I know - so many hard parts to collect ('ooh 'er missus)
And if you happen to have any gearbox hard parts you don't want ?......
Won't start - faulty battery?
- Thread starter the_laughing_mole
- Start date
I know - so many hard parts to collect ('ooh 'er missus)
And if you happen to have any gearbox hard parts you don't want ?......
Bastille
Registered user
Hi, my 1150GS has decided it doesn't want to go out and play in the cold weather and won't start - giving the clack clack of the solenoid but no engine turning. Charged it up with my Optimate 3 (through the accessory plug and also tried straight onto the battery terminals) - Optimate shows charging and then eventually a 'Green' charged light. Turn on ignition and lights and instrument lights come on fine. Hit the ignition switch, clock resets, get the solenoid clack clack, but no turning of the engine. Put on the Optimate again to charge and same thing happens.
Is my battery dead (and if so, why is the Optimate showing charged?).
Help appreciated - it may be cold out there but the weather is fabulous for a ride through the New Forest and I want to get out there!!
I have just read all of these reports here and would like to add this. I also have a GS1150 03 and mine has the same symptoms/problem as you describe here. The difference is that I fitted a new Odyssey battery in June 08 and whilst obviously the battery could be faulty, my Ctek also shaows it to be fully charged! Electrical isn't a strong subject with me and I'm inclined to think its a dirty starter spindle. Strangely, last week, on what sounded to be its last legs of clicking, clock re-set etc. it fired up and was running. I then managed to stall it! But to my suprise it immediately started as normal. Ctek back on for a week, on the "Snow flake" setting, as I would call it and guess what, it won't bloody start again!
I just thought I'd share that with you all.
t'other dave
Registered user
Starter magnets loose?
Bastille
Registered user
Thats interesting, can you elaborate on that please? Is there an option to tighten the magnets again?
Thanks.
They are glued in at the factory with epoxy and with age/use can break free and cause trouble. There is a post on Advrider / Gspot somewhere showing it IIRC.
t'other dave
Registered user
I thought my battery was failing sometimes slow turn over then it would start but reset the clock after it finally let me down 100mls from home ( although started with jumpleads to starter) I decided to get new battery only to have same problem no start. After checking every thing i stripped down the starter and bingo all 4 magnets loose and jammed up. Just a thought.
I had a look for a link but can't find it. I recall seeing a procedure somewhere for a starter motor stripdown and then glueing the magnets back into place with araldite (saves an expensive recon starter).
If I manage to find the link I'll post it up.
If I manage to find the link I'll post it up.
Well known repair on airhead valeo starters, and for added security, they can also be bolted into position.
But, the perceived wisdom as I see it, is that this is due to them being overheated, which on the oilhead, shouldn't happen as much as it's out in the breeze.
Bastille
Registered user
What can I say! Thank you very very much for your help and guidance with this. I have saved it to my favorites as I do with all these handy mechanical tips and procedures.
I've not been out to look at the bike since due to it being very cold and me not having a garage (got a Bikebarn)! However, I will tackle this concern when I do find a suitable place to do it, if I can get the bike to start to get it there! Will post my results/findings later.
Many thanks once again.
Ever had this problem with Starter Motor?
First of all I would like to say hello to everyone (My first post by the way...)
To the subject:
I do have a similar problem with the starter motor as The Laughing Mole.
Battery only 2 years old and fully charged, at least regarding to optimate3.
However the problem is/was only appearing occassionally so far.
After I read the post with the loose magnets I have checked my starter motor today (finally not bloody freezing anymore!).
By disassembling the stuff I have not found anything wrong with the fixing of the magnets in the stator but more wit the rotor itself.
Inside the motor housing is a planetary gear. This one is closed to the rotor side via a round metal lid (I guess to keep the grease in place). It seems that it came loose and was grinding on the coil of the rotor which led to a short.
Some Photos...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29115499@N04/sets/72157612408743877/detail/
Does anyone know if you can purchase these bits as individual spares?
Otherwise I am afraid I need a new starter motor.
First of all I would like to say hello to everyone (My first post by the way...)
To the subject:
I do have a similar problem with the starter motor as The Laughing Mole.
Battery only 2 years old and fully charged, at least regarding to optimate3.
However the problem is/was only appearing occassionally so far.
After I read the post with the loose magnets I have checked my starter motor today (finally not bloody freezing anymore!).
By disassembling the stuff I have not found anything wrong with the fixing of the magnets in the stator but more wit the rotor itself.
Inside the motor housing is a planetary gear. This one is closed to the rotor side via a round metal lid (I guess to keep the grease in place). It seems that it came loose and was grinding on the coil of the rotor which led to a short.
Some Photos...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29115499@N04/sets/72157612408743877/detail/
Does anyone know if you can purchase these bits as individual spares?
Otherwise I am afraid I need a new starter motor.
motobiker
Registered user
Give motorworks/ Motorbins or james sherlock.a ring in the morning... they're almost bound to have the parts you need. If not new then most certainly from an irrepairable (for other reasons) starter motor.
Bastille
Registered user
I wish to add this to my previous post in the hope that someone may be able to guide me in simple terms (not totally comfortable with electrical jargon/workings).
I still have the same problem. However, I purchased an odyssey battery in April 2008 for my GS1150R 03, 13,000 miles only, Battery model PC680GS. Since then I have taken the bike on a 2000 mile trip to Europe and local use here on the Island. Three weeks ago I tried to start the bike and had all the symptoms as described here! The bike did struggle to start once and as said, after stalling it re-starting it, with no problem, and then stopping, allowing the bike to cool and then starting again(going on a bit here) it has not started since.
Now, the battery has been on my CTek which shows it being fully charged. My volt meter shows that the battery now has only 12.88 volts and not the 14.60 that it should have, so I'm told. A friend of mine says this is not nearly enough. Is he correct? Can anyone offer some simple useful advice here please? All I want are some opinions regarding the 12.88 volts. I know I can possibly return it to the supplier. However, There is postage from here to the UK which I would like to avoid both ways if possible.
I know I'm open to lots of funny/wise comments here guys but serious advice would be more appreciated, bearing in mind, the low mileage, I removed and cleaned the starter sprocket/spindle which wasn't at all what I would call dirty. I think I'm looking at a battery problem here?
I still have the same problem. However, I purchased an odyssey battery in April 2008 for my GS1150R 03, 13,000 miles only, Battery model PC680GS. Since then I have taken the bike on a 2000 mile trip to Europe and local use here on the Island. Three weeks ago I tried to start the bike and had all the symptoms as described here! The bike did struggle to start once and as said, after stalling it re-starting it, with no problem, and then stopping, allowing the bike to cool and then starting again(going on a bit here) it has not started since.
Now, the battery has been on my CTek which shows it being fully charged. My volt meter shows that the battery now has only 12.88 volts and not the 14.60 that it should have, so I'm told. A friend of mine says this is not nearly enough. Is he correct? Can anyone offer some simple useful advice here please? All I want are some opinions regarding the 12.88 volts. I know I can possibly return it to the supplier. However, There is postage from here to the UK which I would like to avoid both ways if possible.
I know I'm open to lots of funny/wise comments here guys but serious advice would be more appreciated, bearing in mind, the low mileage, I removed and cleaned the starter sprocket/spindle which wasn't at all what I would call dirty. I think I'm looking at a battery problem here?
D6
Registered user
12.88 is fairly poor, was it disconnected when you got this reading?
On my ctek I see about 14.2 / 14.3v when the charger peaks. It then cycles IIRC down to 95% full before pumping up the voltage agin to 14.2 v. So I'd say 12.8 is not right.
Can you borrow another battery, ie one from a car and use jump leads to see if it starts ok? Your bike may have the jump start fittings. It'll be astud on the rear of the LH cylinder and another on the starter motor cover, along with the accessory socket, which IIRC is the +ve. You don't have it if to take the starter motor cover off you only have to undo the bolt and undo the accessory socket plug.
Otherwise a jump to the battery to see what happens would be my next try.
Can you borrow another battery, ie one from a car and use jump leads to see if it starts ok? Your bike may have the jump start fittings. It'll be astud on the rear of the LH cylinder and another on the starter motor cover, along with the accessory socket, which IIRC is the +ve. You don't have it if to take the starter motor cover off you only have to undo the bolt and undo the accessory socket plug.
Otherwise a jump to the battery to see what happens would be my next try.
D6
Registered user
also check your charger on a known, good battery
I'm no expert ( I did training on DC circuits/batteries relating to submarines years ago) but I reckon you would only see 14Volts+ at the battery terminals with the engine running and the alternator providing power. Assuming the weather is not much warmer than here at present, 12.88 volts is a realistic figure (6 cells at around 2 volts per cell).
I'd be looking for corroded terminals, starter relay, starter motor brushes or loose starter magnets etc before condemning the battery itself.
The only surefire way to test a battery is to put it under a load and see how it performs and for how long. To do that you need a battery drop-tester.
Why not phone the supplier and ask their advice ?? If they don't know the answer. they can always call THEIR suppliers.
I'd be looking for corroded terminals, starter relay, starter motor brushes or loose starter magnets etc before condemning the battery itself.
The only surefire way to test a battery is to put it under a load and see how it performs and for how long. To do that you need a battery drop-tester.
Why not phone the supplier and ask their advice ?? If they don't know the answer. they can always call THEIR suppliers.
D6
Registered user
agree that 12.88 cud be ok, if its left a while and still reads nearly the same?
Bastille
Registered user
Yes it was disconected and also it had been inside the house so it wasn't cold.
Similar threads
