How to fit a Stebel Magnum horn?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Larry
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Larry

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Prompted by recent threads about how easy it was to fit a Stebel Magnum horn I ordered one from Nippy Norman. Arrived nice and promptly so I took off the old one and went to fit the new one. Immediately realised I can't plug the plug in thingy from the old horn onto the new one (I'm good me!).

So, how do I do it? I'm assuming I cut the old connector off to give me two bare wires (scary) and then somehow attach the little spade connectors supplied to them. How do I connect these to the wires? The extent of my technical knowledge says squeeze them on with a pair of pliers but the do it properly bit of me says solder them on (as if I know how to solder!!). Also do I need to remove bits of the bike to make this easier or can it be done with everything intact and lots of swearing?

I know this is rubbish without pics but can't put any on at this 'puter. All answers gratefully received. Pics even better. Please keep it simple (hey, it took me about two months to realise I had to click the fuel cap down when I first got the bike!).

:confused:
 
I used pliers...and no bits had to come off the bike...just had someone to help hold it for me...
 
If you want to hold the crimps (spade connectors) on correctly, it is best to use a crimping tool. Thin plate type are available from car accessory shops, but the best ones are profesional that have a ratchet action. These crimp both the insulator & the metal bit at the same time.
Pliers might be OK, but if there is a proper tool?
 
Just had the crimping tool advice from one of the fellas at work so I think a raid on the fitters tools while they're not looking is coming up.

Cheers
 
Fitted mine yesterday mate.

Cut the BM plug of close so as to give you as much wire as possible to work with.

Unbolt the old Hooter and I used the BM bracket as it was better finished and just slightly shorter. I put a anti slip washer inbetween the bracket and Ten MM nut so it was even more secure. Trial fit the new Hooter, One nut under Headstock, you will need to swivel it round to get the connectors as near to the wires as possible. I dropped some solder on the wires and spade connecter as well as crimping, DONT FORGET TO SLIDE THE PLASTIC CONNECTOR COVERS ON over the wires before you crimp or solder.

To make life that bit easier I cut the cable ties in a couple of places to give a little more room to work with the loom, easy to replace with new cable ties after.

Finaly push the connectors on, any way round dont matter then check full lock in both directions for no fouling of wiring.

Last step - Annoy all in the surrounding area with blasts from the new louder and best of all deeper sounding Hooter.

Cheers.......BB;)
 
Bronco Billy said:
Last step - Annoy all in the surrounding area with blasts from the new louder and best of all deeper sounding Hooter.

Cheers.......BB;)
Click to expand...

Horn now fitted and have done carried out last step in depth!. Replaced the spade connectors for precoated ones as meant didn't have to thread any bits on. Had a bit of help with crimping but otherwise easy. Cheers for advice.
 
I fiited one and didn't change the connectors at all. Original loom has female spades that connect straight on to the new horn. Original spade insulators are a bit 'big' but work fine, don't come loose. Can't see whats to be gained in chopping them off?
 
Ah young flipper !

Thats because you have the more user friendly 1100, not the over complex 1150 !
 
Re: Ah young flipper !

oblertone said:
Thats because you have the more user friendly 1100, not the over complex 1150 !
Click to expand...

Never thought of that.:idea
Surprised that BMW havn't added a servo to make horn button operation easier!
;)
 
Have had my horn fitted for a few months now. If you keep the same wiring, which routes through a relay anyway on the 1150, you will find that the fuse will blow. I have upped my fuse to a 15amp which has cured the problem of the blowing fuses and doesn't seem to have caused any other problems.
 
fitting stebel magnum...what am I doing wrong?

Bronco Billy said:
Fitted mine yesterday mate.

Cut the BM plug of close so as to give you as much wire as possible to work with.


To make life that bit easier I cut the cable ties in a couple of places to give a little more room to work with the loom, easy to replace with new cable ties after.

Finaly push the connectors on, any way round dont matter then check full lock in both directions for no fouling of wiring.


I am fitting a Stebel Magnum on my 1150 GS, following the helpful guidance on this thread.

However, the BMW cable to the horn does not seem to reach the Stebel connectors. The Stebel is mounted on the bracket with the bracket running backward (to ensure the horn does not foul the steering). Rotating the Stebel does not seem to solve the problem.

Only option seems to be to cut into yhe loom and break out the horn cable which I am reluctant to do.

Have I missed something?

Simon
Click to expand...
 
Simon do a search there are quite a few threads on this, with lots sof comments.
I fitted one not long ago and had to cut the outer cover of the loom back to liberate some slack for the horn wires so they would reach and give a little slack

:thumb
 
Everybody seems to be trying to make the present wiring reach. I cut the plug off, soldered a new two-core cable to the end of the horn wire using heat-shrink tubing to ensure no ingress of water, then fed the cable forward and down the side of the horn using two cable ties (top and bottom) and looped it underneath to two spade connectors (the loop ensures water runs off and not into the spade connections!). This works very well and doesn't involve any invasive surgery into the wiring looms!
As my previous thread, the only other mod is to up the fuse rating to 15amp.
Great horn - when cars are honked they know they've done wrong!
 
After a lot of procrastination I fitted the Stebel Magnum yesterday, using a crimping tool and a short length of extra 2 strand cable to get the length right. Turned out easier than I expected.

However the sound is diappointingly Mr Toad parrrrp-like rather than loud and authoritative. Is it possible that I have connected the bracket too tightly to the Stebel plastic cover so it limits necessary movement? The bolt is rather short so would not permit a spacer, nor was a small washer supplied.

Any thoughts or experience on why this is lacking in volume/power?

Thanks

Simon
 
Mines loud enought to wake the dead.

Is it the 'LOW' tone horn?

Has any packaging fallen into the trumpet?

Have you washed the bike and got water in it? If so, cover with a piece of kitchen towel etc and keep pressing until the water comes out. Usually takes about 30 secs.

Hope this helps.

Mike R
 
simondippenhall said:
After a lot of procrastination I fitted the Stebel Magnum yesterday, using a crimping tool and a short length of extra 2 strand cable to get the length right. Turned out easier than I expected.

However the sound is diappointingly Mr Toad parrrrp-like rather than loud and authoritative. Is it possible that I have connected the bracket too tightly to the Stebel plastic cover so it limits necessary movement? The bolt is rather short so would not permit a spacer, nor was a small washer supplied.

Any thoughts or experience on why this is lacking in volume/power?

Thanks

Simon
Click to expand...

You have probably got the wires crossed - disconnect them and swap positions and insert earplugs before testing :D
 
Hi
I am resurrecting a very old thread here. I have a stebel horn I want to fit to my 1150. I had it on an older bike and I wired it using a relay. But it looks like a relay is not needed, is that correct? Also, where is the fuse for the current horn, it looks like I just need to upgrade it to a 15amp.

Cheers
P
 
Sadly I have downgraded to a F800GT now, but I found with the 1150GS that just changing tne fuse did indeed "fix" the problem of it blowing. In the time I had it that never caused any other wiring/overheating problems. The biggest current draw is to get the motor started on the horn, so it's only a momentary BIG draw of current.

Regards

Tony

P.S. I must get round to selling all my 1150 GS "farkles" one of these days..... MRA screen, GSA screen + Tobinators, y-piece etc
 
Tony T said:
Sadly I have downgraded to a F800GT now, but I found with the 1150GS that just changing tne fuse did indeed "fix" the problem of it blowing. In the time I had it that never caused any other wiring/overheating problems. The biggest current draw is to get the motor started on the horn, so it's only a momentary BIG draw of current.

Regards

Tony

P.S. I must get round to selling all my 1150 GS "farkles" one of these days..... MRA screen, GSA screen + Tobinators, y-piece etc
Click to expand...

Great, should be a quick simple job so.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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