What engine oil?

[Engineer]

Who with a 1200GS in this thread is likely to keep it for more than 20K miles before changing/part exchanging it for the latest newest model when the current warranty runs out.

The amount of time most most owners now keep their bikes, they could use cooking oil and their engines will still be fine when it's time to P/X them.

I am up to almost 19,000 miles on my 1200GS in two years and will probably keep it for about 5 years (approx 45,000 miles) before changing it, so cooking oil would be unwise - I'll stick with a branded 10W40 till then - might use 15W50 for south of France next September if it looks likely to be 30C+.

It will be interesting to see what BMW come up with for a replacement for the 1200GS in a couple of years or so - the 1200 will take some bettering

 

[oilman]

Very true and offers from time to time in the Members Section saving good money and giving a chance for Members to stock up.

Offer started today as follows so Castrol and Silkolene both on offer for 1 week, time to pick up a bargain!

Opie Oils 10% Off Week.

Thats correct, from the 18th of May to the 25th of May EVERY PRODUCT on our site in the members section, has 10% OFF!!

**** This offer is only avilable by ordering online! ****

Grab yourself a bargain today while this offer lasts!

http://www.opieoils.co.uk

Members section here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/Members.aspx

Cheers

Simon & Guy

 

[Wildcat]

Morris Lubricants

Being a proud Salopian I might as well stick in my two pence worth for Morris Lubricants of Shrewsbury. They list an oil called V Twin 20W/50 specifically aimed at large modern twin cylinder motorcycle engines.

My recently acquired 2004 1200, which is still drinking oil at 6000 miles, was recently serviced by Blue Belle using GP 20/50, so I have been looking for a supplier of either Castrol GP 20/50 or the aforementioned Morris V Twin with increasing urgency. Can't find anyone who sells either product anywhere locally (plenty of GPS 10/40 & similar), but Morris's customer services have given me a couple of distributors names to try. Meantime I've bought a litre of Morris Multivis 15W/50.

There are many excellent articles on engine oils out on the net - including this very forum, though sadly the links are all on my works PC and I'm currently off work. I recently came across some good info on the Ural owners site appertaining to why modern car oils are not ideally suited to roller bearing cranks in bike engines, which I found very interesting. I have yet to catch up with the crank bearing design in the GS to assess the relevance, but it was interesting none the less!

Cheers
Paul

 

[oilman]

Take a look at the Silkolene V Twin 20w-50 mineral oil or V Twin 10w-50 fully synthetic, they also do a V Twin Gear oil 80w-90

You'll find them all here:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/performance_lubricants/silkolene.aspx

They're under the Motorcycle oils, ride range.

For those seeking something a bit special for their bike, I strongly recommend using this ester based oil.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/performance_lubricants/pdf/silkolene/PRO R 15W-50 - 4 Wheel.pdf

Cheers
Simon

 

[PhilBolton]

I just booked my bike in for it's 6000 service and oil for it was discussed.
They will use 20/50 MINERAL because this is the latest advice from the factory.

Phil

 

[zoltan]

I saw in BIKE or MCN recently that an oil manufacturer had recently launched an oil specifically for modern Beemers. Due to advancing senility brought on by the amount of aluminium in the Jap bikes I used to ride, I can't remember the manufacturer now, and have already given the mag away. I have a vague idea it might have been Motul, but not sure.

Anyone know what the hell I'm going on about, or have any views on the oil I should use on my 9500 mile, 2 year old 1200 GS?

Nurse - can I have the commode again please.......

http://www.motorex.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=sprachewechseln&id_sprache=4&path=1-1639-1795

 

[JIm]

I just booked my bike in for it's 6000 service and oil for it was discussed.
They will use 20/50 MINERAL because this is the latest advice from the factory.

Phil

So, those of us that have used 10/40 as recomended before, have we damaged our motors?
Jim

 

[John Armstrong]

So, those of us that have used 10/40 as recomended before, have we damaged our motors?
Jim

Depends if it was used within the temperature guidelines of the manual. Being that they are probably conservative with the "limits", then all you'll have damaged will be your hearing, probably.

 

[Engineer]

So, those of us that have used 10/40 as recomended before, have we damaged our motors?
Jim

Only if you haven't used "Special Oil" 10W-X where X >= 40 as indicated in the Manual. Obvious really

 

[(RIP) Proff]

agree with the Above apart from DUCKHAMS
It's SHITE
I did my thesis on oils, and Duckhams was the worst of the lot, also caused a lot of CVH Ford engines to die of Black Death when it was marketed as FoMoCo oil
Now CASTROL
GP20/50 or Heritage 20/50 is perfect

The rig we used for oil testing>>

the manual has been updated and the Castrol site will be soon to reverse the recommendations to >>20/50 as first choice
http://www.ew2.lubesinfo.com/frameset.asp?sid=156&bid=63&sc=1156&langid=1

BTW 1150 and 1200 same oil

I just booked my bike in for it's 6000 service and oil for it was discussed.
They will use 20/50 MINERAL because this is the latest advice from the factory.

Phil

OK... why the FECK don't people believe you when you post the CORRECT answer on posts 7 and 8

Feckin load of
Thank God for the Airhead section!!!

 

[Happyhenry]

Proff,
The 'current/last' recommendation is Castrol GPS 15-40, which is a semi-synthetic oil but the 'current/soon-to-be' recommendation is Castrol GP 20-50, which is a slightly heavier(?) mineral oil.
What is the difference for the engine - if any - between semi-synthetic and mineral?
I assume that I have GPS in my 1200GS as this it what I was told that I should top-up with. At the next service I assume that it will be changed to GP. Does it matter if they are mixed or does it just make the semi slightly less semi and slightly 'heavier'?
The benefit of your knowledge would be appreciated.
Regards
Happyhenry

 

[cookie]

please make it stop

 

[Happyhenry]

please make it stop

There's a switch just above your right thumb for that - flick it either way.

This is life-enhancing.

 

[cookie]

This is life-enhancing.

most of the contributors* on this thread clearly don't have one. soul-destroying is more like it.



*including me

 

[Chris Terry]

Ok back to the oil dabate...

 

[tyke2go]

oil !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

fellas,just had a 1200ml service done last week at rainbow..they changed the oil from (then) mineral to putoline semi synth as suggested by bmw. had noticed though, that whilst scamming the shop stuff (in a legal way) that they had the castrol acto stuff on display....sorry it took so long to type,but i've lost a limb since paying the bill!

 

[pistonbrokescooby]

oil

hi all
all the oil comes out the ground and then back in it ,the recommended oil castrol is cheap enough. why buy a 10000 quid bike and want to run it on cheap and cheerful oil ?? . for years have tried lots of different oils ,checking out everything to know and can read all sorts of confusing issues about mixing synt with mineral and semi and bla bla . we have a book to tell us what is best for the motor .the manufacturers spend millions on developing the bikes or cars ,and telling us want is best to use and then we think we all can use something different ? HERE IS A SMALL TEST ,NOT TO TRY ON YOUR GOOD BIKE TO SEE HOW GOOD OIL IS .... DRAIN ALL THE OIL OUT AND THEN GO FOR A RIDE . bet you don't get far ...... so end of the day they are all good enough .few years back read a write up in a mag about a honda 600f bought with 35000 miles on the clock without ever having a oil change ,only topped up . then got pulled apart and all tolerance measured and guess what .... they were all within the recommended wear limits for that mileage . emmmmm that said the lot eh ...
so now i only use what the Manuel recommends .
ps my user name is not because i put no oil in .

 

[ts2]

OK, not too bothered by what's in my bike, as it seems to be running fine and is due a service soon anyhow.

Can someone tell me how the ambient temperature affects how the engine runs? From what I can tell the 10W-40 means that the "winter" grade is SAE 10 (ie it cranks like an SAE 10 when cold) and the running grade is 40. Now I can understand that 40 is thinner than 50, but surely the engine runs at approx the same temperature (after warm up) all year, so if the engine has been running fine with 10W-40 over winter, why would it become worse in summer?

I'm sure I'm missing something obvious (less cooling?), but hey I'm a biochemist not an engineer.

Also will a heavier oil decrease your mpg?


Sadly the answer to these questions wont change my attitude, as I leave oil choice to the service guy. I just top up with whatever I've bought from Halfords (10W-40 at the mo), but being curious I'd be interested in what's really going on.


TobyS

 

[John Armstrong]

so if the engine has been running fine with 10W-40 over winter, why would it become worse in summer?

Might be ok, might not

 

[cookie]

but surely the engine runs at approx the same temperature (after warm up) all year

i don't believe that to be the case.

bmw produce a chart that clearly describes what oil to use at what temp:

edit: i think i should seek out a later chart, as that disregards BMW's current recommendation of 20w50.