What engine oil should I put in my 1200?

oils for 1200gs

use this one that you will hear the less noise from the bike.
please be carefull with the china oils put in a serius companies bottles.
 
demandcurve said:
A wet clutch is not the only reason to use bike oil, with a dry clutch other reasons to use a bike oil still exist:-


Bike engines rev higher and pistons/cylinders get much hotter than in car engines - this is especially relevant to aircooled engines: car oils could evaporate from bike's hot metal surfaces leaving them unprotected.

To cope with high speed moving parts bike oils have a much greater shear stability than car oils.

Car engines have larger sumps so car oil has a lot less work to do than a bike oil.​


Bike oil is developed in expensive laboratories by people with tall foreheads, consider before sticking Halford's car oil in your engine.

Tony
Click to expand...

Bike oils are manufactured to lubricate gearbox parts as well as engines. so contain shorter polymers.

BMW have seperate gearboxes so only need engine oil, which contains longer polymers. :D

And the engine revs on a modern car are usually higher than on a GS.
 
polymers :blagblah Did my goose at christmas have the right polymers :nenau I reckon it's the best oil / fat you can buy. I can supply this oil / fat at only £12.00 a litre to UKGsers. IT'S THE BEST OIL / FAT You Can Buy P.M. me if you want some
 
I was informed that 10W 40 fully synthetic was put in my 04 1200GS when I bought it. Only done 30 miles or so on it since I bought it at the beginning of December.

Do you reckon it'll be ok with that oil or should I change it ASAP?
 
I've read up on multiple oil-sites.
As a consequence I'm using a 10W-50 synthetic in my R12GS.

10W gives better cold starts, and better starts in the cold, than 20W. Storage in shed where it freezes during winter, and I ride through low temps. In Spain I'd use a different xxW.
50 because BMW says so (behaviour at high temps, and our boxer gets hot, see lean burn).
Synthetic because it doesn't deteriorate over time, nor does it go acid (icy roads or snow mean storage without the need for oil change). As a benefit oil and fuel consumption is looooooow.

For those who say that the boxer doesn't rev high : depending on model year up to 8500 rpm.
BMW M3 V8 maximum rev is 8400 rpm. Porsche 911 GT3 max power is at 7900rpm.

My bike's my baby, and my baby gets the best. By comparison I don't care what oil is in my lawn mower.
 
If Synthetic oils are that much better than ancient dead sea creatures, why would you wan to put this into an engine that hasn't fully bedded in ???

Surely the whole point is to bed the motor it in, then put a "superior" lubricant in..... not stop it or prolong it.
 
Iwas told similar to what is in the attached link many years ago by a well respected engine tuner, a real engineer and tefal head.

I follow this advice on running in bikes, on my ZZR I did this, I sold it today and before it went I checked oil - about 2mm below maximum line, it was on the maximum line after the last oil change....

Over 3,000 miles ago, including over 2500 miles in the Alps, a few one up blasts ans the odd Sunday ride-out.

Interesting BMW seem to at least partly agree:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212289&page=4
 
Read the article first!

It points out most quoted research about running-in practices was based on testing done on WW2 aircraft engines.

By many years ago I mean late 80's when this chap was tuning the t*ts of my RG500 and warned of just bimbling at a steady speed using low throttle causing a bad seal or bore glazing.

This article I came across appears more scientific as this chap has stripped many engines that have been run-in both ways, I am not preaching, just saying it is an interesting article and you can choose to run in as per war ministry recommendations circa 1939, or by one of the top engine tuners in the US.
 
Rasher said:
Read the article first!

It points out most quoted research about running-in practices was based on testing done on WW2 aircraft engines.

By many years ago I mean late 80's when this chap was tuning the t*ts of my RG500 and warned of just bimbling at a steady speed using low throttle causing a bad seal or bore glazing.

This article I came across appears more scientific as this chap has stripped many engines that have been run-in both ways, I am not preaching, just saying it is an interesting article and you can choose to run in as per war ministry recommendations circa 1939, or by one of the top engine tuners in the US.
Click to expand...

I am not arguing :-) but late 80's was 20 years ago! things have moved on in all areas of technology a lot in the last 20 years.
 
'tis a better man than me who asks this question................true biker to the core...............can't fault 'em
 
My point is most manufacturers recomebndations as still rooted in what was considered correct in 1940!

In 1980 things were changing, not sure when the internet article was first written, but guessing within last 10 years.

No idea why manufacturers don't put any science into break-in recomendations, but then many now run-in on the bench, and I bet that is not for 1,000miles at low speed!
 
Rasher said:
My point is most manufacturers recomebndations as still rooted in what was considered correct in 1940!

In 1980 things were changing, not sure when the internet article was first written, but guessing within last 10 years.

No idea why manufacturers don't put any science into break-in recomendations, but then many now run-in on the bench, and I bet that is not for 1,000miles at low speed!
Click to expand...


Probably because its darn site easier to put the umbrella up and write, 'take it easy and don't thrash it'.

How do you draw up a manual that recommends that the rider of a new machine gives it a bit of a sensible spanking? What a can of worms that would be. To wash their hands of any mechanical fault / accident a big company's legal team are going to shy away from any sort of advice other than 'Here is your new bike, get used to it gradually and treat it very gently to start with'. :(
 
The running in procedure for the 2010 GS is a little different to the previous models - 5,500 rpm limit and only for the first 200km, 6500 for next 200km, 7,500 for the next 200km - then max rpm for short distances up to 1,000km.

In the old days of the earlier 1200s and 1150 they said keep rpm below 4,000.

Progress in material and oil technology perhaps??? - BMW recommend fully synth in the new engine - there is no longer any of this 'wait for 10,000 miles' to make sure it is properly 'bedded in' - things change! often people don't :-)
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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