1200/1250 GS Watercooled Engine Tuning

To me, who has only basic understanding of modern engine ecu tuning, what seems extremely complicated, once broken down into its component parts really is just a series of logic steps controlled by sensors. Whilst I have had 4 engines tuned using dynos to optimise the AFR and power/torque curves (doing research before hand to see what exhaust systems result in the most linear responses), I have also tuned many carburreted bikes myself, as well as whole engine rebuilds.

What has been immensely useful in this thread is the very logical breakdown of the principles behind how the ECU works (thank you Roger 04 RT for your very informative posts). As was said, the principles really are little different to carburetted bikes. More power = more air and more fuel with the ability to use that mixture efficiently and with engine life, smooth running and reliability factored in. The limit is reached by the amount of fuel that can be burnt efficiently, dictated by engine displacement, cam profiles (hence volumetric flow capacity of valve open durations), compression ratio, revolutions limits, ignition efficiency and things like exhaust design for best gas-flow and back-pressure.

BMW have obviously optimised running for their bikes for engine longevity with a sensible margin on reliability, so really (and especially looking at what the bike is) wanting significant power increases, one is better to look at an alternative bike that gives that from stock. It's often cheaper to buy a bike with more power as standard in the first place than to buy one with less power and tune it, so really where the big old GS1200 is concerned, most people recognise that and are really looking for improvements in drivability through the strangled emissions control areas where the bike is designed to run leaner and more efficiently.

I've only ridden a handful of WC GS1200 bikes, including my own and each one has felt slightly different. My current GSA is most definitely the smoothest one I've ridden (hence part of the reason I bought it) and doesn't seem to have any trouble pulling 6th from 45 to 50mph cleanly, and will pull hard all the way to the red line without any obvious significant dips. There is a very slight flat spot between 4,000 and 5,000 revs but it soon pulls through that and rockets away. I haven't noted any on-off lumpy fuelling at low revs save in dynamic mode. Then, filtering in 1st gear through traffic isn't the way to go as it can be a little jerky with the near instantaneous response but left on standard road mode and its fine. I'm unsure though of how typical my bike is of the breed as a whole, but if this does sound familiar, then I'd question really why anyone feels the need to go to the cost and trouble for really very small benefits. AF-XIED does seem a pretty good compromise to those just wanting to eliminate the 4 to 5K flat spot but for me, it pulls so quickly through that I'm not bothered personally. I may give the AF-XIED solution a go down the line but for now just enjoy riding the thing as it is. Standard.

:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap:thumb2:thumb2:thumb2:thumb2 great write up, but you will never convince the picky one,s me being one, so AF-Xied here I come, why because it exists and is real, as said by Roger 04RT.
 
... My current GSA is most definitely the smoothest one I've ridden (hence part of the reason I bought it) and doesn't seem to have any trouble pulling 6th from 45 to 50mph cleanly, and will pull hard all the way to the red line without any obvious significant dips. There is a very slight flat spot between 4,000 and 5,000 revs but it soon pulls through that and rockets away. I haven't noted any on-off lumpy fuelling at low revs save in dynamic mode. Then, filtering in 1st gear through traffic isn't the way to go as it can be a little jerky with the near instantaneous response but left on standard road mode and its fine. I'm unsure though of how typical my bike is of the breed as a whole, but if this does sound familiar, then I'd question really why anyone feels the need to go to the cost and trouble for really very small benefits. AF-XIED does seem a pretty good compromise to those just wanting to eliminate the 4 to 5K flat spot but for me, it pulls so quickly through that I'm not bothered personally. I may give the AF-XIED solution a go down the line but for now just enjoy riding the thing as it is. Standard.

That is how I felt after 4 months of riding my 2017 R1200. Although I’d originally developed the idea of shifting the O2 using an LC-1 for an R1150, where it was a real benefit, I was skeptical that I’d see a similar benefit on the LC. But, Nightrider was reporting errors on late model LCs so I wanted to see what was up.

Once Nightrider’s issue with errors was solved I put the test AF-XIEDs w/RAM on my LC and was pleasantly surprised by the low-mid RPM torque boost that translated to easier pull-away in 1st, smoother low gear autoshift, and riding around town in a gear higher. Could I live without it, sure. Do I plan to take it off, nah.
 
That is how I felt after 4 months of riding my 2017 R1200. Although I’d originally developed the idea of shifting the O2 using an LC-1 for an R1150, where it was a real benefit, I was skeptical that I’d see a similar benefit on the LC. But, Nightrider was reporting errors on late model LCs so I wanted to see what was up.

Once Nightrider’s issue with errors was solved I put the test AF-XIEDs w/RAM on my LC and was pleasantly surprised by the low-mid RPM torque boost that translated to easier pull-away in 1st, smoother low gear autoshift, and riding around town in a gear higher. Could I live without it, sure. Do I plan to take it off, nah.

:thumb2:thumb2:thumb2:thumb2:thumb2:clap:clap:clap:clap are you selling Roger...........:green gri
 
One thing to know is that the AF-XIED and/or LC-2 has not been tried on an R1250 which is in the thread title. The 1250 has an O2 after the cat which may or may not be a problem.
 
Rexxer do a map for the R1200GS.

Seems similar to something we are not allowed to use the name on here........;)

No, this is a traditional remap. Rexxer are pretty good at tweaking maps and perameters and you used to be able to just go along to one of the UK dealers and just have a map dumped into your bike. Ive seen older K12/13s with really great results.

The new tamper proof Bosch ECUs need the lid lifting off :eek:
 
No, this is a traditional remap. Rexxer are pretty good at tweaking maps and perameters and you used to be able to just go along to one of the UK dealers and just have a map dumped into your bike. Ive seen older K12/13s with really great results.

The new tamper proof Bosch ECUs need the lid lifting off :eek:

Interesting info that is, when you say tamper proof, you mean totally protected from re-flashing unless you have a BMW code or likewise, so how do they do it with the lid off, as the protection is surely in the chip in the ECU, lid off or not, looking forward to learning a bit more....:thumb2
 
Interesting info that is, when you say tamper proof, you mean totally protected from re-flashing unless you have a BMW code or likewise, so how do they do it with the lid off, as the protection is surely in the chip in the ECU, lid off or not, looking forward to learning a bit more....:thumb2

They have to take the lid off so they can make a direct connection to the chipset and bypass the protection on the obd route. On many of the protected ecu’s, any attempt to write over the oem code without satisfying the protection encryption bricks the ecu.

To my knowledge no one has ever managed to get past it to access the oem map other than via the method rexxer use. Which will be apparent to the oem if there is a warranty issue and possibly negated anyway if your dealer has any ecu updates and overwrites it.
 
They have to take the lid off so they can make a direct connection to the chipset and bypass the protection on the obd route. On many of the protected ecu’s, any attempt to write over the oem code without satisfying the protection encryption bricks the ecu.

To my knowledge no one has ever managed to get past it to access the oem map other than via the method rexxer use. Which will be apparent to the oem if there is a warranty issue and possibly negated anyway if your dealer has any ecu updates and overwrites it.

Loud and clear thanks...............:thumb2
 
Great to read an interesting & informative thread without all the nonsense. Thanks Chaps.
Smogbob, please keep us updated with how both the install & results go :thumb2
 
Great to read an interesting & informative thread without all the nonsense. Thanks Chaps.
Smogbob, please keep us updated with how both the install & results go :thumb2

Will do once Roger gets back to me so I am sure I order the correct kit, might take a few weeks to arrive, and then if I have time to fit it, might be September..........but looking forward to a bit more real farkle, that apparently does work...:D
 
After the units are installed......make sure to give the bike a good strong ride (no giggling down the back) using the full range of the throttle in all gears.........it may take a tank or two's worth of riding before the set up reaches its optimum.......but you will feel a change straight away.

Sent from a U11
 
After the units are installed......make sure to give the bike a good strong ride (no giggling down the back) using the full range of the throttle in all gears.........it may take a tank or two's worth of riding before the set up reaches its optimum.......but you will feel a change straight away.

Sent from a U11

What is that good strong ride you speak of Keith, my name is not stick, appreciate the tip....:thumb2 glad I got my order in seems lots are being ordered since a certain thing happened.
 
That’s the one. Mike at Beemerboneyard’s a really good guy. I buy most of my parts and supplies from him. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to call or email him.

Roger if you have contact with Mike please say Shaun from Germany has ordered, and will be nice if he sends them by private jet...............:D
 


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