Vietnam Xmas 2024

I checked my mapping to decide where to go today and realised I was only 2 1/2 hours from Ha Long bay. So I rode down to the port quickly and bagged a 2 day 1 night cruise into the bay on a nice boat.
It's still sunny so should be lovely out there. I did similar last year but it was cloudy and a bit dull so I'm hoping it will be better out there. It'll give me a bit of luxury too for an evening.
 
I asked about getting on a cruise ship tomorrow but it turned out as I was there early they actually had room on that days boat that was leaving in about and hour and a half. When they quoted me the price I said that's more expensive than the website quoted.
It appeared they wanted to charge me twice as much because I was on my own and the price was per person sharing a cabin 😳
After a bit of negotiation I got them to deduct 1,800,000 dong. I still had to pay 4,800,000 though when the single price was 3,300,000. Oh well it was still just over £150.00.
I did get them to gift me the kayaking for free, I should think so too.
Boarded the boat at about midday and we trundled out towards the islands in amongst what seemed like hundreds of other cruise ships and smaller boats. Once again tourism is a good earner out here.
The islands and views are superb if not blotted out by the amount of ships out here. It was still lovely though. Apparently there are over 2,000 of them scattered around the area.
Lunch was had, buffet style. Lovely food.
Had a nice afternoon in the sun. We went to a small beach on a little island that had a tower on the top that I declined to walk up the hundreds of steps in amongst many tourists for the view. I stripped to my swimmers and went for a swim in the slightly chilly waters. Had a chat out there with an American couple who were travelling around also. The first proper English chat I've had in days.
We visited a pearl farm and I had my 45 minutes of kayaking. It was so beautiful, quiet and tranquil out there.
Wonderful.
Back to the ship and we moved off to get to the overnight mooring. Pleasant evening and a buffet evening meal.
The sunset was quite lovely.
I retired to my cabin by about 9.30 and read my book for a while and had a good sleep.
Up at 6am for a coffee and pastries. We are visiting some caves at about 07,30. They do cram a bit it in the time we have.
I'll post some pics when I get a better signal back on land .
 
The last photo above is my route today.
We Left the boat at around 11 am. What they call a 2 day cruise once again wasn't even 24hrs. It was nice though.
And we did see a good bit of the bay and the iconic limestone mountains again. I decided to just hack down the main roads to get south of Hanoi. I know this area is relatively flat and there are a lot of industrial areas as well as lots of traffic.
It was very busy getting out of Ha Long and most of the way along. Crazy truck drivers and coach drivers. But at least I could travel at 60-70 kph most of the time. 3 1/2 hours later and I'm in the area I wanted to be. Just short of getting back into the hills in Ninh Binh. South west of Hanoi. A lovely homestay here in a beautiful setting.
I didn't take a single photo along the way today. It really wasn't tourist friendly. But had to be done to get here. I should be back in the scenic stuff tomorrow.
180 Kms in 3.5 hours is a record so far 😜
 
Lovely sunset last night just 100 metres from the homestay.
Going going gone.
IMG20241223164055.jpgA very nice room for just £10.00 again.
 

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I headed off this morning in bright but a little cloudy weather.
I had intended to pay a visit to the largest Buddhist temple and tower in the whole of Vietnam, I could see the tower as I was approaching but in order to actually visit there was the world's biggest carpark and you had to then buy a ticket and go by electric vehicles up to the tower and temple. Too much faffing around so I couldn't be bothered. I stuck a route in to head north for a bit. Not far away was a river crossing. It consisted of a metal pontoon with a swing gate on it to let the huge barges through. As luck would have it I had to wait as there were 2 on their way down the river. 🙄
After they'd gone through the gateway was swung shut again and all the waiting bikes went through.
Had to pay a toll. 30.000 dong. Which is about 10.5 pence. 🫣
A little further along I came upon a shipyard for want of a better expression. 3 or 4 large barges being built literally at the side of the river next to the road. Loads of welding going on and a lot of hammering. Incredible.
Anyway I got onto the main road and made reasonable but boring progress north.
A busy road with a fair bit of traffic and many populated areas all the way along it. I got up to the Asia highway 13 again that I'd ridden about 13 days ago. Much less cloud this time so I could see more of the mountains.
I wasn't on it for long as there was a mountain pass I wanted to cross to get to a particular area. I knew it would be slow going again but that would be fine as I like riding those roads.
It was mostly concrete. Very broken up in places. Very steep and twisty on most of it. There were a few small villages on a sort of plateau very high up. Many terraced rice fields and orange trees.
It was breathtaking if not a little hidden away by the mist in the air.
The mountains in this area are huge and covered in a very thick jungle again.
I rode down the other very steep side and finally got down to the main road again. More terraced rice fields filling the valley I am now in. I headed north for a while to find a homestay for 2 nights, w reasons for that.
There is a lot in the area I'd like to explore and it's Xmas day tomorrow so I didn't want to be hunting for a place to stay on Xmas day afternoon .
Found a lovely place. It's a little cottage type room with a thatched roof and the view from my balcony is stunning if a little bit misty.
Though I suspect it could be chilly tonight up in the mountains.
A lovely couple running the place but it's very quiet this time of year. There are many resorts and home stays all the way up the mountain road here. It's so nice though. I shall have a good ride around the area tomorrow.
 
May I ask how you find these lovely home-stay places @TLSgazza is it simply a case of a Google search or is there a particular app you are using?

I am finding your report hugely inspiring to the point where I'm hoping to do similar in Spring of 2026. Thank you.
 
May I ask how you find these lovely home-stay places @TLSgazza is it simply a case of a Google search or is there a particular app you are using?

I am finding your report hugely inspiring to the point where I'm hoping to do similar in Spring of 2026. Thank you.
I'm using Google maps for the navigation. I have also downloaded maps from "style motorcycles" straight into Google maps from their website. They have some great routes highlighted as well as many places of interest. I'm not using these exclusively as I also like to choose some interesting small passes too. Once I decide what area I'll head to in the morning I'll have a quick look on Google maps to see if there are places available. Then when I get there I'll choose one. So far it's worked well. There are many motels around as well which I've used if I can't find a homestay in the area. Mind you that's only happened twice so far.
Here's the downloaded maps of the north from style motorcycles. Screenshot_2024-12-24-19-44-49-12_3d9111e2d3171bf4882369f490c087b4.jpg
 
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they just happen to be showing the vietnam top gear and they were at bit where they convert the bikes to boats and rip along the river

want to do that (the coast road too)

id love to do what youre doing but less gravel lol
 
What a lovely Xmas day.
Woke up to a lovely view but the usual hazy air. I don't think they ever have clear days this time of year. They burn everything.
It was 8am so time for some breakfast then heading off for some sight seeing.
The first place I headed for were the amazing water wheels that use the river water to basically pump the water up into the rice fields above. I had a brief look last year but was travelling south so didn't spend much time there.
There are so many of them along the river side, there could easily be 40-50 .
Fantastic ingenuity and so simple.
Beautiful to watch.
No-one knows how long they have used them for but it is said it is many many generations.
In the area there are also places where you can be punted around on bamboo rafts on the river. Though not much of that in evidence this morning.
I carried on to visit Dan's waterfall.
On the way I crossed a few bamboo floating pontoon bridges again and one bamboo suspension bridge. Very noisy and they really wobble around. 😳
Many Rough back roads on the way and the track to the waterfall was about 5 Kms of dirt track. I'm glad it's still dry.
3 young lads came over whilst I was there and we mucked about a bit. I showed them how to skim the flat stones across the pond at the foot of the waterfall. They were well impressed when I got one to bounce about 10 times and hit the bottom of the fall.
They got the hang of it quickly.
Cheeky little buggers.
After this another bamboo bridge and I headed up into the hills to another waterfall. Google maps took me on some very dodgy dirt tracks again. And then a narrow concrete path that I'm sure was about a 1 in 3 in places.
I'm not sure if I should have been riding down it but I carried on. Got to the waterfall and took a few photos.
then on the way back I ignored Google and found a more straightforward route. 🙄
I then decided to head north to a small village way down in the valley about 40 Kms back north .Another few dodgy broken up concrete roads. Then Google buggered me again. After about 2 Kms along a very dodgy muddy track very steep in places I came across an old woman who shook her head and indicated that I should turn round so I did and retraced my steps. I did see a footpath on the way that I didn't think I should ride down on the way there but decided to do it anyway.
Narrow, very steep but after a couple of Kms I got to the village.
Now I also knew there was a cave here. After finding the route to get to it another km or so along another footpath I arrived at the base of the path. Google maps said "arriving at bat cave"🦇🤣
I Paid the man there my 35p to visit the cave.
I walked up the steep path and arrived at the entrance. I was the only person there and shouted a few expletives. The cave was absolutely enormous. I was gobsmacked. Totally. I noticed the path went a little further round and I found some right steps in the rock face and decided to head down. As I descended the cave just got bigger and bigger. The photos just won't show but it was huge .
I descended to about 2/3 if the way down . It was a dodgy path with no hand rails or anything to hold on to. At this point looking back up I decided I'd best not go down any further on my own. And it was a long way back.
Climbed back up and marvelled at the sheer size of this cave again. Fantastic.
After this as it was now about 4.30 I decided to head back to the homestay.
Reverse route up the narrow concrete path and the broken up road. The last bit on some sublime tarmac in the mountains.
What a great Christmas day.
 


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