Seen this post: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1349576&postcount=24 
► Lights, indicators, electrics and alarm
- Thread starter Cole
- Start date
TERRY RYAN
Registered user
Looking good what you going to power from the Centech fuse unit ???
I was going to run my gps from the spare canbus plug as per mod on here
and got the instrument cover on order with aux socket integrated into panel was going to wire that direct to battery to use it as a charge point for my optimate
and my heated jacket not that I ever wear it cause I'm hard as nails
next question Micky is where did you get GPS mount from so quick I have one on order from -- like hens teeth at present
maybe you are right about the silver bash plate, no no you are right,
it will have the used look after an hour
p.s my bike has been delayed by one week
I was going to run my gps from the spare canbus plug as per mod on here
and got the instrument cover on order with aux socket integrated into panel was going to wire that direct to battery to use it as a charge point for my optimate
and my heated jacket not that I ever wear it cause I'm hard as nails
next question Micky is where did you get GPS mount from so quick I have one on order from -- like hens teeth at present
maybe you are right about the silver bash plate, no no you are right,
it will have the used look after an hour
p.s my bike has been delayed by one week
Hi Terry
Picked mine up today
Love it to bits... handles great, even on the drying greasy roads on new tyres
I want the Centech unit to wire up..
1) !2 volt aux socket, heated jacket (I'm not hard) charging, camplight etc.
2) Main GPS Nav III so that I can have it on without the ignition having to be on.
3) Aux Xenon headlight when I get round to it
4) Backup Garmin Quest. I had the Nav II jetwashed by the friendly bikers in Siberia, and ended up having to navigate across the Altai mountains of Mongolia without GPS. Also to use the Quest from walking out from hotels in far off lands so that I can find mi way back again
Off through Africa next year hopefully
GPS mount adapted from one hanging around from the standard 1200GS (I think) The verticles are further apart on the F800GS, but the width of the clamp screws centres are the same, so took out the cross metal piece (hacksaw and file) and made up a new tube piece for the Nav III mount. Powder coated and hey presto
I'm down at Touratech (Schwarzwald) in a couple of weeks... so gonna get misen a couple of things. Going for the Touratech hand guards and centre stand alloy plate. Not particularly keen on the BMW hand guards for the F800GS
My shopping list comes to errr mmmmm aaaaaagh !!!!!!!
Then up to Wunderlich
The outfit in the background is son's (Laughing Gas) Yamaha + Merlin.
It took us twenty minutes to get to Rainbow this morning, and thirtyfive minutes to get me out di chair
I can understand why the Pope kisses the ground when he gets off an aeroplane
Picked mine up today
Love it to bits... handles great, even on the drying greasy roads on new tyres
I want the Centech unit to wire up..
1) !2 volt aux socket, heated jacket (I'm not hard) charging, camplight etc.
2) Main GPS Nav III so that I can have it on without the ignition having to be on.
3) Aux Xenon headlight when I get round to it
4) Backup Garmin Quest. I had the Nav II jetwashed by the friendly bikers in Siberia, and ended up having to navigate across the Altai mountains of Mongolia without GPS. Also to use the Quest from walking out from hotels in far off lands so that I can find mi way back again
Off through Africa next year hopefully
GPS mount adapted from one hanging around from the standard 1200GS (I think) The verticles are further apart on the F800GS, but the width of the clamp screws centres are the same, so took out the cross metal piece (hacksaw and file) and made up a new tube piece for the Nav III mount. Powder coated and hey presto
I'm down at Touratech (Schwarzwald) in a couple of weeks... so gonna get misen a couple of things. Going for the Touratech hand guards and centre stand alloy plate. Not particularly keen on the BMW hand guards for the F800GS
My shopping list comes to errr mmmmm aaaaaagh !!!!!!!
Then up to Wunderlich
The outfit in the background is son's (Laughing Gas) Yamaha + Merlin.
It took us twenty minutes to get to Rainbow this morning, and thirtyfive minutes to get me out di chair
I can understand why the Pope kisses the ground when he gets off an aeroplane
Attachments
sijohnston
Registered user
800 Lights
Living in the arse-end of nowhere (or at least you can see it from here!), with no light pollution and plenty of roads with no street lights and plenty of wandering sheep (steady Wizard!), this is pretty important for me. I have to say that the headlights are about the most worthless thing on my new bike. Les Wassall thinks the 35 HID's having smaller ballasts etc are better set up for the more 'off-road' bike. Has anyone had any experience of these over and against the 50's? He's working on positioning the ballasts and believes there to be good room around the front sub-frame v.near the lights.
Living in the arse-end of nowhere (or at least you can see it from here!), with no light pollution and plenty of roads with no street lights and plenty of wandering sheep (steady Wizard!), this is pretty important for me. I have to say that the headlights are about the most worthless thing on my new bike. Les Wassall thinks the 35 HID's having smaller ballasts etc are better set up for the more 'off-road' bike. Has anyone had any experience of these over and against the 50's? He's working on positioning the ballasts and believes there to be good room around the front sub-frame v.near the lights.
BM_donator
Registered user
High Level Brake Light Connection
Anyone out there with canbus experience know how to connect a high-level brake light ?
(I like the one on my Givi box - drivers seem to take more notice)
Nippy Norms quotes the following for their brake light;
Tail light ------------ Yellow
Stop light ---------- Red
Ground ------------ Black
Is it this straight forward - and if so, where would be the best place to link in?
Anyone out there with canbus experience know how to connect a high-level brake light ?
(I like the one on my Givi box - drivers seem to take more notice)
Nippy Norms quotes the following for their brake light;
Tail light ------------ Yellow
Stop light ---------- Red
Ground ------------ Black
Is it this straight forward - and if so, where would be the best place to link in?
F650 is an internal alternator with an external rectifier
and the 1200's are external car type ones with belt drive
NOT interchangeable!
S'easy as that
There was an outfit in america that were doing upgrades for airheads form the 240W to 400W
Maybe they do something similar for the rotax??? In reality 400w should be more than adequate for a single cyl bike i.e. you only have a fuel pump and ignition and intermittent lights No servo ABS or stiff like that even heated grips don't draw that much currect?
and the 1200's are external car type ones with belt drive
NOT interchangeable!
S'easy as that
There was an outfit in america that were doing upgrades for airheads form the 240W to 400W
Maybe they do something similar for the rotax??? In reality 400w should be more than adequate for a single cyl bike i.e. you only have a fuel pump and ignition and intermittent lights No servo ABS or stiff like that even heated grips don't draw that much currect?
Cole
Registered user
Thinking of the new twin cylinder 650 / 800 job ... which on high beam is using twice as much in terms of light power (now that they have separate high and lows) than the old 650 with its single H4 bulb. And if I do get ABS and heated grips (and maybe even a heated vest), then I am wondering how it will cope with additional fogs and driving lights.
I might have to restrict myself to one fog and one driving light ... touratech style ... that would be a great shame
ABS does not use power unless it's working and at that stage you won't give a feck about a flat battery
2 headlamps yes but 60watts approx each if the driving lamps are to create a presence(i.e. be more visible to other road users) then just use led bulbs
If you're still concerned change the dip bulb to an H.I.D with the external regulator pack and your consumption on start is high but drops quickly off to a measly 35watts
There's ways and means
Heated jacket, and heated grips, and high power headlight, and ABS and all the other bits on at the same time are ok on my 650 Dakar.
Headlights..... 115 watts
Spotlights....... 100 watts
BMW jacket..... 37 watts
That gives 252 watts..... I doubt that a GPS will draw more than 25, likewise an Autocom. So that leaves 200 watts for the grips and ABS. I think it should be OK.
Spotlights....... 100 watts
BMW jacket..... 37 watts
That gives 252 watts..... I doubt that a GPS will draw more than 25, likewise an Autocom. So that leaves 200 watts for the grips and ABS. I think it should be OK.
Cole
Registered user
I am now thinking of building my own custom headlight unit, with a pair of Audi A6 bi-xenon projectors (hi / low) with 50 watt HIDs in them. Wrap some BMW car "angel eyes" parking lights around them. Having two HID's on low beam should do away with the need for fogs. That takes care of standard lighting for about 105 watts.
100 watts for a pair of 50w HID spots.
Then its the bike itself (probably an average of 20-30 watts for all the assorted electronics - ECU, ABS, indicators, trip computer etc etc)
GPS, heated vest, battery charger ... yep should just fit within the 400w when in winter with spot lights on.
Only trick with that is going to be how the canbus reacts to having 100 watt consumption on low beam.
100 watts for a pair of 50w HID spots.
Then its the bike itself (probably an average of 20-30 watts for all the assorted electronics - ECU, ABS, indicators, trip computer etc etc)
GPS, heated vest, battery charger ... yep should just fit within the 400w when in winter with spot lights on.
Only trick with that is going to be how the canbus reacts to having 100 watt consumption on low beam.
BM_donator
Registered user
And the answer is....
Attacked the job today with the aid of a multi-meter.
The rear light connector is accessible under the tail cover and the wiring is as follows;
grey/white - positive
brown - negative
The good news is the positive connection doubles as a tail/stoplight with 4v normal and 12v under braking.
The high level led's on my givi box are now an additional tail and brake light
Have tested the tail and brake lights for a couple of hours to ensure no overload and all seems fine.
Dashed fiendish these germans!
Attacked the job today with the aid of a multi-meter.
The rear light connector is accessible under the tail cover and the wiring is as follows;
grey/white - positive
brown - negative
The good news is the positive connection doubles as a tail/stoplight with 4v normal and 12v under braking.
The high level led's on my givi box are now an additional tail and brake light
Have tested the tail and brake lights for a couple of hours to ensure no overload and all seems fine.
Dashed fiendish these germans!
Chadx
Guest
Isn't 400w the max output? Does anyone know at what rpm one has to run to get that? At lower rpm, won't it produce less? Running multiple sets of lights on a cold night (with heated vest) would also tend to be when one slows due to the reduced visibility of darkness resulting in a lower rpm. I guess one could just drop to a lower gear, in that specific situation, to keep the rpm up.
NorCalDave
Guest
I am now thinking of building my own custom headlight unit, with a pair of Audi A6 bi-xenon projectors (hi / low) with 50 watt HIDs in them. Wrap some BMW car "angel eyes" parking lights around them. Having two HID's on low beam should do away with the need for fogs. That takes care of standard lighting for about 105 watts.
100 watts for a pair of 50w HID spots.
Then its the bike itself (probably an average of 20-30 watts for all the assorted electronics - ECU, ABS, indicators, trip computer etc etc)
GPS, heated vest, battery charger ... yep should just fit within the 400w when in winter with spot lights on.
Only trick with that is going to be how the canbus reacts to having 100 watt consumption on low beam.
Going with 50 watt HID's for your headlight bulbs sounds like total overkill to me and just might be blinding to oncoming drivers even on low beam alone. Most guys I've heard of doing HID conversions on the 1200GS/GSA bikes are totally happy going with 35 watt HID kits. A 35 watt HID is supposed to give like three times the light output of a 55 watt Halogen bulb.
I have a 1990 Transalp with only a 310 watt alternator and considered going HID on my headlight's H4 bulb but decided I don't want to lose my headlight modulator feature. Instead, I'm fitting a pair of Hella FF50 driving lights and will do the "Eyes of God" 35 watt HID conversion mod to them down the road. For info on this modification, see this thread on HID conversions at ADVrider and start at post #176.
Cole
Registered user
Hi Dave n welcome to the site.
Re 35 watt HIDs you are preaching to the wrong guy. "50 watt motorcycle HIDs" is my middle name.
There are hundreds of us GS, GSA (and KTM and Triumph) guys here in the UK riding around with 50 watt HIDs from www.HID50.com, not to mention riders in Greece, Holland, Italy, Portugal, Germany, Denmark, Spain, France, Australia, Canada and the USA using the HID50 kits.
With a TransAlp you can put whatever you want on it. You dont have a canbus (unlike the F800GS) that often gives a permanent bulb failure warning if its not drawing sufficient current, and the TransAlps H4 bulb only comes in 35 watts anyway when it comes to HID.
Just make sure you get yourself a high quality bulb. H4 conversions are notoriously bad (until recently we refused to offer H4 kits) and there basically is no H4 HID bulb out there that can get the light source in the correct place for both high beam and low beam. None.
Re 35 watt HIDs you are preaching to the wrong guy. "50 watt motorcycle HIDs" is my middle name.
There are hundreds of us GS, GSA (and KTM and Triumph) guys here in the UK riding around with 50 watt HIDs from www.HID50.com, not to mention riders in Greece, Holland, Italy, Portugal, Germany, Denmark, Spain, France, Australia, Canada and the USA using the HID50 kits.
With a TransAlp you can put whatever you want on it. You dont have a canbus (unlike the F800GS) that often gives a permanent bulb failure warning if its not drawing sufficient current, and the TransAlps H4 bulb only comes in 35 watts anyway when it comes to HID.
Just make sure you get yourself a high quality bulb. H4 conversions are notoriously bad (until recently we refused to offer H4 kits) and there basically is no H4 HID bulb out there that can get the light source in the correct place for both high beam and low beam. None.
blackie
Guest
Jump starting
Ok being new to BMW, it's FI system AND Canbus.
Can the new 650/800 be jumpstarted like any other bike/car? Am building up a travel kit
Ok being new to BMW, it's FI system AND Canbus.
Can the new 650/800 be jumpstarted like any other bike/car? Am building up a travel kit
For one idea you could have a look here: http://www.nippynormans.com/products.asp?dept=405
HTWB
Guest
Service indicator
I fitted a TT instrument cover last week to my 650GS twin. Spacers weren't quite the right size but managed to pad one a bit. Certainly improves the look. However - fitting involves disconnecting the feed to the instrument panel. When reconnecting the display appeared tho the ignition was off. All works OK except the service indicator is now indicating a service is due even tho the first service was done recently.
Looked at handbook. It says that if the battery is disconnected the computer loses track of the date and service indication maybe incorrect. '.....if you want to have the date set consult a specialist workshop preferably an authorised Motorrad dealer.'
Pretty annoying if you want to disconnect the battery for charging. (though the TT cover comes with a power socket I wired directly to the battery)
Anyone know how to set the date without going to a Motorrad dealer?
I fitted a TT instrument cover last week to my 650GS twin. Spacers weren't quite the right size but managed to pad one a bit. Certainly improves the look. However - fitting involves disconnecting the feed to the instrument panel. When reconnecting the display appeared tho the ignition was off. All works OK except the service indicator is now indicating a service is due even tho the first service was done recently.
Looked at handbook. It says that if the battery is disconnected the computer loses track of the date and service indication maybe incorrect. '.....if you want to have the date set consult a specialist workshop preferably an authorised Motorrad dealer.'
Pretty annoying if you want to disconnect the battery for charging. (though the TT cover comes with a power socket I wired directly to the battery)
Anyone know how to set the date without going to a Motorrad dealer?
EmmettC
Guest
The same thing happened to me when I was connecting my heated vest to the battery, I took it back to the dealer and they reset it in 2 minutes, but they had to hook it up to their computer thingy to do it.
Kinda silly really, putting the battery in a nice accessable place and then making it so you can't disconnect it???????
Kinda silly really, putting the battery in a nice accessable place and then making it so you can't disconnect it???????
