After several people suggesting the 650 standard headlight is a bit on the dim side, I plumped for an LED headlight replacement bulb. Nothing special but it is dedicated offering for the 650 Xcountry (presumably the other two as well). I just got it from the usual e6ay for the princely sum of £18, which I think is a lot for a healight bulb, but it is cheaper than the HID systems used to be. The 1150GS HID bulbs were £100 for the pair, and I wasn't sure if they were worth it, so went for the higher output standard bulbs instead.
Anyway, back to the H4 LED replacement. here is how it arrivved in the box. There are various filters to change the colour temperature. I have lleft it standard - it is daylight matched. I can always add the filter later if I think it needs it.
Note how the heat sink is now incorporated in the back making it compact enough to fit inside the headlamp shell.
The healamp is retained in the shell by three socket screws, on mine anyway. Just unscrew the three retaining screws....
The rim comes off and the shell comes out.
The three pin socket is simply pulled off....
Take off the wires and then remove the weatherproofing rubber boot that covers all the bulbs.
Taking the bulb out just needs the double spring clip to be taken off the catches
Be careful the bulb doesn't just fall out, there is nothing else retaining it. So it will just lift out.
This LED bulb kit is suitable for either H4 or H7 fitments. The Xcountry is an H4 fitment. The retaining ring fits on the bulb with a bayonet mount, just unscrew it
Put the tube of the bulb through the rubber boot
Then fold the rubber boot back over itself so you can refit the bayonet ring
I won't pretend getting the wire springs past the upturned rubber boot is easy, but it is manageable with a little bit of swearing at it and digit dexterity - BEND THE BUGGERS ROUND.
Then get the two bayonets for the pilot bulb lined up with their slots in the rubber boot so the cables can be reattached
All that remains is to plug the 3-pin plug into the wiring loom 3-pin socket. There is a rubber boot on the plug end, but it didn't reach my socket! It doesn't matter, it is well protected anyway.
The heat sink and the plug both fit into the recess at the back of the headlight shell.
Bung it all back together with the three socket head screws....
Finally, turn on and check it all works! Hooray, we have light. This is on dip beam. I forgot to try it on high beam because it was so bright.
I still have to see what the shape and reach of the headlight throw is like, but I will do that on Monday - it is going to be chucking it down tomorrow.
Anyway, back to the H4 LED replacement. here is how it arrivved in the box. There are various filters to change the colour temperature. I have lleft it standard - it is daylight matched. I can always add the filter later if I think it needs it.
Note how the heat sink is now incorporated in the back making it compact enough to fit inside the headlamp shell.
The healamp is retained in the shell by three socket screws, on mine anyway. Just unscrew the three retaining screws....
The rim comes off and the shell comes out.
The three pin socket is simply pulled off....
Take off the wires and then remove the weatherproofing rubber boot that covers all the bulbs.
Taking the bulb out just needs the double spring clip to be taken off the catches
Be careful the bulb doesn't just fall out, there is nothing else retaining it. So it will just lift out.
This LED bulb kit is suitable for either H4 or H7 fitments. The Xcountry is an H4 fitment. The retaining ring fits on the bulb with a bayonet mount, just unscrew it
Put the tube of the bulb through the rubber boot
Then fold the rubber boot back over itself so you can refit the bayonet ring
I won't pretend getting the wire springs past the upturned rubber boot is easy, but it is manageable with a little bit of swearing at it and digit dexterity - BEND THE BUGGERS ROUND.
Then get the two bayonets for the pilot bulb lined up with their slots in the rubber boot so the cables can be reattached
All that remains is to plug the 3-pin plug into the wiring loom 3-pin socket. There is a rubber boot on the plug end, but it didn't reach my socket! It doesn't matter, it is well protected anyway.
The heat sink and the plug both fit into the recess at the back of the headlight shell.
Bung it all back together with the three socket head screws....
Finally, turn on and check it all works! Hooray, we have light. This is on dip beam. I forgot to try it on high beam because it was so bright.
I still have to see what the shape and reach of the headlight throw is like, but I will do that on Monday - it is going to be chucking it down tomorrow.
