backwards round the tire easing the bead over the rim with the heel of his boots , then gives the last 4 or five inches a decent clout with the mallet to get it over the rim.
Takes him about ten seconds, and never nipped a tube!
 
I just think it would be reassuring to know I could change a tyre on the road if needed. :D

This a good reason for having a crack, although with tubeless on the PD you would most times just plug a puncture without removing the tyre.

I do my own because I've given up on local bike tyre suppliers. Recently mates have had, from 'pro's'- 18" tube in 17" tyre resulting in a blow out, tyres installed backwards, bike returned with bead seating pressures in tyres, not checked.

If you buy your tyres online it can be hard to find a business to fit them.

Doing it yourself means you get to check out your rim, spokes, wheel bearings etc

Having said that, it's a shit of a job that I never look forward to. The tyre shop blokes make look easy with proper machine.
 


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