I've a matched pair Barrels pistons heads inc running off a 20,000 mile R1100S ?????
Unfortunately only Single spark ones tho?
Unfortunately only Single spark ones tho?
What you really, REALLY don't want to see when you take a plug out :(
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freeloader
Registered user
Bit of Solvol, that'll polish out, surely?
I have a pair of R1100S twinspark heads, if they're any use. PM me if you need them...
I had the same thing happen to my old R80GS, but it also holed the piston & shoved swarf around the whole engine. I ended up picking up a complete s/h engine (18k miles) for £100 & swapped over the necessary parts like sump pan & oil pickup & just carried on as before.
I had the same thing happen to my old R80GS, but it also holed the piston & shoved swarf around the whole engine. I ended up picking up a complete s/h engine (18k miles) for £100 & swapped over the necessary parts like sump pan & oil pickup & just carried on as before.
on e-bay L/H barrel+piston+cyc head,from 2004 gsa so should be twin spark
chad
Registered user
christ
i dont think think ive ever seen such carnage in an engine
i dont think think ive ever seen such carnage in an engine
Myke Rocks
Registered user
christ
Actually not that bad.
Cylinder head is easily fixed, but unlikely to be economical to do so.
I have seen BDX 4 valve heads with complete combustion chambers knocked into the waterworks & very little spark plug hole if any left repaired, but at a cost. When finished, it is not possible to tell which chamber has been repaired.
Myke
hank
Registered user
That looks painfull. Any idea what caused the problem?
Faaaaarrrrkkkkkkkkk
I remember when we checked the valve gaps on the bike the nearside cylinder inlet gap was 0.30mm instead of 0.15mm and the exhaust gap closer to 0.40mm. The off side was about 0.05mm out on both inlet and exhaust.
Bill if you recall I mentioned this when you picked the bike up. It was out so much we triple checked TDC on both sides to make sure we are not missing anything obvious why the valve gaps would of opened up so much.
I remember when we checked the valve gaps on the bike the nearside cylinder inlet gap was 0.30mm instead of 0.15mm and the exhaust gap closer to 0.40mm. The off side was about 0.05mm out on both inlet and exhaust.
Bill if you recall I mentioned this when you picked the bike up. It was out so much we triple checked TDC on both sides to make sure we are not missing anything obvious why the valve gaps would of opened up so much.
They are now on bills bike
Faaaaarrrrkkkkkkkkk
I remember when we checked the valve gaps on the bike the nearside cylinder inlet gap was 0.30mm instead of 0.15mm and the exhaust gap closer to 0.40mm. The off side was about 0.05mm out on both inlet and exhaust.
Bill if you recall I mentioned this when you picked the bike up. It was out so much we triple checked TDC on both sides to make sure we are not missing anything obvious why the valve gaps would of opened up so much.
While rebuilding the L/H side of the engine i checked the valve clearences on the R/H side.
There weren't any
Did you use those wurth gustimate feeler guages when you adjusted the clearences 
Anyway, all back together this afternoon, went to start it and couldn't find the keys
...... I'd left them at home 
So the moment of truth will have to be put off until tomorrow.Hi Steptoe,
Are you saying the Wurth gauges have a problem in design or use?
Tom
Are you saying the Wurth gauges have a problem in design or use?
Tom
It's a combination of their flat design and the cheap bearings they use.
Aso if they made the thinner sizes thicker they'd last much longer.
Did you use those wurth gustimate feeler guages when you adjusted the clearences
"A small fish can be brought in rapidly, but NEVER attempt to hurl him from the water with your rod. Applying too much rod pressure is a good way to get a broken leader, or line, or to pull out hooks. Having said that, don't go to the other extreme and coddle a fish for fear of losing it. Don't let the fish do what it wants, you should be in control at all times.
In playing a really tough, heavy fish with a bait casting outfit, place the butt of the rod into your stomach, maybe hooking it under your belt, and pump and reel. Pumping and reeling is the most practical (and natural) method for fighting strong fish, regardless of tackle used. To pump a fish, lower your rod tip, reeling fast at the same time to keep a tight line, then raise the rod tip smoothly. Repeat this until the fish is coming your way."
Just had a good long chat with Bill so let's hope his bike is sorted, he needs it to clear the cobwebs out of his Ginger head
There weren't any
Actually this time I just guaged them by eye you know they looked roughly right and felt semi loose by hand
Both me and Chad double checked those gaps because they were so much out to start with. I normally set the valves a loose slide on the feeler guages instead of a tight slide IYKWIM. Glad it is nearly sorted .......again
Actually this time I just guaged them by eye you know they looked roughly right and felt semi loose by hand
Both me and Chad double checked those gaps because they were so much out to start with. I normally set the valves a loose slide on the feeler guages instead of a tight slide IYKWIM. Glad it is nearly sorted .......again
Perhaps the valves are stretching or sinking into the head
how did i miss this one?!
Fark!
Bill,
sympathy to you - that's a lot of shrapnel.
Fark!
Bill,
sympathy to you - that's a lot of shrapnel.
Shep
Shep of the Dessert
Perhaps the valves are stretching or sinking into the head
That would be my guess, after all who could fek up using a feeler guage
I detect an undertone of blame heading this way. If you guys think I ****ed it up when setting the valve clearances just say so instead of pussy footing around.
