Alpes-de-Haute-Provence to Millau etc.

[Cook1e]

Thursday 27th

A night at the decidedly average Hotel Vauban (the only hotel in the village) and then on to explore Entrevaux and the citadel. The fortified village is very compact, with no vehicular access apart from a few motorbikes.

Climbing steeply from the town is the zig-zag track up to the citadel, guarded by a fierce white cat. 3 Euro gets you a “jeton” or token to open the turnstile, then a seemingly endless climb, with a few stops to recover from incipient cardiac arrest, to the fortification.

Hotel Vauban looks OK from this distance...

Onwards & upwards...

Where's the bloody funincular when you need it eh?

 

[Cook1e]

It's quite a construction, with battlements, arrow loops, dungeons, underground cisterns, cells and living quarters. Note the French hospitality to their German guests during the 1st war. At least they had a good view through the bars!

As the place itself is quite hazardous and also undergoing the long process of refurbishment, most of it is fenced off and prohibited to the public, with warning signs everywhere – oh, wait!

This is not England, so adults are treated as such and you can go where you please, within reason.

Hot & cold running water (at some stage in the not-too-distant past, anyway)

These planks bent alarmingly under the substantial weight of a full-grown tosser, though

Of course the terrible results of this lackadaisical French attitude to 'elf & safety is evident from the dead and injured people lying everywhere and the constant news reports of accidents caused by the lack of proper nannying...

 

[Cook1e]

From Entrevaux through the spectacular Verdon Gorge, stopping at Lake Castillon (the Verdon river dammed for hydro power) to photograph the incredibly blue water.

This was the busiest area I had seen since Lyon, with loads of camper vans, bikes and other tourist traffic. Perhaps distracted by the fabulous scenery, a camper van tried to run me off the road, hogging half my lane as well as his own, with a sheer drop to my right. Later on I saw another camper van do the same to a delivery van, but he lost his wing mirror for his inattention (or lack of awareness of the width of his vehicle).

Stopped at Castellane for a light lunch of cous-cous, and avoided climbing up to see the famous church on the hill.

Point Sublime had to be visited for the best viewpoint in the Verdon. My sis is a climber, so I took most of the photos to make her jealous

The damned satnav led me a merry dance trying to get on the “shortest route” from Point Sublime to Digne-les-Bains. I bottled out of an “unpaved road” which looked like a steep game trail and headed back to Castellane to pick up the Route Napoleon. Good choice! I figure Napoleon must have been a biker. Perfect surface, smooth, sweeping bends and great scenery.

Stayed the night in Digne, after struggling to find the town centre and being told to turn round by a gendarme who saw me going the wrong way up a one-way street (bloody satnav again!). Hotel de Provence very nice apart from 3 flights of steep stairs to my room and very flaky wifi.

 

[modelman]

excellent report

Great stuff. Thoroughly enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Rasher]

Top post(s)

Why is our country so crap that even France pisses all over it

 

[John Armstrong]

I bottled out of the Col de la Moutiere when the satnav said "take unpaved road" which looked like Edmund Hillary would be down it in a moment, roped to Tenzing Norgay. Maybe on a smaller bike, unladen, with knobbly tyres.

And an ambulance on standby.

Looks interesting:

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/TFoP0Fkgo5s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

in nice weather!

 

[Cook1e]

Friday 28th

Another late-ish start further up Route Napoleon to Sisteron, another mediaeval citadel which I avoided climbing up to. Instead, I had a pleasant wander round the old town and photographed more wildlife – this time tiny hummingbirds feasting on the municipal geraniums and a sulphur-crested cockatoo hopping round the carpark. This bird was either tame or injured as it didn't try & fly away.

You can see Sisteron in the distance, just above the substation:

Then a steady ride through varied countryside to Buis-les-Baronnies to stay with fellow tosser, John Thornley, at his restored 3-story place at Buis les Baronnies. Check out http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31279

We met his neighbours, Serge, Bruno & Joelle and a good night was had over a bucket of mussels poached in white wine and several plates of frites. By the time the evening was over, we were all also poached in white wine – very nice! A bottle of red back at John's to round off the evening and then comatose until the morn zzzzzzz.

 

[Cook1e]

Saturday 29th

started grey (as did my head after last night), then the sun came out, so a brief visit to the internet cafe for a coffee, check emails and weather forecast. Beer was called for as noon approached, after which I went for a short walk before the forecast rain arrived and John went back to construct a pizza from onions which his neighbour had dropped off that morning, plus some anchovies & olive oil.

We had intended to have a ride out to see the Roman ruins at Vaison-la-Romaine, but rain was coming down in stair-rods, so we holed up, put some music on, ate pizza and drunk beer while I wrote up a few days trip and played with the photos (check out the panorama in the post above, from Point Sublime, stitched together from 3 shots).

 

[Cook1e]

Sunday 30th

Thunderstorms & rain had been forecast, but all we could see was blue sky & sun, except to the East. After a slow start, we decided to risk getting wet & had a run out west to Vaison-la-Romaine.

An unexpected car boot sale was in full swing, at which John was pleased to purchase a collectible DuPont lighter for a few Euro. Later on, looking on eBay similar items were discovered to be going for much more, so a profitable ride!

We had a quick look at the Roman remains from outside the fence, followed by a good lunch of duck and then just beat the rain home - result!

Pizza at l'Etoile restaurant in John's village for dinner, then to bed for an “early” start on Monday.

 

[Cook1e]

Monday 1st

Monday 1st was John's birthday, so we had bacon, egg & tomato with HP sauce for breakfast. I bid farewell to John and Buis and headed for Mont Ventoux, which was completely spectacular. I climbed as far up as I could and took 360 degree pictures which the confuser stitched into a panorama.

 

[Cook1e]

On to Orange, which had a very interesting Roman amphitheatre. I saw a couple of falconers, who seemed to be employed to keep the pigeons from living on the structure, but they had both lost their hawks, who would not be called back – presumably they were dining on fresh pigeon!

Loads of fascinating stuff here, but the most interesting thing I learned was that statues of Roman Emperors had interchangeable heads, replacements being sent from Rome whenever there was a new Emperor. The theatre's still used for plays, opera, concerts etc and the 'roadies' were setting up for something at the weekend.

Orange also has an Arc de Triomphe

And beer

Next was Avignon. I found a room at Hotel Kyriad in the city centre and parked in the square next to the hotel. As I checked in, I was advised to move the bike, or it may be towed. I found it very difficult to identify a parking spot, but eventually put the bike inside some bollards next to a pedestrian zone. I was a bit worried that it would be OK, but next morning, I found that I had started a trend!

3-course dinner at "Au Petit Nice" for reasonable money, then to kip.

 

[Cook1e]

Tuesday 2nd

Avignon was full of Yanks & Japanese/Chinese, despite spraying to eradicate them.

It is a very beautiful city, though the famous song was originally “Sous (bars etc. were located under the bridge) not Sur (Church on the bridge – no dancing allowed!) le Pont d'Avignon”.

From Avignon to Pont du Gard, a restored Roman aqueduct. Most impressive and set in lovely grounds, with visitor centre and all the stuff. Had a wander round, very photogenic.

Stopped for a swift pastis, then returned to the car park, where it seemed that, although the price was stated as 12 Euro to park the bike and up to 2 people access the grounds etc., it would insist on taking me for 18 Euro, the car price. Stuff that, so I snuck out for free in the slipstream of a camper van.

A 1,200 - year old olive tree!

I headed for Mont Aigual in the early afternoon, but struggled with the very hot & bright weather. Heading west into the sun, it was dazzlingly bright on the twisty,narrow mountain roads, but I could not see into shady areas with my tinted visor down. Then the low fuel warning light came on and the satnav led me (slowly & carefully) to the nearest petrol station. I thus found myself in Le Vigan, where I met Sandrine and her young son Danny, who had moved back to France from HK for his health. “Why did you choose to come to Le Vigan?” asked Sandrine. “I am lost”, said I. Good craic, a few drinks, really good meal. Recommend Hotel du Commerce (35 EU + garage for bike) & Restaurant des Chandeliers. I plotted my route through Tarn Gorge to Millau for morning.

 

[Cook1e]

Wednesday 3rd

I found Le Vigan on the map – a bit further South than I'd planned, but an interesting diversion. I aimed for Ispagnac at the head of the Tarn Gorge, which became a bit challenging and tortuous route courtesy of “shortest distance” on the satnav. On the way, I passed a marker for the watershed, where France drains into the Atlantic rather than the Med.

Stopping at Florac for a coffee, I was interested to listen to the cafe proprietor speaking to his wife – he had a French accent different from any I had heard. “Must be a regional thing”, I mused. When I paid him, I asked the way to the toilet and he answered me in English with a Brummie accent! “What brings a Brummie to Florac?” I asked. “Girlfriend's bar!”, he replied, with a big grin.

When I arrived at Ispagnac, I couldn't resist a photo of the “desert edition” Renault 4 in the carpark.

The bridge was one of the first across the river in the 1700s. There was also a sign warning of cyanobacteria in the water – toxic to humans & dogs – and evidence of earlier river crossings.

Further down the Gorge, the scenery and history became more interesting. At Castelbouc is the best-preserved of a number of fortified settlements, with terraced farmland around.

St-Chely-du-Tarn was very picturesque, incorporating a little waterfall into its buildings. The river was a very clear blue/green, with fish clearly visible, sunning themselves.

The bike's parked outside the communal bread-oven. When I came back from my photographic walkabout, I found an R1200GS parked up next to it, with a French couple onboard. We had the usual natter in Franglais - he told me that he used to have a K1300RT, which his missus preferred, but he liked the handling of the GS. He wanted to know where to get a stubby exhaust like mine to replace the silencer, but I told him I didn't think that worked with the 1200. I pointed to my UKGSer sticker, so he may be along for advice.

 

[Cook1e]

The Tarn Gorge is different from those I rode through at Verdon etc., as the road follows the river, rather than up a height. Also, the geology is different – there are “causses”, or limestone plateaus in often strange shapes and formations above the gorge.

The remains of more fortifications were plentiful. Hautrives is one of a few settlements on the left bank of the Tarn which have no bridge, so they are supplied via cable-lifts. As the sign on the cable motor forbids its use for the transport of people, I wondered how the residents left the village?

I rode up to “Point Sublime” (France seems to have quite a few of these), to get the view from above. Stunning vistas and,circling over rocks much higher, vultures (they're the little black specks in the sky above the dead tree & rocks!).

I rounded a bend in the main road approaching Millau and had my first glimpse of the viaduct. Unfortunately, it was a fast dual carriageway with no possibility to stop for a photo.

I installed myself in the Ibis hotel, in a room which overlooked a church from which organ music could be heard. I took a quick shower & went out for a listen to the organist practising before a quick wander round town. Millau is modern & busy, but I couldn't find a view of the viaduct. However, high above the town, I saw more vultures circling - oh, wait, they're hang (or para) gliders...

An entertaining meal in the Brasserie opposite my hotel, in the company of a couple from England returning from Spain and an old couple from Belfast, who insisted on addressing the waiters in Spanish, much to everybody's amusement (except perhaps the waiters).

 

[Cook1e]

Thursday 4th

In the morning, I was determined to find a decent shot of the viaduct, so I headed under it to the visitor centre and thence further West down the gorge, heading round to the southern slip-road and then North OVER the viaduct itself.

North up the A75 towards Puy-de-Dome, via the Viaduc de Garabit, constructed between 1882 and 1884 by Gustave Eiffel (of Tower fame). No doubt this was as amazing in its day as the Millau Viaduct is today.

Unfortunately, Puy-de-Dome had its head (and most of its abdomen) hidden by low cloud, so I didn't bother riding up it and instead headed for somewhere to stop for the night.

 

[Cook1e]

Friday 5th

Vichy is a bit like Harrogate, but without the youthful joie-de-vivre. The town is famous for its "healing" spa water and that it was the Nazi HQ in occupied France.

It appears to be geared up for rich old people with arthritis and similar complaints, none of which I identify with. Is the sulphurous smell the water or the visitors?

Hotel Kyriad was small but comfortable, apart from a group of noisy geriatric Germans. I did mention the war once, but I think I got away with it

5-star hotel behind the pavilion was not accessible to plebs like me, but I got a shot of a vintage Bugatti (I think - no doubt someone on here will tell me the model and year) which was hors de combat:

 

[Cook1e]

FIN!

And so the time to head home had arrived. A few hundred miles from Vichy to Calais, via the outskirts of Paris. Big mistake! The A104 was blocked by an accident and traffic was stationary for miles. French bikers are completely mad!

I was filtering at my usual, safe, boring 20mph or so, but pulling in every few minutes to let native commuters past who were doing 60-70 mph between lanes of cars. It is no surprise that the Parisian police are clamping down on bikers...

Wish I'd been able to take pictures.

Home without further incidents, stopping at the Premier Inn Ashford North (recommended), where I dined on steak and breakfasted on bacon, eggs sausage and all the works (I'd missed that - man cannot live on croissants and jam!).

That's it for now - thanks to all for advice before the trip and kind comments on the report. Where next, I wonder?

 

[(RIP) andrewgsadv]

Really enjoyed your trip report,some excellent photos. France for us again next year.Thanks for taking the time to post.

Andrew

 

[Cook1e]

Really enjoyed your trip report,some excellent photos. France for us again next year.Thanks for taking the time to post.

Andrew

Cheers Andrew, glad you enjoyed it - for me it's important to write down where I've been before I forget!

Where in Sheffield? - I lived in Havelock Square, Fulwood, Southgrove and a few other places in the 70s & 80s. Great city it was, not been back for a while.

 

[franco]

Fair enjoyed that Obviously been to loads of those places, but nice to someone else's perspective on it.
Note to self, must get over the Gorges du Tarn again, only four hours from here.

Thanks for sharing

Rob