Why am I so sh1t?

Mutley

You simply shouldn't be doing this.

How in God's name did you get the rear caliper on? If the wheel was seized solid when it was installed, what force did you use to fit it?

:hammer

There are plenty of guys on the forum who have the skills, competencies and aptitude to do their own maintenance.

If you're not one of them, have to courage to recognise it and the sense not to try, lest you kill somebody (like yourself)!

Greg
 
The truth about tools :D
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in fenders just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the chaos principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your drink across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouch!"

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a car to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front fender.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering the car upward off a hydraulic jack.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.

PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 60 years ago by someone in Springfield, and rounds them off.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.
 
Bateman said:
I still get mixed up on which is the "nut" and which is the "bolt".
A lunatic escaped from an asylum, broke into a laundry, raped the workers and ran away.................................

Sorted!

Regards, Mick :thumb
 
Mutley1150 said:
Just to prove how dangerous I really am :o :

I fitted a Migsel oil cooler guard last weekend (and very nice it is too). Not only did I need to ring Alan about this as well ( :o ) ...... it requires the removal, or at least the loosening, of the beak.

Now in order to do this you have to drop off the front indicators. These are held in place by two nuts on the inside of the beak. They are very hard to get at as they are surrounded by pipes / wires etc. and have a wire running into the centre of them so you can't get a socket on them. I managed the whole thing with only the loss of some skin and a couple of finger nails.

Today I nearly tipped the bike over with no wheels on :eek: and the only thing I grabbed was a front indicator - which came away in my hand :eek: :eek: :eek:

Needless to say I have spent a little more time doing them up again this evening :D


:eek: :eek:

Didn't remove indicators when fitting mine IIRC and a spanner will do nicely for indicator stalks, rather than a socket :thumb
 
Atkule said:
The truth about tools :D

These are the most accurate descriptions of tools and their uses that I have ever read. :thumb


Mutley .......... sell the bike, buy a nissan micra furfecksake.
 
Mutley1150 said:
.. Today I nearly tipped the bike over with no wheels on :eek: and the only thing I grabbed was a front indicator - which came away in my hand
Have you thought of selling the film rights Mutley? :D :D
 
Mutley, have you cracked the torque wrench yet? No pun intended, but with your track record :rob
 
Gaz said:
You took both wheels off at the same time ? :eek:

Yep, the Adventure is perfectly blalnced so you can do this. Obviously I put a block under the front forks and a jack under the swing arm :mmmm
 
Greg Masters said:
Mutley

You simply shouldn't be doing this.

How in God's name did you get the rear caliper on? If the wheel was seized solid when it was installed, what force did you use to fit it?

:hammer

There are plenty of guys on the forum who have the skills, competencies and aptitude to do their own maintenance.

If you're not one of them, have to courage to recognise it and the sense not to try, lest you kill somebody (like yourself)!

Greg

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
You worry too much Greg, although thanks for your concern :thumb
 
ELIMINATOR said:
Mutley, have you cracked the torque wrench yet? No pun intended, but with your track record :rob

It seems straight forward enough, set the reading by unscrewing the han dle the tighten till the wrench cracks :confused:

Unfortunately the drive in the wrench is the wrong size for the torx bit holder. More money to spend I suppose :nenau
 
Mick O'Malley said:
A lunatic escaped from an asylum, broke into a laundry, raped the workers and ran away.................................

Sorted!

Regards, Mick :thumb


NUT, SCREWS WASHERS, and BOLTS :D :eek: :eek:
 
ELIMINATOR said:
Show us your torque wrench then.......big boy :D Then perhaps we can help.

I assume that it has a little window somewhere, with little numbers inside?

The reason I've never used it is because it belonged to my dad and doesn't have anything quite as easy to understand as a window with numbers in it.

ELIMINATOR said:
Tark, some people don't use torque wrenches........................even when there's one in their garage :nenau :confused:

Well here is a picture so you can see why I've never used it before. I have now bought a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter so I can use my torx kit on the caliper bolts, and I've checked it all and I'm happy it won't come undone :cool:
 

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Mutley1150 said:
Well here is a picture so you can see why I've never used it before. I have now bought a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter so I can use my torx kit on the caliper bolts, and I've checked it all and I'm happy it won't come undone :cool:

If I were you, I would get the calibration checked, just in case :thumb
 
BTBR said:
If I were you, I would get the calibration checked, just in case :thumb


WHY ???
I have the same model, bought new in 1965, never had a moments trouble with it. :rob
just torqued my axle bolts and checked with M8's>> { digi cost a fortune snap on one } cos you sowed seed of doubt:(
Exactly right, still perfect 41 years on and many 1000's of nuts and bolts torqued !!:) :thumb :thumb










:bounce1
 
Brave man admiting you aint cut out for it...cos everybody else is" pops yoshimura" .just ride and pay somone else to do it.
Dont have to know about bikes to luv em.. :beerjug:
 
Proff said:
WHY ???
I have the same model, bought new in 1965, never had a moments trouble with it.


But thats my point, how do you know if its ok :nenau Could be under or could be over tightening, who knows. :nenau

For example, I had mine checked by the people we use at work for doing all ours and they scrapped it as not being accurate enough :spitfire

At the end of the day, it is a precision measuring instrument and therefore it should be treated as such.

I wonder how many people just chuck them back in the bottom of the tool box without backing the tension off. :nono
 
I got a "norbar" one that goes low,its for bikes,then a normal range one.and a big one that i never bloody use..try a bike specific shop.do a search for norbar :beer:
 
BTBR said:
For example, I had mine checked by the people we use at work for doing all ours and they scrapped it as not being accurate enough :spitfire

At the end of the day, it is a precision measuring instrument and therefore it should be treated as such.

I wonder how many people just chuck them back in the bottom of the tool box without backing the tension off. :nono

Do you want to take mine to work and check it out then? ;)
 


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