► Radiator top hose failures

[Micky]

Mine was the same, thought I'd cured it by putting a jubilee clip round in place of the spring clamp fitted as standard. It still crept...

The hose isn't too short, it has a certain curvature, so it's not pulled tight by any means!

The black coating of the water pump housing is almost like teflon, so when the hose had 'crept' I cut a 1/8" strip of abrasive strip and removed a 1/8" strip of the black coating on the stub. It only took a couple of wipes with the abrasive strip to take the coating off and show the alloy... two or three drops of superglue, pulled the hose back over it and in to place and retightened the jubilee clip. Sorted... no more problems...

But then I've only done a hundred miles since

Will let ya know

 

[Tim Cullis]

My radiator hose came off on the M25 and I ended up being trucked back home. I've just stuck a 30mm jubilee clip on the radiator hose, per Elvie's pic above. There seemed to be quite a bit of fluid loss when the hose came off but the level in the coolant tank has hardly moved.

I ran the engine for a while, until the radiator fan came on, but the level is still fairly high. I'm worried there might be an airlock, can anyone advise?

Tim

Watch the temp gauge on the display?

I think the manual says to check the coolant level when on the centre stand and view from the front. Maybe it looks like there is less/more in there from the side?

Hi Tim... mine kept easing off so, so t'other day, when it had moved quite a bit I used a very thin strip of emery cloth and put a 'band' round the stub that was back to alloy. The black coating is very thin and a bit like teflon

I put a few spots of superglue on the alloy and pulled the hose back over it and tightened the jubilee clip... now sorted I hope

Any air lock, when the engine reaches full temperature, the radiator cap should open and allow water in the reservoir to fill the space... so to speak!

To be sure, when the engine is totally cold, take the side panel off and take the radiator filler cap off (it's very tight, has to go over securing lugs) and top up the radiator to the top. Note that when you take the cap off the water in the reservoir will run in to the radiator and fill totally anyway (mine did) replace the cap quickly and top up the reservoir.

When I'd run the engine, I'd waited until the fan started to make sure it was reasonably hot and that the thermostat would be open, but the coolant level in the header tank was unchanged.

I had loosened the radiator cap earlier but when coolant started to come out (it's lower than the header tank), I quickly tightened it again.

This time I took the radiator cap right off. There were extended gurgling noises and the header tank drained right down. So I'm now feeling a bit more confident about taking the bike out on the road again. I've topped the header up again.

Thanks Micky
Tim

PS: I've taken some pics of the pipe stub coming from the engine and there's a flange on one side, but not the other.

 

[jimbob59]

Only 300 miles here, but no issues so far. At my 600 mile service I'm gonna ask mechanic about other stuff he has "learned" about these bikes so far... including hoses...

At first sign of trouble I will try to replace my spring clamps with Jubilee clamps (we call they worm-gear clamps on the yank side of the pond) and do it without having to open up the coolant system.

I've been casually looking for some black clamps instead of the typical chrome plate but have not located any yet...
If I don't find any there is always the rattle-can

Jim

 

[Micky]

My modification as per post #23 seems to be working OK...

When the hose has moved forward just clean an 1/8" strip of the black coating off, back to alloy, two or three drops of superglue and pull the hose back in to position and secure with a jubilee clip. Done about 500 miles now since and it hasn't moved a fraction

Jimbob59 The hose doesn't appear to want to start migrating until you have a thousand miles or so on the clock... so keep an eye on it

Yup mine didn't start slipping till about 2500kms.

Micky,
Was the superglue used to hold the hose in place? Any issues in future if the hose has to come off for whatever maintenance/repair reasons?
Cheers

Yup Blackie... superglue used to hold the hose in place, but with plenty of area without superglue for normal fit. ie the superglue was only on a very narrow 1/8" strip where the alloy had been revealed. I reckon if I have to remove the hose a good twist will probably do the job

Could this be a little more serious? Went in for a coolant leak. Needs a couple of parts - non in the world apparently may be ready in 2 to 3 weeks ...surely not a for a the want of a jubilee clip.

Whilst waiting for replacement bike at BMW Battersea, service take a call from someone who has put there bike it with a coolant leak problem, "we'll get back to you with a prognosis." At the end of the call i said to the chap not an F800GS yes he says!

What is happening? I was so delighted when the blog started about being positive about the f800gs, now a little worried. BTW had done 3750 on the bike. Now on a loaned f800st and feel like a trussed up chicken!

Ian

Ian... the jubilee clip on its own isn't the answer. Mine still 'crept' and tried to open the jubilee clip making it tapered if you know what I mean. BMW's answer is to roughen up the black on the stub for more grip!

I pre-empted that by removing a strip of the black and used superglue... sorted

 

[samuelsnow]

what size jubilee clips are required? Im off for 3000mile trip end of the month so want to get some just incase...

Read post 31
by Tim First line after m25
30mm that's for 650 cannot seeing it being different for 800

i'm off around ireland tomorrow with some mates and have 'jubileed' every damn hose on there.

the first hose that went was fixed by hurst bmw, but it slid off again 2 days later. so, got a range of clips, slid back the standard crappy bmw spring clips (which may look better, but are about as useful as an elastic band) and banged on a jubilee clip followed by backing it up with the spring clip. it did the trick. i've done the same with the rest of them now.

the long and the 'short' of it is, the hoses are too short and creep under pressure. to be quite honest, i'm getting a bit pissed at my bike. i'll post the other maladies in the 'snag' list...one of which is a leaking rocker gasket

 

[billynomates]

2 broke down in Wales the weekend I was there one in my group which had to be picked up the other caught in time and repaired.
ian

 

[Argonaught]

My bike is going into the dealers on Saturday to have a new top hose fitted, i've been lead to believe this is a newly developed part to replace what is obviously a deficient original.

I'll try to get the part number & post it up hare at the weekend.

If this does turn out to be a new part then we should all be hasseling our dealers for a replacement.

Say NO to the jubliee...

 

[samuelsnow]

Asked my local dealer. He had not had word from BMW directly although he did say that a recovery guy had picked a bike up with a leaking radiator and had reported that part of the radiator/ hosing looked like it had been "manufactured incorrectly"??? The plot thickens!

 

[Tim Cullis]

The metal tube onto which the radiator hose is pushed has a small flange (highlighted in red) on a section of the righthand part of the tube.

Unfortunately this is partially obscured in the first photo below by the hose. Note to self: check pics before reassembling next time!

If this flange extended all the way round the tube it would provide something for the BMW clip to hold onto, but it doesn't and you can clearly see from the markings on the radiator hose that the clip become skewed, and then just slips off.

The other thing I don't understand is the way the metal tube has been cut at an angle which just encourages this slippage to happen. I'm no mechanic but I can recognise a situation waiting to happen.

Tim

 

[Navaho]

It certainly makes sense that the problem may be with the design of the nipple on the water pump, especially since the same hose clamps are holding tight in other areas. I have 1000 miles on my bike and no leaks..........................yet.

 

[twisticles]

Erm...daft question...

Everytime I try to sneak the hose back on it squirts coolant...do I need to bleed it or something?!?

T:

I would open ... or maybe just crack the cap on the top of the radiator.
Since it has an overflow bottle it is a semi-closed system.

Jim

Twisticles, see post #22

Tim

 

[jarax]

do not repair the hose by yourself, it is a known bug of BMW, my dealer said, that the material BMW used for hoses is weak, so thay will change it for some new armored ones for free.

 

[everywherevirtually]

mine too!

I've just noticed coolant all over the engine casing. I'm glad this happened today as it's booked in for it's 6000 miles service on Friday morning.

 

[everywherevirtually]

my bike was in for a 6000 mile service at Williams BMW in Manchester today. The pipe had started to slide off on Wednesday night and so today I limped in to get it put on. I told the technician that it required a jubilee clip. He was not convinced that it had worked loose just by vibration.

He seemed to think that it was a pressure issue that forced it off. He said you could use a jubilee clip but then that potentially moves the pressure and problem to somewhere else. He said the radiator cap should lift and release the pressure but if this was not happening then it would cause issue elsewhere.

He said the headstock was not loose but the brake callipers moved around a lot which is just the way they are designed. Apart from that all was well. I had the software upgrade which should rectify the fuel gauge issues and the stalling.

now I'm off to the TT event in South Wales

 

[blackie]

I'd agree with the pressure diagnoses as it seems that the hose seems to swell up. Did the mech say if BMW has a fix for this?

 

[jimbob59]

my bike was in for a 6000 mile service at Williams BMW in Manchester today. The pipe had started to slide off on Wednesday night and so today I limped in to get it put on. I told the technician that it required a jubilee clip. He was not convinced that it had worked loose just by vibration.

He seemed to think that it was a pressure issue that forced it off. He said you could use a jubilee clip but then that potentially moves the pressure and problem to somewhere else. He said the radiator cap should lift and release the pressure but if this was not happening then it would cause issue elsewhere.

He said the headstock was not loose but the brake callipers moved around a lot which is just the way they are designed. Apart from that all was well. I had the software upgrade which should rectify the fuel gauge issues and the stalling.

now I'm off to the TT event in South Wales

EWV:

Do you know what version of the software you will be getting?
12.0 or ??? (12.0 is the latest I am aware of...)


On the "excess pressure" thing ... It sure seems like that could be the issue...

Back in the dark ages when I was a mechanic, we had a small handheld tester for radiator caps wherein they could be quickly tested to see if the relief setting was to specification.

Short of the radiator cap being defective (or perhaps not defective but not a good pressure match to the bike) I'm not sure what else could be "adjusted" ...

Jim

 

[Micky]

The black coating of the water pump housing is almost like teflon, so when the hose had 'crept' I cut a 1/8" strip of abrasive strip and removed a 1/8" strip of the black coating on the stub. It only took a couple of wipes with the abrasive strip to take the coating off and show the alloy... two or three drops of superglue, pulled the hose back over it and in to place and retightened the jubilee clip. Sorted... no more problems...

But then I've only done a hundred miles since

Will let ya know

Now done a couple of thousand miles since this mod... it hasn't moved

Just back from the Eifel's, Morocco next week, then Scotland... can't stop got to do mi washing and pack again

 

[F650Dakar_Norway]

My upper radiator hose almost came loose today. Mileage 10100km.
10000km service is almost due (at 11000km ) and I'll have it fixed under warranty.

I noticed considerable coolant seepage from the waterpump end of it, coolant at my right leg and -boot and had to take off the starboard side cover to gain access and push the hose back and re-fasten the hose clamp. I chose to secure the hose further with zip-ties pending the upcoming service. I spoke with my BMW mechanic on the phone and on his advice refilled with standard premixed Statoil coolant.

This is a rather serious problem and I cannot understand why BMW opted for such a bad clamp/hose combo. I was just lucky this happened near my workplace and the nearby petrol station. The coolant expansion chamber was as good as dry and I had to top it up to replace lost fluid.

 

[everywherevirtually]

Whilst in London yesterday

Mine did it again yesterday. I was overnighting in London and didn't spot at night but in the daylight I saw my turquoise friend seeping all over the place again.

I'm going to have to take the side panel off as I cant get enough purchase on the hose to shove it back on. I'm off to BMW to get a jubilee clip now. Does anyone have any experience of taking the side panels off? Is it a hard / long job

cheers in advance

Jonathan

 

[F650Dakar_Norway]

I'm going to have to take the side panel off as I cant get enough purchase on the hose to shove it back on. I'm off to BMW to get a jubilee clip now. Does anyone have any experience of taking the side panels off? Is it a hard / long job

Take the torx screwdriver attached under the seat and just go for it. I don't remember the exact amount of torx screws to loosen, but just look carefully under the beak and along the starboard radiator shroud until you find all attachment screws. It's basically a 30 min job, depending on your speed. Just carefully jiggle the side cover off after removing all necessary screws - adjust water hose - attach new clamp - refit side cover and ditto torx screws.

Coolant refill:
Top up between Max and Min marks on the expansion container and refill after a day or two when the air bubbles have disappeared gradually. My leakage was quite serious and required a substantial refill.

If filled to the max after this operation the expansion container will squirt overflowing coolant up through its ventilated cap until air bubbles have exited the coolant flow. Beware the vertical squirt of hot coolant from the expansion container cap safety hole if you're in a traffic jam and the fan starts. Don't ask how i know that...