What are the F800GS Aftermarket Clutch Options?

[Ceri JC]

From what I read online, hear from independant mechanics and off the record from BMW-related folk, the F800GS clutch life in general isn't great. This has been borne out with my own experience of it needing adjustment so much (and having so little adjustment left). I fear mine is not long for this world and rather than replacing it with another equally weak BMW part, I wondered what the other options were.

I've come across the "SuterClutch", which aside from the cost, seems very expensive and a bit overkill, with features like it being a slipper clutch. See page 70 of the Wunderlich catalogue.

Are there any options in the sub £1000 range that will improve longevity?

Conversely, anyone DIY'd it? I've changed clutches myself on other bikes, just wanted to check it's nothing out of the ordinary on the BMW. If there aren't any good aftermarket ones, I might just buy a set of BMW bits and keep them in my garage so that when it fails I can replace it ASAP, rather than wait the 6 weeks or so that garages seem to want before they can fit you in once there isn't snow on the ground.

 

[sijohnston]

I'm not sure who you're listening to, but your sources, unless they've flogged an 800 and taken the clutch apart themselves, are speaking on hearsay and aren't speaking from any place of authority on the issue. I can, and I will. 40k miles, much of which was heavy off-road (kazakh desert, Mongolia, Siberia) with massive amounts of feathering, and the thrust nut fell off the central spindle, so I took the clutch apart and inspected the plates. First of all, it's a properly built clutch, because it's made by Rotax who began by making heavy duty snowmobiles. From memory it's got 8 or 10 plates and after all of that hard mileage there was minimal wear. I've a new one ready to drop into it, but as it stands there's probably another 30k left in it, so I'll keep it on ice. So there you go, order yourself a BMW clutch and fear not about it being 'equally weak'.

From what I read online, hear from independant mechanics and off the record from BMW-related folk, the F800GS clutch life in general isn't great. This has been borne out with my own experience of it needing adjustment so much (and having so little adjustment left). I fear mine is not long for this world and rather than replacing it with another equally weak BMW part, I wondered what the other options were.

I've come across the "SuterClutch", which aside from the cost, seems very expensive and a bit overkill, with features like it being a slipper clutch. See page 70 of the Wunderlich catalogue.

Are there any options in the sub £1000 range that will improve longevity?

Conversely, anyone DIY'd it? I've changed clutches myself on other bikes, just wanted to check it's nothing out of the ordinary on the BMW. If there aren't any good aftermarket ones, I might just buy a set of BMW bits and keep them in my garage so that when it fails I can replace it ASAP, rather than wait the 6 weeks or so that garages seem to want before they can fit you in once there isn't snow on the ground.

 

[Ceri JC]

I'm not sure who you're listening to, but your sources, unless they've flogged an 800 and taken the clutch apart themselves,

Yes, there are people who I've spoken to IRL who've done just this. Conversely, I'd previously read online about a few people with high miles on their original clutches, but wondered if they were just people who gave it an easy life and seldom ventured offroad by the sounds of it, yours are "proper" high miles. I'll buy the parts and stick them in the garage; I'm sure I'll get through them at some point in the bike's life.

Thanks for putting my mind at ease sijohnston and what you say about Rotax makes sense to me too.

 

[mnb]

Some F800GS's have clutch issues.

I've had two total clutch failures in 12,500 miles. I ride 90% street and rarely slip the clutch at all, especially since the first clutch failure at 3600 miles stranded me 120 miles from home.

The new clutch isn't resolving the problems. Just before it was replaced, the bike did not want to shift when running when cold, especially into neutral. It was possible to shift when moving, though, but to pop it into neutral at a stop? Forget it. There may as well have been a bar blocking movement. Once it warms up well, it shifts fine.

Sounds like a clutch issue, right? So they open it up and the 2nd clutch (first replacement) was at minimum spec, had blued plates, the basket was scored and the bearing was shot.

After replacing all that, it still has the shifting problems. Drop it into first when cold with the clutch in and the bike lurches. Have the engine off and bike in first, clutch in and try to move the bike and there is noticable drag. I've adjusted the clutch with 1mm, 3mm and 5mm of slack in the sheath, all of which are to BMW spec depending on what your source is: the 2008 manual, the 2011 manual or the current service bulletin. The one that feels correct is 3mm, however the lurching, drag and shifting problems remain.

The shop's at a loss. I don't know what to do beyond dumping the pile of junk. It's too bad, it's a fine bike otherwise. I certainly can't take it on adventure rides with any confidence.

 

[ash_gs]

My clutch (650 not 800) went last week at 4,900 miles - burned out so badly that it had melted the dipstick and needed not only new clutch but also the top plate too I was told.

BMW replaced it under warranty, blamed it on a batch of dodgy plates - but the mechanic who did the work warned me it still wasn't shifting properly. It isn't - doesn't go into neutral from 1st, only from 2nd.

Also warned me to expect it will need considerable adjustment as it beds in, and it did! 6 miles home and all of the 5mm freeplay had been used up.

They told me to do 500 miles on it and see how it is after that - if no better than it will be back for a new basket too.

 

[v8legend]

The new clutch isn't resolving the problems. Just before it was replaced, the bike did not want to shift when running when cold, especially into neutral. It was possible to shift when moving, though, but to pop it into neutral at a stop? Forget it. There may as well have been a bar blocking movement. Once it warms up well, it shifts fine.

After replacing all that, it still has the shifting problems. Drop it into first when cold with the clutch in and the bike lurches. Have the engine off and bike in first, clutch in and try to move the bike and there is noticable drag.

Could this be oil related?

Oil is at its thickest when cold. Most bikes clunk in when cold, and get better when warm. I'm wondering if your oil is the correct viscosity, and that they're definately using bike oil not car oil. Is it synthetic/semi-synthetic?

 

[Big Den]

Could this be oil related?

Oil is at its thickest when cold. Most bikes clunk in when cold, and get better when warm. I'm wondering if your oil is the correct viscosity, and that they're definately using bike oil not car oil. Is it synthetic/semi-synthetic?

 

[mnb]

Could this be oil related?

Oil is at its thickest when cold. Most bikes clunk in when cold, and get better when warm. I'm wondering if your oil is the correct viscosity, and that they're definately using bike oil not car oil. Is it synthetic/semi-synthetic?

BMW dino oil (non-synth) from day 1. All service performed by dealerships... good service departments in the two I've used, too.

 

[lllBlll]

It seems a bit strange that some have troubles with their clutch. The driving instructor when i learn't to drive a motorcycle told me that the 658 which they used, had a tough clutch suited for students abusing it.

 

[Ceri JC]

Can I have a sanity check on the following logic:

Stronger clutch springs = less wear, but harder to operate.

Hydraulic clutch = easier to operate.

Therefore, Stronger clutch springs + hydraulic clutch should result in a clutch lever that is roughly the same in terms of force needed to operate it, but prone to less wear on the clutch.

 

[LukasM]

Can I have a sanity check on the following logic:

Stronger clutch springs = less wear, but harder to operate.

Hydraulic clutch = easier to operate.

Therefore, Stronger clutch springs + hydraulic clutch should result in a clutch lever that is roughly the same in terms of force needed to operate it, but prone to less wear on the clutch.

More or less, yes. If the cable you are using has little friction (e.g. is new, teflon lined etc) then the difference will be less, but if it's old and worn it can be very noticeable.

The ultimate solution would be using a slipper clutch assembly. Due to their construction they require less effort to pull, but will tighten up as the engine RPMs increase. Suter makes one for the Rotax 800 engines, excellent piece. Of course there is a trade off, significant cost in this case...

http://www.suterclutch.com/forge/shop.cgi?cmd=browse&shop=3&forge_menu=169&category=156