What a fecking daft arrangement ....!

[Greg Masters]

After my recent blast to Istanbul and back, I'm now doing a quick oil and filter change on my trusty steed, an 1150GS.

The bike is fitted with genuine BMW engine bars.

I'd clean forgotten that the filter change sequence is:

1. Remove seat
2. Remove r/h side panel
3. Disconnect tank wiring; breather tubes; 2 x fuel pipes
4. Unbolt tank and remove
5. Remove crossbar on engine bars
6. Remove engine bars (top bolts are behind tank!!!)
7. Remove sump guard
8. Remove filter and drain oil

Those engine bars should have got a design award!



Greg

 

[John Armstrong]

Does sound a big faff, ever had to use the crash bars for their intended use?

 

[MMC]

That's up there with having to remove the exhaust on a Ural 650 to get at the gearbox drain. There's a ruddy great balancer pipe in the way.

 

[Greg Masters]

....ever had to use the crash bars for their intended use?

Nope.

I think they are just bling. I only put them on because I was virtually given them.

Greg

 

[Cogs]

Nope.

I think they are just bling. I only put them on because I was virtually given them.

Greg

Maybe they couldn't be arsed re-fitting them?

 

[Greg Masters]

Maybe they couldn't be arsed re-fitting them?

They came from a fellow tosser who bought two sets for his company bike on expenses (don't ask why! )

Greg

 

[RadioActive]

I know it doesn't solve the crash bar problem but putting quick release connectors on the fuel pipes certainly makes the tank removal a lot easier.

 

[Greg Masters]

I know it doesn't solve the crash bar problem but putting quick release connectors on the fuel pipes certainly makes the tank removal a lot easier.

I agree - I've had them on there for several years.

Greg

 

[Dazlove]

Engine Bars

You could always dump the beemer bars and replace with Hepco and Becker.

No need to remove for either oil & filter change or tappet adjust.

And they protect well, mine have been down the road on quite a few occasions!

Regards

Dazlove

 

[Wrigsby1]

Had a set on 2nd GS. It messed up oil changes and made me fall off at Cadwell Pk when I leant over too far. Now without... and since stupid damper bolts snapped on sump guard have dispensed with that too. Now have very easy oil changes.

 

[rc mad]

the other gs bikes don't fare much better. To drain the oil on the dakar the sump guard, l/h front indcator and the l/h faux tank cover have to come off. Not as bad as yours but at least the twins have the heads out in the open. To do a valve check on the dakar involves the following

remove both front indicators
remove seat
remove left and right tank covers
remove central tank cover
remove airbox snorkel
remove airbox
drain oil from oil tank
remove expansion bottle
remove oil tank from mountings
remove battery
remove battery box
remove throttle cable and plastic radiator shroud
Remove head cover

It's at least a two hour job to check the valve clearances, the kicker is that they hardley ever change

Thank feck it only needs doing every 12k, shame the spark plugs need doing every 6k as it's pretty much the exact same procedure

 

[chad]

After my recent blast to Istanbul and back, I'm now doing a quick oil and filter change on my trusty steed, an 1150GS.

The bike is fitted with genuine BMW engine bars.

I'd clean forgotten that the filter change sequence is:

1. Remove seat
2. Remove r/h side panel
3. Disconnect tank wiring; breather tubes; 2 x fuel pipes
4. Unbolt tank and remove
5. Remove crossbar on engine bars
6. Remove engine bars (top bolts are behind tank!!!)
7. Remove sump guard
8. Remove filter and drain oil

Those engine bars should have got a design award!



Greg

ive never had to remove the tank or engine bars to do an oil filter change

or am i missing the blindingly obvious here

for me its sumpguard off

undo filter with filter tool flex crash bar to pop out filter

 

[MattW]

That's why I ditched the bars on my 1100 (although not quite the faff that you've had) - currently on the waiting list for some of Steppers head guards...

 

[Greg Masters]

or am i missing the blindingly obvious here

Yes.

If you have BMW bars on an 1150, you can't get the sump-guard off until you've got the bars off and you can't get the bars off until you've got the tank off.

Greg

 

[Surrey Yeoman]

Bloody glad I've got the H&B bars then!

 

[Major Gadget]

Bloody glad I've got the H&B bars then!

The only trouble with H&B bars is when you need to change the Alternator belt as I found out beside the road in Germany

 

[MattW]

The only trouble with H&B bars is when you need to change the Alternator belt as I found out beside the road in Germany

+1
Turns a five minute job into a right ballache.

 

[trotsky]

Yes.

If you have BMW bars on an 1150, you can't get the sump-guard off until you've got the bars off and you can't get the bars off until you've got the tank off.

Greg

That would be why the 1150GSA has two bolts half way down on each side that let you drop the bottom half of the bars off without removing the tank.

*Ticks off another bit of luck arising from decision to buy 1150GSA from Ming rather than 1150GS from someone else.*

 

[sockpuppet]

Yes.

If you have BMW bars on an 1150, you can't get the sump-guard off until you've got the bars off and you can't get the bars off until you've got the tank off.

Greg

I have BMW bars on an 1150.

The sump guard just un bolts from the bars/bottom of the engine. Then on the LHS bar undo the two bolts that holds the lower bar part on and move it slightly out of the way allowing the filter to drop out......preferably before you've loosened the filter so it doesn't drop into a pan of oil on its way down. DAMHIK.

Is there a difference between the GS/GSA?

Edit: I see there is a GS/GSA difference.

 

[Steptoe]

I

Edit: I see there is a GS/GSA difference.

It's not just the difference between the GS and GSA , it's also the difference between the early ( gregs examples) bmw crashbars and the later BMW crashbars.

The later standard GS bars have the detachable lowers a la the GSA.