Which auxiliary fuse board?

[RSavage]

I'm looking to fit an auxiliary fuse board in order to reduce the crowding around the battery terminals on my 1200GSA.

I'm not inclined to buy either of the two that NN sells - the Centech AP-1 and Fuzeblock FZ-1 - because the screw terminal blocks are right on the edge of each of the PCBs. This means there's the possibility of the stripped wire being exposed and the terminal blocks themselves being shorted. I'm also shocked(!) to discover from the AdVRider site that the track-side of the FZ-1 is exposed.

So, which auxiliary fuse board do you use and why?

If I could identify a source for the PCB mounted ATC fuseholders I'd build a fuse board myself and mount the terminal blocks further into the PCB and separate each live terminal with an unused one.

TIA

Richard

 

[John Armstrong]

Fuzeblock as it gives me the option of switched or not as an easy option.

 

[Canuck]

Centec AP2 .... but you might like the blue sea one of something... I think its for marine applications. I can post you a cp2 so you can look at it before you buy one if you'd like.

 

[RSavage]

Centec AP2 .... but you might like the blue sea one of something... I think its for marine applications. I can post you a cp2 so you can look at it before you buy one if you'd like.

Thanks Canuck

Judging from the picture of the AP2 on Centech's site, the terminal blocks are still (to my mind) terribly exposed. I really want something where the terminal is set well back from the edge of the PCB.

Rgds

Richard

 

[Beemerman59]

I have one of these on my GSA:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

2 x unswitched, 6 x switched. Fits into the tooltray easily.

 

[RSavage]

I have one of these on my GSA:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

2 x unswitched, 6 x switched. Fits into the tooltray easily.

That looks very good - the best so far in fact. He's thought about waterproofing, insulation, replacement of components, circuit overloading and size of enclosure, but the terminal blocks are still right on the edge of the PCB.

I'm going to look harder for some PCB holders for mini-blade fuses and build my own unit.

I only want to connect the Zumo, Nautilus and the trailing connection for my C-Tek charger



<sigh>

Thanks for all of your replies


Richard

 

[Canuck]

What the big worry anyway... I know you mentioned shorting etc. but it doesn't really move nor get hit if it in installed just behind the battery or on top of the air box under seat/tank. I've never heard of anyone with any problems

 

[RSavage]

What the big worry anyway... I know you mentioned shorting etc. but it doesn't really move nor get hit if it in installed just behind the battery or on top of the air box under seat/tank. I've never heard of anyone with any problems

Simple answer: I'm paranoid!




Richard

 

[Stormforce8]

Cooper Bussmann - utilises mini relays and mini fuses, or you could even use mini circuit breakers in place of the fuses.

Neat stuff and IP67 waterproof

 

[RSavage]

Cooper Bussmann - utilises mini relays and mini fuses, or you could even use mini circuit breakers in place of the fuses.

Neat stuff and IP67 waterproof

! Serious stuff. That's beautiful wiring. What's it on?

Richard

 

[Canuck]

That does look nice...

 

[STUBBS]

no problems with the centec for a number of years now

 

[Beemerman59]

That looks very good - the best so far in fact. He's thought about waterproofing, insulation, replacement of components, circuit overloading and size of enclosure, but the terminal blocks are still right on the edge of the PCB.

I'm going to look harder for some PCB holders for mini-blade fuses and build my own unit.

I only want to connect the Zumo, Nautilus and the trailing connection for my C-Tek charger



<sigh>

Thanks for all of your replies


Richard

If thats all you want to connect, go back to the Eastern Beaver site - he does a sealed 3 mini fuse block..... would be just the job.

 

[RSavage]

If thats all you want to connect, go back to the Eastern Beaver site - he does a sealed 3 mini fuse block..... would be just the job.

Indeed he does: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3_circuit.html

I think that my friendly car electricians sell the MetriPack connectors. But $33 for a ready made lead is actually a pain-free solution.

Thanks

Richard

 

[Stormforce8]

! Serious stuff. That's beautiful wiring. What's it on?

Richard

A custom built Africa Twin by a chap in Finland - he gets bored during the winter months.

His build album is HERE - impressive skills, especially on the kevlar rear tanks, but not the prettiest front fairing

If thats all you want to connect, go back to the Eastern Beaver site - he does a sealed 3 mini fuse block..... would be just the job.

Gotta agree on this - for what you want to connect the 3 way fuse block would be perfect - Jim at Eastern Beaver is a fellow inmate over on Advrider, he's been selling his products for years

 

[RSavage]

A custom built Africa Twin by a chap in Finland - he gets bored during the winter months.

His build album is HERE - impressive skills, especially on the kevlar rear tanks, but not the prettiest front fairing



Gotta agree on this - for what you want to connect the 3 way fuse block would be perfect - Jim at Eastern Beaver is a fellow inmate over on Advrider, he's been selling his products for years

Wow. My second bike was an AT. I still miss it, sometimes. Friend sold his AT to someone in Scandinavia. The bloke was absolutely desparate to buy it.

The three-leg Eastern Beaver will probably get my money.

Ta

Richard

 

[Oldrat]

Fuzeblock

I have a Fuzeblock and it's really straight forward to set up and to change from switched to constant.

For the information of those of you who have a 2010 GSA as I do, please note that there is very little space under the seat and a Fuzeblock and an autocom will just about go but only really with some fettling.

Also, and this is perhaps where your point about weather proofing comes in, the strap that holds the (ahem) "tool" roll is just a push fit through the rear mudguard, which allows all sorts of crap and water through onto the under seat tray where you'd keep your accessory box. This area gets quite wet, so I keep the lecky kit rapped up in a bloomin sainsburys bag.

 

[NLC]

+1 for the Fuzeblock. If you solder the ends if you are using multi-strand wire they don't go anywhere. More here

 

[Pukmeister]

+2 for the Fuzeblock. Very tidy once installed.

 

[RSavage]

+1 for the Fuzeblock. If you solder the ends if you are using multi-strand wire they don't go anywhere. More here

Hmm. Soldering is generally frowned upon for any wire that is to be clamped. Solder can, and does, 'cold flow' allowing the connection to work lose. These: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalspreins/photo/bp.jpg are, if memory serves me right, to be preferred.

Richard