whats it worth? 93 k1100lt 63k

[Pauly S]

copied from the ad..NO timmys rules..



It’s a ’93 k1100lt in Seiden Blue with a light grey seat. 76,000 miles on the clock and a dealer service history up to 63,000. It had a new engine under warranty at around19,000 miles so this engine only has around 55,000 miles under its belt. New clutch fitted in February this year.

Complete set of paperwork (including the radio) a manual on CD and all recent MOTs.


MOT until July and Taxed until December.
Usual colour matched topbox and touring cases and a set of (tatty) black city cases. As I’ve been riding it right through the winter, it is certainly not immaculate – but it is basically sound, and certainly reliable, starting without fail at sub-zero temperatures. Cleaned up it looks pretty good as you can see from the pictures. A perfect time for a new owner to fettle it in before a summer tour of Europe or beyond.


The Good:
It has RS wheels (allowing a better choice of fatter radials)
New Pirelli Angel tyre on the front – good Bridgestone on the rear
New Clutch
The ABS works!
The radio works
The electric Screen works


The Not So Good:
The temperature gauge does not work (aficionados will be aware that this does not affect the cooling fan which is on a separate circuit).
The heated grips are intermittent (and at the moment they’re not working)

How much do you reckon? and anybody interested, it may be a px coming up for a scoot i have for sale.

 

[electric_monk]

I'll give you 50 quid for it.

 

[DrFarkoff]

I'll give you 50 quid for it.

You can;t get an RS round the back of your Gaff without wrecking all round yee!

How ya gonna manage a big bike

 

[Pauly S]

come and get it then

I'll give you 50 quid for it.

its not my bike yet, so yes please,paypal ok?

 

[MikeO]

They're making £1200-1500 on eBay at the moment...

Mike

 

[Pauly S]

Thats kinda what i thought

They're making £1200-1500 on eBay at the moment...

Mike

I thought around 12-13 considering its got over 60k some bits dont work,and basicly its old.he's got it up for £1800, it think he may need a rethink.
Ive a scooter for sale at the moment, and i think i'll ask and see if he wants a straight swap,as he's after a scoot in trade, theres nowt wrong with mine, and it all works,i was gonna trade just to sell the LT on for cash.

 

[MikeO]

I thought around 12-13 considering its got over 60k some bits dont work,and basicly its old.he's got it up for £1800, it think he may need a rethink.

Yep - he's at the top end, but it dosn't look (or read) like a top end bike...

Completed Listings...

Mike

 

[Pauly S]

NOw how do you do that

Yep - he's at the top end, but it dosn't look (or read) like a top end bike...

Completed Listings...

Mike

completed listings... i cant find an end date option hmmm. edit found it..

 

[MikeO]

completed listings... i cant find an end date option hmmm.

Not sure what you mean - I think these are the ones that completed in the last 15 days...

Mike

 

[Steptoe]

£1200 absolute max - it's a 20 year old K1100, in an unpopular colour.

The one piece exhaust is a weakness on the 1100 models, it fractures at the downpipe/balance box join. The fork seals usually leak once past 40K miles, and the only way to stop them leaking longterm is to replace the stanchions.
The electric screens usually fail.
The cooling fans seize, and the radiators leak (the rads are smaller and thinner than K100 models).
The 1100 motronic ecu is no where near as reliable as a K100 ecu.
The exhaust valves get burnt out (usually number 2 cylinder) , due to the cams needing removing (special tool required, hence why people leave them) to adjust the clearances.
The shim buckets cost around £9@, as a comparision the shims on a K100 cost £2, and don't need the cams removing to change them.
The front brake caliper pistons stick/seize and the disc bobbins fall apart.
The ABS is unreliable.
The starter clutches stick, which means a major job ( a day if you know what you're doing, 2 days if you've never done the job before) all for a £50 part.
The gearing is way too high, and could easily do with a 6th gear.
The side stands are crap.

The plus points--
The RS wheels fitted, i had these on my own K1100LT, makes a world of difference.
The K1100 engine had the engine output shaft improved as the k100 could give problems
The K1100 driveshaft splines don't wear as they do on the K75/K100 models -but the clutch splines/gearbox input shaft splines do wear out.
The bike in the advert has a new clutch - Be careful that the old one wasn't replaced due to the splines wearing out. Because it may mean the gearbox input splines are worn and the new clutch won't last long , and the owner went down the money saving route of only replacing the clutch plate and then sell the bike, rather than the extra £400-£500 gearbox input shaft rebuild cost.

If you want a reliable, cheap to run K series, then get a K100/K75 model.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

£1200 absolute max - it's a 20 year old K1100, in an unpopular colour.

The one piece exhaust is a weakness on the 1100 models, it fractures at the downpipe/balance box join. The fork seals usually leak once past 40K miles, and the only way to stop them leaking longterm is to replace the stanchions.
The electric screens usually fail.
The cooling fans seize, and the radiators leak (the rads are smaller and thinner than K100 models).
The 1100 motronic ecu is no where near as reliable as a K100 ecu.
The exhaust valves get burnt out (usually number 2 cylinder) , due to the cams needing removing (special tool required, hence why people leave them) to adjust the clearances.
The shim buckets cost around £9@, as a comparision the shims on a K100 cost £2, and don't need the cams removing to change them.
The front brake caliper pistons stick/seize and the disc bobbins fall apart.
The ABS is unreliable.
The starter clutches stick, which means a major job ( a day if you know what you're doing, 2 days if you've never done the job before) all for a £50 part.
The gearing is way too high, and could easily do with a 6th gear.
The side stands are crap.

The plus points--
The RS wheels fitted, i had these on my own K1100LT, makes a world of difference.
The K1100 engine had the engine output shaft improved as the k100 could give problems
The K1100 driveshaft splines don't wear as they do on the K75/K100 models -but the clutch splines/gearbox input shaft splines do wear out.
The bike in the advert has a new clutch - Be careful that the old one wasn't replaced due to the splines wearing out. Because it may mean the gearbox input splines are worn and the new clutch won't last long , and the owner went down the money saving route of only replacing the clutch plate and then sell the bike, rather than the extra £400-£500 gearbox input shaft rebuild cost.

If you want a reliable, cheap to run K series, then get a K100/K75 model.

^^^^^
That was superb


Perhaps you could do a Steptoe's favourite BMW models threads, why they're great and any minor weaknesses....just pick a few that "Steptoe Recommends" from your long, varied and sometimes bitter experience

 

[Pauly S]

Well what can i say??

£1200 absolute max - it's a 20 year old K1100, in an unpopular colour.

The one piece exhaust is a weakness on the 1100 models, it fractures at the downpipe/balance box join. The fork seals usually leak once past 40K miles, and the only way to stop them leaking longterm is to replace the stanchions.
The electric screens usually fail.
The cooling fans seize, and the radiators leak (the rads are smaller and thinner than K100 models).
The 1100 motronic ecu is no where near as reliable as a K100 ecu.
The exhaust valves get burnt out (usually number 2 cylinder) , due to the cams needing removing (special tool required, hence why people leave them) to adjust the clearances.
The shim buckets cost around £9@, as a comparision the shims on a K100 cost £2, and don't need the cams removing to change them.
The front brake caliper pistons stick/seize and the disc bobbins fall apart.
The ABS is unreliable.
The starter clutches stick, which means a major job ( a day if you know what you're doing, 2 days if you've never done the job before) all for a £50 part.
The gearing is way too high, and could easily do with a 6th gear.
The side stands are crap.

The plus points--
The RS wheels fitted, i had these on my own K1100LT, makes a world of difference.
The K1100 engine had the engine output shaft improved as the k100 could give problems
The K1100 driveshaft splines don't wear as they do on the K75/K100 models -but the clutch splines/gearbox input shaft splines do wear out.
The bike in the advert has a new clutch - Be careful that the old one wasn't replaced due to the splines wearing out. Because it may mean the gearbox input splines are worn and the new clutch won't last long , and the owner went down the money saving route of only replacing the clutch plate and then sell the bike, rather than the extra £400-£500 gearbox input shaft rebuild cost.

If you want a reliable, cheap to run K series, then get a K100/K75 model.

Fecking excellent..I'll steer clear of that then in case i get stuck with it, i was just thinking of px'ing the scoot to sell the LT for cash, dont think i'll bother now.

 

[Pauly S]

Johnny i think youre right

^^^^^
That was superb


Perhaps you could do a Steptoe's favourite BMW models threads, why they're great and any minor weaknesses....just pick a few that "Steptoe Recommends" from your long, varied and sometimes bitter experience

You need to write a book Neil,your missing a trick there mate..

 

[Steptoe]

Nothing wrong with them if you get a good one, it's just that the bad ones far outnumber the good ones.

I've got a K1100LT tucked away. 9k miles.
And a K100RS 16valve (a K100 engine with a 16valve head) with 4k miles

 

[Pauly S]

Eeek

Nothing wrong with them if you get a good one, it's just that the bad ones far outnumber the good ones.

I've got a K1100LT tucked away. 9k miles.
And a K100RS 16valve (a K100 engine with a 16valve head) with 4k miles

crikey, thems low mileage man.

 

[Belper phil]

Mileages

Nothing wrong with them if you get a good one, it's just that the bad ones far outnumber the good ones.

I've got a K1100LT tucked away. 9k miles.
And a K100RS 16valve (a K100 engine with a 16valve head) with 4k miles

where the fuck do you keep getting all these low milers from!

Saw your bumble bee with something like 5000 miles - puts mine to shame.

By the way K1100 - mines a good one - hopefully

 

[seahorse]

If you want a reliable, cheap to run K series, then get a K100/K75 model.

I see Motorworks are breaking a K75RT with 330k on it! Say no more.

 

[Glyno]

I had 3 in the 90,s. Wouldn't turn my nose up at a good one now. Many happy memories of several European tours on all of them (without a single problem ) except when I forgot the disc lock was still on at the front gate to Dachau

 

[Steptoe]

where the fuck do you keep getting all these low milers from!

Saw your bumble bee with something like 5000 miles - puts mine to shame.

By the way K1100 - mines a good one - hopefully

I bought all the low milers with very slight damage and not even a year old, when prices for damaged bikes were absolute peanuts.
Cheap enough to buy and forget about in the back of the garage.

I sold a very very good K1100RS, 42k miles with all the history and luggage for £1350 about 3 years ago on ukgser.