So today I have fixed the intermittent oil temperature response on my RID and have now got a working petrol gauge after my recent scare in Orleans. Pretty simple swaps but typically expensive BMW parts, I used;
Plus cable clips and ties and some normal consumables.
I first tackled the oil temperature sensor and after removing the tank I disconnected the oil cooler line and the thermostat ring and after capturing the little oil that escaped removed the sensor unit without catching the remaining oil lines, the new one just screwed into place and I reconnected the cables using a little dielectric grease and then reconnected the oil cooler lines, tightening torque is 12nm.
Then with the tank drained I removed the fuel pump and filter mounting plate and lined up the new plate with the old one and methodically and very carefully swapped the fuel pump and strainer onto the new plate. I took the opportunity to renew the fuel filter as the unit was out of the tank and then refitted using a new O ring – tightening torque for the outer ring fixing bolts is 5nm.
Once the tank was back in place I refilled with about 20L and switched on – after about 10 seconds the fuel gauge started to show 2 then 3 the 4 bars – success. A shakedown ride (well you just have to don’t you) showed the oil temperature unit working correctly (back to five bars and normal temperature) and the fuel gauge was working fine.
The cause of the past failure is as usual wear on the simple spindle arm – mine had visible movement between the pin and the holding arm and consequently the sender was not in contact with the sliding contact so no reading, on a ten year old bike not bad so if this one lasts as long I will be pleased and it is a relief to have the gauge working again.
- AAA00073683 Petrol Gauge 30L @ £180
- TAA41008 O Ring @ 2:40
- AAA00073684 Clamps @ 4:70
- SIA Fuel Filter @ 10:00
- ELA41602 Oil Temperature Sensor @ £50
Plus cable clips and ties and some normal consumables.
I first tackled the oil temperature sensor and after removing the tank I disconnected the oil cooler line and the thermostat ring and after capturing the little oil that escaped removed the sensor unit without catching the remaining oil lines, the new one just screwed into place and I reconnected the cables using a little dielectric grease and then reconnected the oil cooler lines, tightening torque is 12nm.
Then with the tank drained I removed the fuel pump and filter mounting plate and lined up the new plate with the old one and methodically and very carefully swapped the fuel pump and strainer onto the new plate. I took the opportunity to renew the fuel filter as the unit was out of the tank and then refitted using a new O ring – tightening torque for the outer ring fixing bolts is 5nm.
Once the tank was back in place I refilled with about 20L and switched on – after about 10 seconds the fuel gauge started to show 2 then 3 the 4 bars – success. A shakedown ride (well you just have to don’t you) showed the oil temperature unit working correctly (back to five bars and normal temperature) and the fuel gauge was working fine.
The cause of the past failure is as usual wear on the simple spindle arm – mine had visible movement between the pin and the holding arm and consequently the sender was not in contact with the sliding contact so no reading, on a ten year old bike not bad so if this one lasts as long I will be pleased and it is a relief to have the gauge working again.
but that one is a removale clip, stainless all the way...
