What is "lubing the splines"?

[essjay]

I have a small issue with the 1100GS (65k miles) where it can be difficult to change down gears, mainly from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st. It usually takes a double or triple pull of the clutch to release the shift pedal downwards. Rarely, I would experience this shifting up a gear, but it has happened.

I really only notice this during city riding where I am 95% of the time.

I'm quite sure it's not the actual shift lever sticking as I'd had it off and gave it a good greasing.

I've read over on ADVrider that a solution to this is to "lube the splines". So what is this, what does it involve and is it a job I could take a bash at?

 

[MikeP]

The suggested spline lube for your particular problem means splitting the gearbox from the engine and attending to the splines on which the clutch acts.

Not a five minute job.

 

[davegs]

G/box

Can't see how lubing the splibnes will help, take your gear linkage to bits and clean and lube same there in will lie your problem, taking the gear box out to lube the splines is as stated a major operation and whils doing it a good I dea to replace the clutch while it's in bits. Many of us have had this problem and linkage is 99.9% of the problems.
Dave GS.

 

[MattW]

I have read of people partially splitting the gearbox from the engine and getting in there with a long cotton bud and Honda Moly 60 paste. However it sounds like an unholy pain in the ar*e and I'm not about to bother.

As others (and you) said, this problem is nearly always the gear lever pivot or linkages. You are sure you completely dismantled the lever pivot (including the bushes) when you cleaned / greased it (not just the bolt which isn't actually the pivot)?

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/BLt43nSS03NGK2xUXjnSrxJAieIP4IByCYmMpeOVcwI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/TGpphT6ssfI/AAAAAAAADnY/G8BP3Pm2uL0/s800/1100GearLever.jpg" /></a>

If you're really dead set on lubing the splines, I'd split the gearbox and swingarm from the engine as a unit (Steptoe posted how on here somewhere) and change the clutch as the same time if it's getting close.

 

[essjay]

Can't see how lubing the splibnes will help, take your gear linkage to bits and clean and lube same there in will lie your problem, taking the gear box out to lube the splines is as stated a major operation and whils doing it a good I dea to replace the clutch while it's in bits. Many of us have had this problem and linkage is 99.9% of the problems.
Dave GS.

Had the shift lever off (part circled in red), cleaned and lubed it.

 

[Steptoe]

I have a small issue with the 1100GS (65k miles) where it can be difficult to change down gears, mainly from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st. It usually takes a double or triple pull of the clutch to release the shift pedal downwards. Rarely, I would experience this shifting up a gear, but it has happened.

I really only notice this during city riding where I am 95% of the time.

I'm quite sure it's not the actual shift lever sticking as I'd had it off and gave it a good greasing.

I've read over on ADVrider that a solution to this is to "lube the splines". So what is this, what does it involve and is it a job I could take a bash at?

Stop reading ADV rider - On adv rider the posted solution to every other problem is solved by "lubing the splines".

A crock of shite.

 

[essjay]

I have read of people partially splitting the gearbox from the engine and getting in there with a long cotton bud and Honda Moly 60 paste. However it sounds like an unholy pain in the ar*e and I'm not about to bother.

As others (and you) said, this problem is nearly always the gear lever pivot or linkages. You are sure you completely dismantled the lever pivot (including the bushes) when you cleaned / greased it (not just the bolt which isn't actually the pivot)?



If you're really dead set on lubing the splines, I'd split the gearbox / swingarm as a unit (Steptoe posted how on here somewhere) and change the clutch as the same time if it's getting close.

Took off parts 7, 8 & 9 and greased them.

 

[essjay]

Stop reading ADV rider - On adv rider the posted solution to every other problem is solved by "lubing the splines".

A crock of shite.

 

[Steptoe]

Had the shift lever off (part circled in red), cleaned and lubed it.

]

Did you remove the inner sleeve/bush that's inside the lever ? most don't realise it's there and just lube the securing bolt

 

[essjay]

I could understand the gear lever sticking alright if there was dirt in there. But it's the fact that it releases on a double or triple pull of the clutch lever that has me thinking it's not a dirt/grit problem.

 

[essjay]

Did you remove the inner sleeve/bush that's inside the lever ? most don't realise it's there and just lube the securing bolt

As in parts 8 and 9 in the diagram above? Yes, had them off, cleaned and greased.

 

[MattW]

Is the selector shaft free to move - i.e. can you 'waggle' part 11 in the diagram above easily with your fingers?

Edit: and talking of 'waggling' can you waggle the clutch arm at the gearbox easily with your fingers?

 

[essjay]

Is the selector shaft free to move - i.e. can you 'waggle' part 11 in the diagram above easily with your fingers?

Edit: and talking of 'waggling' can you waggle the clutch arm at the gearbox easily with your fingers?

Part 11: Yes, I can waggle it up and down. Also I can hold the shift lever and waggle it too.

I'll have a look at the clutch arm in a few minutes.

 

[essjay]

Edit: and talking of 'waggling' can you waggle the clutch arm at the gearbox easily with your fingers?

I can waggle the clutch arm up and down a few mm's but none or very little movement in and out (which I suspect is the way it moves).

 

[Jonnie Boy]

What is "lubing the splines"?

Possibly a euphemism for 'Splicing the Main Brace' ??

 

[MattW]

I can waggle the clutch arm up and down a few mm's but none or very little movement in and out (which I suspect is the way it moves).

Well this may be a different problem but either your clutch arm is seized (unlikely given that it'll move up / down) or your clutch adjustment is bad. You must have freeplay at the clutch arm (5mm ish) or your clutch will slip and wear very quickly. I'd attend to this at your earliest opportunity. It's a bit of a sod to do because of the adjuster location but it's important to get it right.

I think we've covered this before here.

However, if the arm is seized this may be a factor in your gear selection issue.

 

[essjay]

Well this may be a different problem but either your clutch arm is seized (unlikely given that it'll move up / down) or your clutch adjustment is bad. You must have freeplay at the clutch arm (5mm ish) or your clutch will slip and wear very quickly. I'd attend to this at your earliest opportunity. It's a bit of a sod to do because of the adjuster location but it's important to get it right.

I think we've covered this before here.

However, if the arm is seized this may be a factor in your gear selection issue.

OK, I think I mistook the original discussion. I presumed "play" meant that there was enough distance between 1 & 2 in the diagram here:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2313953&postcount=26

I didn't assume I should be able to wiggle the arm back and forward.

 

[MattW]

OK, I think I mistook the original discussion. I presumed "play" meant that there was enough distance between 1 & 2 in the diagram here:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2313953&postcount=26

I didn't assume I should be able to wiggle the arm back and forward.

Play = wiggle room.

You must have 5-7mm of wiggle in the arm before the arm starts to lift the clutch. By the book, this is set as distance 'B' (the gap at the lever) in the diagram you refer to. It is not set using the cable adjuster - it is set using the adjuster screw on the clutch release lever at the gearbox.

Basically set the cable adjuster as the diagram says and then adjust the clutch release arm at the gearbox until you get some play (back and forward wiggle) - it's not really critical how much play you get, but you must have some.

 

[essjay]

Play = wiggle room.

You must have 5-7mm of wiggle in the arm before the arm starts to lift the clutch. By the book, this is set as distance 'B' (the gap at the lever) in the diagram you refer to. It is not set using the cable adjuster - it is set using the adjuster screw on the clutch release lever at the gearbox.

Basically set the cable adjuster as the diagram says and then adjust the clutch release arm at the gearbox until you get some play (back and forward wiggle) - it's not really critical how much play you get, but you must have some.

So from the diagram.....

Adjust "2" to get the distance at "B"
Then adjust "1" to give me my 5mm play on the arm

Correct or have I it arseways again?

 

[MattW]

So from the diagram.....

Adjust "2" to get the distance at "B"
Then adjust "1" to give me my 5mm play on the arm

Correct or have I it arseways again?

1 is just the locknut.
Slacken 1 off, and then adjust the screw 2 to get distance B at the lever - this will give you the same distance of freeplay / 'wiggle' at the gearbox arm - test it by waggling the arm - you should feel easy back and forth movement before it starts to operate the clutch.

Having confirmed that you've got freeplay at the operating arm, hold the screw "2" where it is and tighten the locknut "1" to lock the adjustment. This can be tricky as most of us don't have the special tool - I use a socket on a 'wobble' extension for the screw and an old bent ring spanner for the locknut.